850/800 secondary clutch offset

ZRP Engineering

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• Jan 25, 2019

• #21

tdbaugha said:

These are the belt witness marks. They should be the same on both sides of the belt.

Click to expand...

What is the proper way to read this mark?
My belt shows the marks being slightly higher on the outside of the belt vs the inside (motor side)

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

TRS

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Cody, WY

• Jan 25, 2019

• #22

ZRP Engineering said:

What is the proper way to read this mark?
My belt shows the marks being slightly higher on the outside of the belt vs the inside (motor side)

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

What is your base measurement now? You will need to start there. You could be .100” out.
General rule, needs to come out.

 

Last edited: Jan 25, 2019

Killer Time Racing

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• Jan 26, 2019

• #23

Tewstroke said:

I'll just keep changing the inserts each year then.
Who has the best price?

Is there any advantage with using PTO inserts on the mag side as well?

Also, did Northstar Rick offer harder durometer motor mount rubbers?

Click to expand...

That's 800 and I have a full set of brand new here with torque arm if anyone is going to the dealer ..FS!

 

TRS

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Cody, WY

• Jan 26, 2019

• #24

Here are your pics. It’s a PRO but you’ll get the idea.

 

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live2beel

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• Jan 26, 2019

• #25

Is the PRO 2.60"?

 

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sledhead9825

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• Feb 21, 2019

• #26

Tony
Do you now how much you add to the measurement for the electric start ring gear?
Thanks

 

TRS

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Cody, WY

• Feb 21, 2019

• #27

sledhead9825 said:

Tony
Do you now how much you add to the measurement for the electric start ring gear?
Thanks

Click to expand...

No, I don’t. Darrell was working on it and I don’t know if he figured it out. If I can borrow one I’ll know. Not many e starts here.

 

tdorval

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• Feb 21, 2019

• #28

Went down to Tony’s last night to set alignment and the belt to sheave on the primary. I believe mine was almost .200 out, hopefully it helps with belt life! Will update after I get some miles back on it.

Thanks Tony!

 

Wheel House Motorsports

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• Feb 21, 2019

• #29

OEM spec had my sled at the far outboard limit of spec. I was getting sub 100 miles per belt.

Moved out Per tonys spec as baseline and then using witness marks after first ride as reference shimmed .020" farther out for a total of .140" farther out then stock setup. My sled now is wearing belts perfectly evenly and im seeing WAY less clutch heat and belt wear. 200 miles on current belt and belt is looking awesome.

 

ewanaburner

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• Feb 21, 2019

• #30

Tony,
does that measurement change with the 47C belt
my thought would be to add .013 to those measurements for the wider belt

 

damx

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• Feb 21, 2019

• #31

So if the witness mark is bigger on the inside or engine side, the secondary needs to come out some more ?

 

Last edited: Feb 21, 2019

TRS

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Cody, WY

• Feb 21, 2019

• #32

ewanaburner said:

Tony,
does that measurement change with the 47C belt
my thought would be to add .013 to those measurements for the wider belt

Click to expand...

The 47c will narrow up fairly quick. It’s a 28* belt and sheaves are 13.2-13.5*.
I’ll give you a call tomorrow.

 

TRS

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Cody, WY

• Feb 21, 2019

• #33

damx said:

So if the witness mark is bigger on the inside or engine side, the secondary needs to come out some more ?

Click to expand...

Yes sir.

 

Scott

Scott Stiegler

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• Feb 22, 2019

• #34

I got 260 miles on my first belt. I am about 50 miles into belt #2.
I'd better check my alignment.

 

damx

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• Feb 23, 2019

• #35

Tony do you measure from the outside shiv of the secondary to front side of the key stock ? If so I need to come 0.088" out. Thanks

 

TRS

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Cody, WY

• Feb 23, 2019

• #36

damx said:

Tony do you measure from the outside shiv of the secondary to front side of the key stock ? If so I need to come 0.088" out. Thanks

Click to expand...

Yes sir.

 

TRS

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Cody, WY

• Feb 23, 2019

• #37

Bulletin
I found an exception today. I was fighting the 2.57” measurement. Ended up at 2.51”. Finally put my 191 bar on it. Lead in was inside of spec. So please watch your witness marks closely to get it adjusted for your sled.

 

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prox660

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• Mar 4, 2019

• #38

TJ correct, if you're not using the fixed sheaves, the offset distance is going to vary with the position of the belt width adjustment as it moves the inside secondary sheave.

 

2XM3

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• Mar 6, 2019

• #39

Whats the opinion of a LOT of "float" ?? Also anyone get the ninja tool on ebay ?? Right now using the .250 stock method i'm like .213 off, and have good belt life at 10 psi boost ??

QUOTE : below



we don't check adjust clutch alignment anymore. we float all Polaris driven clutches as much as possible. meaning only leaving shim's/washers behind the driven so it doesn't hit anything. remove the spring from the driven and put it back together and back on the shaft. open it up all the way and spin it to see how close it comes to grease fittings etc. always leave just one washer. you want .60 of float inward and outward from it being aligned. so minimum of .120 of float. up to .250 we run .250 on our pro-stock 600. it turns 10,500 rpm's.

 

Last edited: Mar 6, 2019

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matchrocket

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• Mar 10, 2019

• #40

TRS said:

Remove your belt and bridge the key stock across the backside of your primary. With your caliper measure from the key stock to the outside leading edge of your secondary. The measurement we have found that works is:
850. 2.57”
800. 2.60.

Click to expand...

16" 800 w/o Electric Start. Witness marks on my (new gates) belt are (none) on the motor side, ~.125" on panel side.

I took a measurement and I am more than .25" SHORT of your recommended amount for the 800. What am I missing?

Measuring:

outside (panel side) of bar stock to the outside face of secondary (Panel side), clutch pushed in, no belt installed (Shouldn't matter).

NO spaces installed on the secondary between bearing and clutch except the required one from the factory (washer).

Last gates belt lasted 200 miles before it exploded, full discloser, I folded it. Sled down RPM currently. (7900 / 8000)