B
I'm just jealous some of you are riding already!
Issues with Axys aluminum a-arms
- Thread starter jhurkot
- Start date
H
I predicted this the first time I looked at an Axys. Starting to feel like they are putting a little to much emphasis on making them light while compromising durability.
Yeah these things are like butter... I hit a few things this weekend so lightly I didn't even look at my a arms until I noticed one ski was 4 inches behind the other. I'm not sure if it got progressive or all at once, but I sure as heck didn't hit anything hard enough to bend any other sled I've owned over the last 20 years. Stock up on these. On a side note I have a right side for sale and a left upper. ..
Glued was better ?
Come on man
And you guys keep buying these things.
Come on man
And you guys keep buying these things.
Uh...? Yeah polaris is the only manufacturer of anything that has ever broken ever... your stunning wisdom is real treat for all of us. I could recite all the issues I've had will all four manufacturers, but that would be a waste of all of our time except yours... please just go sit at the back of the class. C'mon
S
i just googled spagetti arms and found this thread.
now that's funny
J
https://soundcloud.com/snowest-podcast/polaris-2016-axys-pro-rmk
Listen to this around the 19-20ish minute mark. Pretty revealing.
Listen to this around the 19-20ish minute mark. Pretty revealing.
I'll take bent over break!
Look I understand where polaris is coming from. Bend before damage to the chassis. However an aggressive rider like myself will go through these lower a arms every other ride. In 3 years of riding pro chassis' I only bent the tunnel once with the stronger a arm. Now I know that I abuse sleds like I think they are supposed to be riden. I know most people don't, but I think they are quite a bit more weak than the chassis bending threshold. No doubt I smacked some things, but not over the bars smack. I was replacing these anyway but i wish i could have sold them before the damage. Supposed to have the zbros by the end of the week.
I have a pile of bent and broken arms. Stock ,aftermarket, chromoly ,Ti doesn't really matter . Unless you want to ride groomed trails it's going to happen so have spares !!
For 340.00 per side I would buy a good aftermarket set and keep the stockers for spares
For 340.00 per side I would buy a good aftermarket set and keep the stockers for spares
I'd bet an a-arm this is what happened. I don't run carbides because of it. It doesn't always take big force to wreck things often it is large jerk (change in acceleration) that causes an instantaneous stress riser, that you can't barely feel because it happens and is gone so quickly, that is the real culprit. An example would be a carbide catching and releasing on a rock or changing gears in a manual where although the accelerating force is bounded by the engine power, an inexperienced driver lets you experience severe jerk, because of intermittent force closure over the clutch.
I either grind the carbide off or run a hard weld. Takes a pretty powerful grinder to actually take off that hard material. 8" grinder usually has enough juice for the job. 6" grinder not so much.
For grinding anything Carbide, a Green Wheel should be used, as it is far harder than most other grinding compounds. It really has nothing to do with grinder HP, but you can definitely load the bigger grinder more without stalling it out.
Easier yet is an Oxy / Acetylene torch and soften / melt the brazing and pull the carbide inserts off with pliers or knock them off with a hammer and punch once the brazing compound has been softened on the profiled shaper bars.
Remove stock wear bars, heat up the carbide with a torch and when you see the braze puddle up tap it with a chisel and it will fall right out. Reheat the bar and wire brush, then fill the V-groove with weld.
One of the first things I do to a new sled. It will save your *** many times. Eric
One of the first things I do to a new sled. It will save your *** many times. Eric
carbides
X2 ullose, I myself no longer run a carbide but instead run a single piece of Ti. 3/8 rod. Lightweight and doesn't catch or snag anything.
X2 ullose, I myself no longer run a carbide but instead run a single piece of Ti. 3/8 rod. Lightweight and doesn't catch or snag anything.
S
whats it like going down a steep tree covered icey hill with no carbides?
Never had an issue with the glue. I think it is innovation in other industries that led us to glue on our sleds. Obviously you didnt see the pull test samples polaris carries around. The alumimum pulled a part not the glued joint. Im not worried abiut the a arms until I ride the sled and see.
The problem they had with the glue was issues during assembly. A lot of car mfgrs have been doing it for years, as well as in the airline industry.
As was said, if it's done correctly the glue joint can be stronger than the material itself.
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
As was said, if it's done correctly the glue joint can be stronger than the material itself.
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Correct I use the Glues all the time in the boats, if the joint is done correctly its stronger that the 6061 we use, ie if you use a air chisel on the joint the aluminum will separate before the glued joint, you must use heat to get it to separate at the glue line.
