crank seal?

D

dvav

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Dec 21, 2008

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• Dec 29, 2010

• #1

99 xc 700 slp twins 151 track.
I went out riding the other day and about an hour in the ride i grenaded a belt. when the belt blew a 2 foot long strip got wrapped between the clutch and motor, looked like it was pressing on the seal after some tugging and twisting i got it out . it ran fine besides some clutching issues, today i pulled the clutch to do some work and when i look at the seal it looks like it is concave or indented and i cant remember what it looked like before but it definitely got some of the outer rubber coating on the seal rubbed off. is there any way to check for a leaky seal while the motor is out and not running.. also any one know why my plugs would come loose , happened a couple times, and i just put together a new team tss04 and was wondering if i should loctite the 4 torks screws that hold the helix, thanks

 

R

retiredpop

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• Dec 30, 2010

• #2

dvav said:

99 xc 700 slp twins 151 track.
is there any way to check for a leaky seal while the motor is out and not running..

Click to expand...

I suppose you could pressurize the crankcase and spray a soapy water solution on the seal.

 

X

xTonyCRx

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Dec 10, 2009

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• Jan 9, 2011

• #3

retiredpop said:

I suppose you could pressurize the crankcase and spray a soapy water solution on the seal.

Click to expand...

I did a leak down test on mine at the start of this season and found a leaking PTO crank seal. So tore it down to replace it!

 

S

SD Coyote

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Dec 27, 2007

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Aberdeen, SD

• Jan 9, 2011

• #4

No, do not use loctite on the 4 helix screws. They can be tough enough to remove without putting any thread locker on them. Also, when removing the helix later on for cleaning/servicing, you should back off the sheave spreading bolt several turns and the helix will lift right out.

 

D

dvav

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Dec 21, 2008

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• Jan 9, 2011

• #5

thanks for the info i just put the engine back together so hopefully its all good i had 140 psi on both cyl before i tore it down, the seal was pushed in about 1/4 inch in the middle.

 

L

lognomore

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Oct 25, 2008

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• Jan 9, 2011

• #6

Check that seal!!

dvav said:

thanks for the info i just put the engine back together so hopefully its all good i had 140 psi on both cyl before i tore it down, the seal was pushed in about 1/4 inch in the middle.

Click to expand...

I would be concerned about that seal if it got distorted at all, it may have a vacuum leak now. You should really do a leak down test. A whole lot cheaper to replace seals and gaskets then to burn a cylinder from a leaking seal. You may have good compression but if it is sucking air through that seal it will lean out, causing a possible burn down of that cylinder. Can get very spendy!:frown:

 

D

dvav

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Dec 21, 2008

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• Jan 10, 2011

• #7

i put new seals in .. but for some reason the so called complete gasket kit didnt come with the reed gaskets. i hope to try it out on the weekend

 

D

dvav

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Dec 21, 2008

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• Jan 15, 2011

• #8

just finished putting it together today i tried it in the yard for about 10 mins and it seized up,so back in the shop i did a quick teardown and the crank was coming apart and rubbed the side of the casei have had the crank brake but not seperate at the rod pin but i see the other rod side the weights are not lined up like it twisted so i think that when i grenade the belt that maybe it through the crank out of wack has any one had similar problems, this sucks now i have to send it away or buy a used one

 

S

SD Coyote

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• Jan 15, 2011

• #9

If you blow a belt at high rpms, it will often times cause crank problems. It can cause the crank to no longer be true, as well as case probs in the future.