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Must have parts once turbo added??

R

Rudy149

Member
Feb 26, 2014
25
13
3
Not sure if this subject had been beat too death sorry if it has.
So I just added a sidekick turbo to my axys and have adjustable weights and ordered some venting for it and I know there has to be some more must have parts once running a turbo any input would be appreciated. Thanks


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Dazzler

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Oct 24, 2009
267
145
43
Cochrane Ab
Not sure if this subject had been beat too death sorry if it has.
So I just added a sidekick turbo to my axys and have adjustable weights and ordered some venting for it and I know there has to be some more must have parts once running a turbo any input would be appreciated. Thanks


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Other than balls, the only issue I've had with the sidekick on my Axy is the exhaust is close to the pull rope and melted the rope about 4-6" from the handle.. :)
 
2
Jul 22, 2009
499
76
28
I'm running Silber but same conversation anyway... I haven't even added any venting and I'm beyond impressed with how pull & go it's been. I heat taped the coolant bottle to be safe along with the oil & coolant lines that run to the turbo. Otherwise that's it. I carry and extra belt (obviously) and drive belt with the tools but haven't had to add either yet. Knock on wood but I think all (or most) of the turbo MFRs really have these kits perfected.

It's worth checking your track to make sure it's fairly tight too to prevent any ratcheting.
 

Ron Burgandy

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Dec 21, 2012
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I don't have a turbo but have talked to quite a few owners, sounds like adding a blowhole substantially prolongs belt life.
 
S
Oct 4, 2016
695
209
43
north pole alaska
when I put mine on I figured at a minim I needed clutching /venting/SLP torque arm and tether but I also added ice adage rail stiffeners {I walk on the tail a lot and didn't want the rails bending} avaid drivers and anti stab kit as I fought retching when it was NA. you will find lots of nay-sayers that will tell you things like get a "TOOL KIT" but most of them haven't tried a tuneless turbo! I have hade zero problems sense the silber turbo and it was installed right after break-in always starts and idles never stalls when I hit reverse to my amazement still haven't replaced a plug still on the original belt and no clutch rebuilds but I am do for some springs and the best part is that I make all the NA sleds look like a kids toy! if you don't like to wheelie you better consider a ARK system, aftermarket skid or some lock outs for the rear skid I have found it hard to keep the front down!
 

Dazzler

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Oct 24, 2009
267
145
43
Cochrane Ab
when I put mine on I figured at a minim I needed clutching /venting/SLP torque arm and tether but I also added ice adage rail stiffeners {I walk on the tail a lot and didn't want the rails bending} avaid drivers and anti stab kit as I fought retching when it was NA. you will find lots of nay-sayers that will tell you things like get a "TOOL KIT" but most of them haven't tried a tuneless turbo! I have hade zero problems sense the silber turbo and it was installed right after break-in always starts and idles never stalls when I hit reverse to my amazement still haven't replaced a plug still on the original belt and no clutch rebuilds but I am do for some springs and the best part is that I make all the NA sleds look like a kids toy! if you don't like to wheelie you better consider a ARK system, aftermarket skid or some lock outs for the rear skid I have found it hard to keep the front down!

Same here. I packed a few thinks, extra boot clamps, spare exhaust donut, etc. and have not needed any repairs or had any issues that could not wait till back home since my first turboed sled in 2011. I've always run boondocker turbo's (4 so far since 2011) and I thaw my sleds out after every trip to grease skid, and check belts etc.
I do carry, quick drive belt, drive belt, few tools, exhaust donut (getting old), spark plugs, spare exhaust springs, exhaust power valve diaphragm, although you don't have to change them in the field if running boost, they will still make enough power to get back to truck.
The only real issue I've had mechanically is the pull start rope, make sure you carry your strap for wrapping around clutch for starting.

Hope this helps
 
J

JJ_0909

ACCOUNT CLOSED
Nov 16, 2009
1,023
1,033
113
I monitor the customer service lines at Silber from time to time. I'm also incredibly neurotic.

The Silber kit and the Sidekick kit are both designed to be as user friendly as possible (yes, I gave a compliment to the competition!). Point is, you aren't supposed to need a lot to make it work. Antistab, torque arm limiters, etc etc are nice, but really if your boost levels are reasonable you will likely not need these.

The **most important thing** is your sled is in proper working order prior to putting the kit on. If you have anything going on, dirty clutches, worn motor mounts, old exhaust donuts, TPS out of spec, dirty exhaust valves etc it'll be extra bad with a turbo! Make sure this is spot on first!!!

As far as what to carry or what to add, here is my $0.02.

1) A lot of this depends on boost levels. I can tell you first hand things get worn a lot less at 5psi (at 8000 feet) than 7 or 10 psi. You may want to consider different drivers/antistab at 10 psi. You do not need this at 5psi (in the mountains)

2) Carry extra exhaust springs. One pops off and it can prematurely end a day - especially if you can't find it and reattach it! (edit: I do not suggest you ride with a spring jingling around under your hood! Still a good idea to carry them as they can stretch and wear out - or you drop one after you find one in the snow. Etc etc.)

