Sway Bar
I fumbled around with the sway bar on my 06 600 Smackback after running over a rock in Cooke two seasons ago. I changed the whole front end to the RMK A-arms so I would never run into the problem of finding IQ wide A-arms out west when I need them.
I believe Carl's sway bar is just the IQ wide IFS version...if not, this post is all for nothing. If so, then this applies.
I ran the original -thicker diameter sway bar with the RMK a-arms. You have to install the IQ wide sway bar bushing blocks in the RMK a-arms or auger-out the RMK blocks are they are not wide, not deep enough to accomodate the larger diameter sway bar. I chose to just install the IQ wide blocks, but they sit deeper in the mounts. (The sway bars are the same length, but the a-arm bushing block holders on the a-arms are configured differently between the two setups.)
Since they sit deeper into the mounts, the sway bar ends beat the crap out of the bushings and I believe even jammed from time to time.
My opinion would be to auger out the RMK blocks to make the larger diameter sway bar fit.
At the end of last year I removed the sway bar alltogether becuase it does make it silly when trying to roll side to side...
This year, I just installed the RMK sway bar into the sled and removed the heavy duty front track spring. Reason why is my sled is run primarily here in MN and no sway bar here, coupled with the heavy duty FTS makes for one hell of ride down a groomed trail.
My total opinion is that no sway bar requires a shock upgrade for sure. As for the heavy duty FTS, only install if you want the center of the sled to be the absolute tipping point for the balance of the sled. Again, probably great for 100% MNT riding, so-so for the trails...Even out west, I'd rather have the rail tips compress more upwards when encountering powder than not moving at all with that big spring...
As for removal, remove one lower a-arm, have buddy hold up the upper a-arm and spindle, remove the two clamp/bushing plates from the bulkead, and pull the bar through or slide it back through...it's a no go with those clamp plates still rivited in...It looks like the bar won't clear through, but it does....