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NewB rear suspension setup question - MC 900

N
Dec 2, 2007
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I have a 2003 MC 900 151. It is my first mountain sled and I've ridden it a few years now. It has absolutely beat me to death on the trail getting through the whoops and I am certain that the suspension isn't set up the way it should be for the powder.

This year, I have had all the shocks re-built and I think there will be a significant improvement based on what my shock guy is telling me he found inside them. But, I need to set up the suspension as best as I can and I need a little help -

So, how much sag should I have? Or maybe I should ask, for a guy that weighs in at about 230 all geared up, what should I have the rear spring setting set at? How about front skid shock pre-load? Limit strap settings? And finally, front shocks?

The sled has Sledjunky drop brackets, but other than that is pretty much stock. I'm just looking to setup the sled to its potential so I can grow into it.

Thanks for all the help -

Newt
 
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N
Dec 2, 2007
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Anyone?

How about just telling me what your settings are if you are using this sled - and your geared up weight. I can go from there.

Thanks -

Newt
 
R
Dec 10, 2007
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1
8
i have the same machine all i did was set everything on the softest settings and cranked em up on the trail up until i was just shy of bottoming out seemed fine from there also set u p the limiter strap to itsshortest setting for powder let it out for whoops and bumps
 
N
Dec 2, 2007
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Thats kind of where I've been planning to start. I need to keep the limit strap shorter than it has been before to try to control the weight transfer - it felt on the trail like I had to shift my weight as far forward as I could just to keep the skis close to the ground, let alone on it. I'm hoping that with the strap tighter it will be a little more controllable on the trail. I think it was probably too loose - and allowing the shocks to fully extend and reach their limit.

Thanks for the info -

Newt
 
7

76FOMOCO

Well-known member
Apr 18, 2007
4,446
1,235
113
Nampa, Idaho
i run the front strap as loose as i can, the front shock on the rear skid preload just a few cranks past the bottom just to keep the spring in place and the rear sping adj in the middle, check your track tension, make the track as loose as you can without ratcheting. if the track is too tight the rear skid can NOT do it's job!
 
D

Double A

Member
Nov 27, 2007
338
24
18
Central Washington
^^^Exactly. If track is too tight you will be bottoming out on track stretch.. not shock stroke. I also moved the front swing arm to a flatter position by lowering front mount to the lowest hole on the tunnel. You have to drill it out but its there. Then moved the lower shock mount (on the rails) rearward approx an inch or so.. placing it above the rib that runs down the rails. Also flattening its angle as well.
(you will lose a little shock stroke mounting it this way..but not enough to matter.)
It still transfers weight as it should and man what a difference on the trail. Still not perfect by any means but its cheap to do!

Edit: I have HRP drop brackets on the rear. So you will most likely need these if you do the swing arm relocation. www.holzracingproducts.com
Call them up and ask for drop brackets for a 1M.

If you do this correctly..the skid/track will sit flat on the shop floor.. tip to tail.

Also..premature Driver shaft Bearing Failure can result from the track tension issue. (if track is run too tight)

That was my fix anyway.:D
 
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D

diggerdown

Well-known member
Apr 25, 2004
3,452
677
113
Deer Park Wi.
I'm about the same size as you are and have the SJ drop brackets on a 04 king. Limiters straps long, front skid shock screwed up with about 3/4" thread out the bottom. Rear skid on middle cam and track is pretty loose. My shocks were re-valved to work in a more progressive manner. Starting soft and getting firmer the more compressed they get. The ski shocks are set fairly light but with enough pressure to give some control on the trail. After that the best thing you can do to give a better ride is put a high seat on the sled and keep forward in the studder bumps.
 
N
Dec 2, 2007
21
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1
Thanks for all the reply's. I'll have to look into relocating things - not sure if I want to bite off that much of a project.

As far as limiter straps, there seems to be some conflicting info. Tight or loose for powder? For trail? Its kind of a pain in the *** to change on the mountain - is there a single all around setting that works? It seems that too long would allow too much weight transfer on the trail, but maybe cause it to trench in the powder? And obviously you want the strap to be tight when the sled is hanging so that you aren't banging on the shocks full extension, correct?

So, how loose should the track be? Those of you that have found the tension that is tight enough to not ratchet, how much distance between the hifax and the track is there when the sled is in the air? Just looking for a starting spot - I have about 2" right now. 151 inch track btw.

Thanks -

Newt
 
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