Top 10 Polaris 800 RMK Mods.. Dragons or Base Models

harrysmith500 said:

Haha Now I see what you are talking about..
yeah, so i'll go ahead and get rid of that foam.. that should help swirl the air around in there....
can you post up a picture of the underside of your hood so i can get an idea of what it should look like please???

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The scratches on the air plenum were a bit of a learning curve(use chemical not razor) and the flash exaggerates them, but the rest turned out really well IMO

If you already have an SLP single pipe, you really don't gain much more with a power commander. According to the recent testing at DTR there was only a couple HP gain with the slp pipe coupled with the power commander. I would save your money for something else. IMO... buy the subscription to get all the details...

Yeah, at the altitude and WFO at what the dyno was used. But what about when up at 10k ft. The value in the PC5 is in the ability to be running crisp anywhere and at any throttle opening your at. IMO I'd get the PC5 and skip the SLP. If you read the test the best SLP pipe test only made 3 to 4 hp more than the best PC5 test on the stocker 2010 build. That IMO will hardly be felt when riding.

He said he already has the slp pipe. The pc V does not stay in auto tune. Auto tune is only used to get a map then it is shut off. The positive to having the slp pipe is the broad power up top. Take a look at the torque numbers when comparing the slp pipe, pc and then pc with slp pipe. I would say if you don't have a pipe, then get the pc III or V but there are positives to having the slp pipe.

jim9006 said:

Yeah, at the altitude and WFO at what the dyno was used. But what about when up at 10k ft. The value in the PC5 is in the ability to be running crisp anywhere and at any throttle opening your at. IMO I'd get the PC5 and skip the SLP. If you read the test the best SLP pipe test only made 3 to 4 hp more than the best PC5 test on the stocker 2010 build. That IMO will hardly be felt when riding.

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For those of you worried about fouling O2 sensors take a look at this cheap fix. Summit racing sells these bung extenders and plugs. I simply welded a bracket to the extender that I riveted to the pipe. When the O2 sensor is in use I put the spare plug in the spare extender. After my initial tune or any changes of the day there is no reason to leave the sensor in the exhaust so I put the live sensor in the spare extender "on" the pipe and the spare plug in the sensor mount "in" the pipe. Hope that makes sense. EW



Spare extender (holder) holding the spare plug





Seems to me that once dialed I hardly ever need the sensor in the pipe. Seems to be lasting OK so far. Second season on the same sensor coming up.

EricW said:

For those of you worried about fouling O2 sensors take a look at this cheap fix. Summit racing sells these bung extenders and plugs. I simply welded a bracket to the extender that I riveted to the pipe. When the O2 sensor is in use I put the spare plug in the spare extender. After my initial tune or any changes of the day there is no reason to leave the sensor in the exhaust so I put the live sensor in the spare extender "on" the pipe and the spare plug in the sensor mount "in" the pipe. Hope that makes sense. EW

Spare extender (holder) holding the spare plug

Seems to me that once dialed I hardly ever need the sensor in the pipe. Seems to be lasting OK so far. Second season on the same sensor coming up.

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Eric W,

Neat idea on the plug and holder for the 0-2 sensor.

What's the longevity on your 0-2 sensor? And I was always told that the 0-2 sensor belongs in the FAT part of the pipe?????

Thanks

I'm running the Innovate X-16 / LC-1. If I had a do over I would be looking at the Koso dual that does O2 & EGT in one. Innnovate has been fairly trouble free, good idea to do some waterproofing on the bezel as it will get some moisture exposure no matter where you put it. It can be as simple as a plastic baggy around it, or the clear vinyl that goes over your Moto-X chest protector #, or even a marine grade enclosure, what ever your into.

My first O2 went on our 07 D7 in January of 07 with a N2o kit. It got sparatic last year so I replaced the sensor which didn't change a thing (I think the issue was moisture related in the gauge as stated above) I'm still running that old sensor in my 08 TD8. Had to call Innovate and reset the gauge. I have heard the stories of auotmotive sensors for cheap at Napa, Schucks, etc. but I have never looked to far into it since they have lasted pretty well.

