Installing Timbersled Barkbuster Front and Float 2s ????

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rmk800rider

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Dec 2, 2001

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Shelley, ID

• Dec 25, 2009

• #1

I'm in the process of installing the timbersled barkbuster front end and fox float 2's on mine and my brothers 2010 Dragons. I have a couple questions hopefully someone can help me out with.

1. How much air pressure would be a good starting point for the front shocks. The factory swaybar will still be used.

2. When adjusting the caster, I'm putting a level on each ski like it states in the instructions then adjusting the upper ball joint. To get the skis level, the RH ball joint is only screwed out a few turns and showing about 1/8" of threads while the LH balljoint is screwed out quite a few turns and is showing 3/4" of threads. Does this sound right? I would think they would be closer the same.

3. Any other tricks or tips for setting caster and ski alignment?

Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions.

 

AKSNOWRIDER

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Dec 25, 2007

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anchorage

• Dec 25, 2009

• #2

rmk800rider said:

I'm in the process of installing the timbersled barkbuster front end and fox float 2's on mine and my brothers 2010 Dragons. I have a couple questions hopefully someone can help me out with.

1. How much air pressure would be a good starting point for the front shocks. The factory swaybar will still be used.

2. When adjusting the caster, I'm putting a level on each ski like it states in the instructions then adjusting the upper ball joint. To get the skis level, the RH ball joint is only screwed out a few turns and showing about 1/8" of threads while the LH balljoint is screwed out quite a few turns and is showing 3/4" of threads. Does this sound right? I would think they would be closer the same.

3. Any other tricks or tips for setting caster and ski alignment?

Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions.

Click to expand...

#1..try 65-70 psi to start..I have ran as low as 55 pds but it is pretty squirrly...
#2...you should center them both up to start(will have to do the same with the tie rods as well while keeping the bars centered)..it is quite a bit of work but better job when done....

 

Z

zr600

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Oct 26, 2001

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Bismarck ND

• Dec 25, 2009

• #3

Did you weight the bark buster front end and the stock stuff how much weight did you actually save just wondering?

 

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rmk800rider

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Shelley, ID

• Dec 25, 2009

• #4

I didn't weigh the stock parts to compare.

 

KAWGRN

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• Dec 25, 2009

• #5

put a level on the tunnel if the sled is slightly tipped one side to another the upper rod end on the front will be way off + get the front as level side to side witht the frot shocks as yoy can find a spot to measure the front Arms at the bulkhead to level the front end out then adjust,, I have a 5 psi difference in the friont shocks to level mine out

 

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ghostwhite

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• Dec 25, 2009

• #6

How do you adjust caster on the stock components or holz spindles? I know how to do camber and toe-in but not caster.

 

KAWGRN

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• Dec 25, 2009

• #7

Im shure he ment camber as the only caster adjustment would be with Timbers other style spindel

 

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ghostwhite

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• Dec 25, 2009

• #8

KAWGRN said:

Im shure he ment camber as the only caster adjustment would be with Timbers other style spindel

Click to expand...

Thats what I thought. So now I wonder why the barkbusters have to be adjusted while on the ground when stock and holz are measured with the sled in the air, via a 3/8ths in rod in the spindle's ski bolthole suspended across and measured off the opposite spindle..... I'm just curious, I might be getting the barkbusters

 

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rmk800rider

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Dec 2, 2001

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Shelley, ID

• Dec 25, 2009

• #9

Thanks for the replies, and yeah I meant camber. I'll try to level the sled with the shocks tomorrow and then adjust from there. Where would a guy purchase a 3/8" straight bar from, this sounds like a much better idea to get everything in line.

 

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ghostwhite

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• Dec 25, 2009

• #10

I bought mine at a local Tractor Supply Co. store. They do tools and farm equipment, check any similiar place's metal stock.

The recomendations I got with my Holz spindles is to elevate the sled. Put rod through the ski bolthole and across to directly under the opposite spindle. Camber should be set so that the rod is 2.5 to 3.0 inches below the opposite spindle. Though the skis will not be level when at ride height with this method. The barkbusters might be designed to work better with a level ski at ride height so I don't know how that might apply.