S
will the tps possibly cause sled to be rich all through rpms. if its out ?
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2011 pro tps
- Thread starter Sledneck_1987
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S
i understand that the injectors are problems but it randomly fouls either plug. and occasionally stalls at idle and when pull plugs both are soaked with fuel. wouldn't injectors cause only one cylinder to be rich ?
Most likely yes...
Very well could be your TPS, those further details point more towards a TPS for sure. Pretty simple to check, set, change etc if you have the tools ya need.
Try that and see what ya find, but it could be a number of things. Reeds, compression, plug wires etc... Fun times!
Very well could be your TPS, those further details point more towards a TPS for sure. Pretty simple to check, set, change etc if you have the tools ya need.
Try that and see what ya find, but it could be a number of things. Reeds, compression, plug wires etc... Fun times!
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S
how do i check the fps ?
S
cool thanks.
Here's one to read thru for info...
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=287858&highlight=Testing+tps
Here's another...
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=361024&highlight=Testing+tps
I prefer/recommend using a good car battery and powering the ECM, vs using a 5volt power supply. Using a battery to power it, the ECM is then actually powering things up just the way it would be as if it were running. You will need a good quality volt meter, and if you're careful, you can use a paper clip to back probe the ECM plug for testing. (Hammer/file end of it to smooth point) Their is also a unused white/clear plug that hangs down above the head, you can test the reference voltage at this plug on the red/white wire (one less spot you'd have to back probe the ECM)
This is to test the base setting and idle setting...
You will also need to sweep test the TPS to determine if it has any dead/bad spots in it. Using an analog meter...
If ya don't have the tools, should only take dealer half hr or so to test it, problem is, a lot of the times, they'll just plug in the polaris software and check it, and may not check the base setting.
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=287858&highlight=Testing+tps
Here's another...
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=361024&highlight=Testing+tps
I prefer/recommend using a good car battery and powering the ECM, vs using a 5volt power supply. Using a battery to power it, the ECM is then actually powering things up just the way it would be as if it were running. You will need a good quality volt meter, and if you're careful, you can use a paper clip to back probe the ECM plug for testing. (Hammer/file end of it to smooth point) Their is also a unused white/clear plug that hangs down above the head, you can test the reference voltage at this plug on the red/white wire (one less spot you'd have to back probe the ECM)
This is to test the base setting and idle setting...
You will also need to sweep test the TPS to determine if it has any dead/bad spots in it. Using an analog meter...
If ya don't have the tools, should only take dealer half hr or so to test it, problem is, a lot of the times, they'll just plug in the polaris software and check it, and may not check the base setting.
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S
can you back probe the connector when sled is running to see if its out ? and if it i then do the adjustments ?
In theory you could, but the only reading you could get, would be the idle setting voltage. Everything else could be way off...
In order to get it right, the base setting needs verified/set. And this has to be done with throttle cable disconnected, and the idle set screw backed off. Doing this, the sled will just die, and thus, requires external power-up to do these tests properly.
Follow?
In order to get it right, the base setting needs verified/set. And this has to be done with throttle cable disconnected, and the idle set screw backed off. Doing this, the sled will just die, and thus, requires external power-up to do these tests properly.
Follow?
S
i did both test idle was .97v and closed was .74v not out that much but could that be enough to cause a issue ?
Most likely, it's .040v above specs on base, and .03v above on idle. in theory you're throttle plates would be open almost the correct amount, if you go by math, but this is with the base setting off in the first place, over 5% off, if I'm figuring right tonight.
I set mine at .700 base, and .940idle
What did you get for a reference voltage on the red/white wire?
I set mine at .700 base, and .940idle
What did you get for a reference voltage on the red/white wire?
Last edited:
S
5.00v
S
thats back probing at ecm connector
S
i adjusted it, ill take for a ride tomorrow after work and see. thanks
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