Getting power to the ground? Cheap..

what's you definition of cheap ? $20 ? $300 ?

TRS clutching will amaze you

what elevation are you running?
I would start by making sure your clutches are in good shape {clean-good bushings, cap, main and weights- rollers are not sloppy} and if you have more than 500-700 miles on the springs {primary and secondary} replace them. a lot of little things = a pore preforming sled! if you got a few $$$ you wont regret getting a clutch kit for that turbo. like anything the "turbo kits" will get you out their and going.... but like all things theirs always lots of room to improve {just because the condom works doesn't mean it fits your riding style if you know what I mean} keep the skis up robert ... and the rest wrapped up happy riding

RobertTrivanovic said:

Ive got a 2013 pro with a silber kit running about 10psi on straight AV gas. Its a 155 2.4 track, id love to put a 3" in but thats just not going to happen right now. Whats the best way to get the power to the ground? The sled rips but it just doesnt feel like 10psi the way it runs. Thinking clutching could use some love? Its the stock clutching that comes with their 2012 kit. What would you guys do? Swap springs? Weights? Move the weight to the heal or toe on the weights? Looking for some cheap things I can do to wake the sled up and get it moving! The top end pulls fast it feels like its spooling the turbo slower then it should be.

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Remember, at 10psi you are starting to "chase your tail" a bit with respect to charge temps. That turbo has to spin a lot more at higher elevation to make that level of boost (thin air = harder to make boost). Harder the turbo works, the higher the charge temps. Higher the charge temps, the "weaker" the boost.

If it were me, I'd drop to 7 and work hard to get your clutching dialed. You will lose a little up top, but overall the sled will respond better (as you are spinning more user-friendly clutching down low).

And yeah, like others said, go ahead and spend some time on your clutching. TRSs is awesome, but can take some $$$ to make it happen (and some work).

RobertTrivanovic said:

Ive got a 2013 pro with a silber kit running about 10psi on straight AV gas. Its a 155 2.4 track, id love to put a 3" in but thats just not going to happen right now. Whats the best way to get the power to the ground? The sled rips but it just doesnt feel like 10psi the way it runs. Thinking clutching could use some love? Its the stock clutching that comes with their 2012 kit. What would you guys do? Swap springs? Weights? Move the weight to the heal or toe on the weights? Looking for some cheap things I can do to wake the sled up and get it moving! The top end pulls fast it feels like its spooling the turbo slower then it should be.

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If you feel like the 2.4 is slipping to much and want to gain some traction, go for a challenger extreme 2.5 (9104M). The only thing you will give up is a tad of flotation in bottemless powder.

If you feel like the engine isn't transferring the power it's making to the snow well, I would look at swapping in a helix in the secondary with a steeper starting angle but the same finish you are running now. I don't know what the Silber kits came with for a helix. Something in the mid 50's for a starting angle will give it a great response and put the fun factor back in the on/off throttle riding. Was pretty under whelmed with my turbo's response until I changed the helix out.

There is not enough info to provide a suggestion. What rpms does the sled pull wide open under full load on the side of the hill? What is the back shift like? Is it dragging the running boards through the snow? Are your paddles too weak to create force on the snow (very likely if you run a polaris track)? Also, what is the power transfer like (does the sled stand up in a wheelie all the time)? What is your track speed under load?

If the sled is revving fine, you need to know track speed. Higher than normal track speed will require a different track since the paddles are not biting. A 3" paddle will do wonders over a poor 2.4. Wheelie problems...coupling system or longer track. Weird shifting issues and bogging...different clutching. Finally, if it is dragging the boards in the snow, you need to change suspension components or do different tuning to gain clearence. The one thing I will say is heavy clutch weight makes turbos sluggish and slow to respond. Run as little weight as possible without creating opportunities for the belt to slip.

Can you provide more detail?

Sounds like clutching a fueling. I ran the stock polaris track till I destroyed it and it would make track speed and wheelie. But when I first put my kit together I ran a dobeck/attitude controller cause it was free. I had similiar symptoms til got a better fuel controller, then made way more power at less boost. The reason I mention your clutching is 65g weights is super light for 10lbs a stocker uses 62 I was running 74-76g weights for 8-10 lbs boost don't remember my helix and springs but can check next week

I read the clutch weight part wrong. On the note of the fuel controller, I had 3 of them only 1 ran and it sounded very much like yours. I switched to boost it controller and dropped my boost by 3 lbs and made more power, hit harder and even wheelied over backwards on the right conditions. And I never did fine tune the clutching on that setup either. But there was no way I could run 10lbs without a longer track and some suspension coupling upgrades, would be pointed at the sky all day and trenching. And I got way better fuel mileage on trail crusing. Dobeck controllers leave so much on the table. Even a boondocker controller was a big upgrade too

I cannot give you a specific setup to run, but here are my initial thoughts...

The only way to fix traction/bite is with a track (not an option).

Poor fueling may add power so check your AFR (I doubt this is the issue). Two reasons 1. too lean or rich your leaving power on the table and 2. a different controller may help if yours is setup to batch fire. Sequential injection better atomizes fuel improving combustion. Liquid fuel cannot burn but it reduces combustion temps.

Weak suspension leading to trenching (I would bet on this as 1 problem). My 600T 154x2.5 would drag the running boards and soak up HP. 154" tracks tend to trench... you can't go forward if the sled cannot get up on plane. It takes more effort to plane out on a smaller track (couplers helps this). Imagine a boat not on plane...it takes a lot of power to push through the water. But, once it pops out on plane, the boat speeds up. Adding a coupler can help with a collapsing rear under load. But, it makes the sled less playful.

Slow spool can result from too aggressive of helix, too much weight, or bad weight profile. You seem to pull the weight fine given your RPM, so I don't think it is a weight issue. I would try a weight profile that is less aggressive in the transition with the same full shift. If you dont know clutching ask someone who has done it (i would bet here too). Also, if the clutches and belt are getting hot on long pulls it is slipping, which soaks up power. The remedy is different clutching or reduce boost to eliminate slippage.

Those are some initial ideas. Try clutching and adjusting your suspension, but check clutch temps first. Careful, they can burn you if they are slipping. You should be able to touch them with your hand shortly after a short to medium pull up the hill. They will be hot, so be careful.

What kind of riding do you do and what elevations do you ride at? Clutching can be a tough game to get right but I have found a setup that works awesome for me at high elevation in Wyoming and for the kind of back country riding I do. One big thing I've seen with some people clutching turbos is the helix. If you go too steep on the helix the clutching will actually up shift too fast and load the motor before it's really building boost making it feel laggy and lazy.