3) Throw some high temp silicone (copper) in your trailer as well as a spare donut. I always suggest people silicone these. It can be messy but it can prolong donut light significantly.

4) Clutching. Always have a spare spring with you in the trailer. I also suggest the glide washers on the primary. Really helps with keeping the spring fresh as it prevents bind.

5) I'm yet to blow a QD belt. I don't want to tell you "don't worry about it" but yeah, if you are keeping up with your service intervals "don't worry about it".

6) Watch for fuel pump issues. Polaris actually suggests you change them at 1000 miles. I don't really think this is necessary but I have seen many fuel pumps and injectors go bad. Just something to keep in mind.

7) Relays. This is normal for NA or Turbo.

8) EGT sensor. This is the only other thing I've seen go bad commonly. There is a reason the 18s went to a new one. (if you have an 18 don't sweat this one).

9) Some will say venting, blow hole, etc etc - Personally I run a slightly steeper helix than most which seems to cure most of my belt issues (was getting about 500/belt). My $0.02 is you shouldn't need to do this.

10) Additional intake vents. Cheap. Nice for the deep days.
 
J

jim

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
1,014
635
113
Boise
Hotdogger or muffpot! Smoking all your buddies is that much more fun when you can pull a delicious burrito out of the motor compartment several times throughout the day.
 
C
Nov 21, 2010
29
3
3
34
get extraverts and clip ur hole track asap do not let it ratchet get drivers and anty stab but clipping ur track is a must with new drivers if u let is skip a few times with the power u will ruin ur track i did it then had my track as tight as possible and it still skipped because all my coards of my track were all broken. then it blew up my chain case and took out my chain case housing. also i recoment the slp torque stop
 
R

Rudy149

Member
Feb 26, 2014
25
13
3
I monitor the customer service lines at Silber from time to time. I'm also incredibly neurotic.

The Silber kit and the Sidekick kit are both designed to be as user friendly as possible (yes, I gave a compliment to the competition!). Point is, you aren't supposed to need a lot to make it work. Antistab, torque arm limiters, etc etc are nice, but really if your boost levels are reasonable you will likely not need these.

The **most important thing** is your sled is in proper working order prior to putting the kit on. If you have anything going on, dirty clutches, worn motor mounts, old exhaust donuts, TPS out of spec, dirty exhaust valves etc it'll be extra bad with a turbo! Make sure this is spot on first!!!

As far as what to carry or what to add, here is my $0.02.

1) A lot of this depends on boost levels. I can tell you first hand things get worn a lot less at 5psi (at 8000 feet) than 7 or 10 psi. You may want to consider different drivers/antistab at 10 psi. You do not need this at 5psi (in the mountains)

2) Carry extra exhaust springs. One pops off and it can prematurely end a day - especially if you can't find it and reattach it! (edit: I do not suggest you ride with a spring jingling around under your hood! Still a good idea to carry them as they can stretch and wear out - or you drop one after you find one in the snow. Etc etc.)

3) Throw some high temp silicone (copper) in your trailer as well as a spare donut. I always suggest people silicone these. It can be messy but it can prolong donut light significantly.

4) Clutching. Always have a spare spring with you in the trailer. I also suggest the glide washers on the primary. Really helps with keeping the spring fresh as it prevents bind.

5) I'm yet to blow a QD belt. I don't want to tell you "don't worry about it" but yeah, if you are keeping up with your service intervals "don't worry about it".

6) Watch for fuel pump issues. Polaris actually suggests you change them at 1000 miles. I don't really think this is necessary but I have seen many fuel pumps and injectors go bad. Just something to keep in mind.

7) Relays. This is normal for NA or Turbo.

8) EGT sensor. This is the only other thing I've seen go bad commonly. There is a reason the 18s went to a new one. (if you have an 18 don't sweat this one).

9) Some will say venting, blow hole, etc etc - Personally I run a slightly steeper helix than most which seems to cure most of my belt issues (was getting about 500/belt). My $0.02 is you shouldn't need to do this.

10) Additional intake vents. Cheap. Nice for the deep days.



Thanks that’s a solid write up I’m looking into a clutch kit (with extra springs) that’s been tested out here’s and cure the belt issues like you say it’s supposed to run unreal I got some venting installed from 2 kool air vents clean product. I install slp intake vents for the deep day. I have extra springs and donuts already so I got that covered. I’ve got 3” with chain case but geared down so don’t need quick drive belt (also will carry stock gears and chain in trailer).


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K
Mar 11, 2016
5
4
3
I had the same thing happen to the starter rope. I got a small pulley and ran the starter rope through it, pulled it back away from the exhaust with a small spring and zip ties. I also wrapped the exhaust with fiberglass heat wrap. No issues since then.
 
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