As far as sensor placement, Innovate, Boondockers, and SLP all said in the 10 - 2 o'clock position in the stinger on non-turbo and same thing post turbo or in the down pipe when running boost. Just did what I was told and so far so good. EW

EricW said:

I'm running the Innovate X-16 / LC-1. If I had a do over I would be looking at the Koso dual that does O2 & EGT in one. Innnovate has been fairly trouble free, good idea to do some waterproofing on the bezel as it will get some moisture exposure no matter where you put it. It can be as simple as a plastic baggy around it, or the clear vinyl that goes over your Moto-X chest protector #, or even a marine grade enclosure, what ever your into.

My first O2 went on our 07 D7 in January of 07 with a N2o kit. It got sparatic last year so I replaced the sensor which didn't change a thing (I think the issue was moisture related in the gauge as stated above) I'm still running that old sensor in my 08 TD8. Had to call Innovate and reset the gauge. I have heard the stories of auotmotive sensors for cheap at Napa, Schucks, etc. but I have never looked to far into it since they have lasted pretty well.


As far as sensor placement, Innovate, Boondockers, and SLP all said in the 10 - 2 o'clock position in the stinger on non-turbo and same thing post turbo or in the down pipe when running boost. Just did what I was told and so far so good. EW

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Eric,

Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated. Interestingly it was Dustin @ SLP that insisted the FAT part of the pipe location for the O-2 sensor, ditto on the 10:00/2:00 position, not looking to debate, just want to get it right the first time, looking to install the PC-5/Autotune setup on my D-7, (no turbo)

It would be easier for me to copy your 0-2 location, wouldn't have to mess with the heat shield.

Better do a little more checking around. Maybe Jack S at Carl's, MT Horse on here might have some inside info or just start a thread in this forum. I know there are tons out there, might want to see how guys chime in with location compared to dependability. Good luck man. EW

the feethooker install was fairly simply, the hardest part was poping the rivets by hand cause i lent my air gun out and still havent got it back.

The hydro dip guy that meathooker is using was really aggressive to get Snowmobile Better Boards to use his coating. His buddy bought a set at the Boise Snow Show and they finished them in a carbon fiber look. The process gives a cool custom appearance but like I told him we have to actually TEST (field and lab) our products and finishes prior to selling and releasing them to the general public. WHAT IF THE FINISH DOESN'T HOLD UP TO THE INCREDIBLE ABUSE THAT RUNNING BOARD INSERTS TAKE? What if the finish doesn't shed snow as good as our tradional coating? If the process proves to be superior to our finish for durability and performance you can bet your last dollar that we will offer that finish or at least make it an option for Better Boards customers.

Hey Kraven or anyone else, Concerning the Power Commander V. Does the A/F sensor have any effect on the state of tune throughout the RPM band or is it simply a "gauge" for the operator to make manual adjustments? It sounds like the system is a set up and run it process and the A/F does not compensate fuel and timing. If that is the case how much experience do you have in the variance of altitude and air density before a different map must be installed? On the turbo setups that I've been around in the field it was fairly difficult to trust and dial to get a really finite setup. With EGT's I can see and tell exactly what is going on at any given RPM and timed duration of the event so for me it was way easier to get a "read" on what is going on but my experience with A/F is very limited. If things are basically a set it and forget it system while staying within a given parameter then I think running an EGT instrument in combination to the PCV controller makes a ton of sense. It would also work as a visual alarm if a guy wants to use the autotune. It's my understanding that the 2010 electronics/head/ now available that everyone with an 800 should have installed with the update will have a real working detonation sensor that will throw things into limp mode and save burndowns like the early 2000 stuff did on the old VES systems. That would be very cool and help us all safely dial in or fine tune better performance into the complete system and I for one will be on board. I'll run my Digatron DT 54 datalogger with the system for now but down the road Dyno Tech says that they will have more input channels tied into their instrument so it's all in one. It's weird that the old tried and true EGT plug reading system is to this day the superior tuning and engine management identification tool for our application. (lucky for me!)

Can someone explain to me, what the Power Commander V can do or doesnt do? Seems like there is a bunch of different reports here.

Almost seems like the days of changing jets was easier...