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Evans waterless coolant

dooman92

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Anyone using Evans waterless coolant in their snowbike? Outcome? Issues? It sounds like a cure to inconsistent rad caps and boil overs.
 

wwillf01

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I use and have used it in everything I have owned from turbo bikes, minis, snowbikes.... It's money for sure in winter. I like it in summer also especially if you don't have a fan. I have kids riding with us adults on minis where minis should not ride... One ran out of coolant engine went orange and grenaded... Got to love kids.... Then the one with Evans 275 no issues during every tear down... Turbo bike heat issues but with Evans always ran smooth ..... Summer I have had all the 2 strokes up to 265 on 100 degree days ... Or stupid stuff 100s and 100s of hours everything is always good... The only downfall is depending on the bike it will run 10 to 15 degrees warmer... But I have never had warped heads, cylinders, gaskets because of the heat... I have had discoloring if the crank but everything always keeps running smoothly.. hell I have even had clutch plates lock up because of heat but again on an 85 and tons of mud... Somewhere we should not have been with an 85... Everything else was fine in the engine....

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C
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that stuff scares me in the summer. I like how normal coolant boils at 230F and lets you know shes uncomfortably hot and that you should do something about it. give you a bit of padding and lets you be easier on the motor. When your rad with 50/50 boils over its telling you something, running Evans will not let it boil over until the damage is done.

Evans Thermal conductivity is 0.27W/m.K

Ethylene glycol solution 0.43W/m.K



IMO, it doesnt cool any better. in fact, it makes the engine run hotter believe it or not. regular coolant or water is way more efficient at pulling heat away from the engine. Evans just raises the boiling point which is nothing but trouble. 260F/130C is fully pegged in the red on a normal vehicles temp gauge.





why do you need this in the winter anyways? are you having overheating problems? If your boiling over regular coolant youve got more problems then swapping miracle coolant as a band aid fix. Bad rad cap for instance can lower the boiling point significantly, if it ACTUALLY reached 265 degrees stuff would start warping.

I could be wrong. let me know if I am!
 

byeatts

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Anyone using Evans waterless coolant in their snowbike? Outcome? Issues? It sounds like a cure to inconsistent rad caps and boil overs.

Evans works against keeping motor temps up, high boiling point. It transfers heat better which is great if your having over heat issues, Not the case for me We are trying to keep temps up, I do run Evans in all our Moto bikes as heat is the killer. Great product wrong application for winter riding.
 

wwillf01

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how are you figuring that??



It does run hotter but let me put it this way...... It can handle running hotter and keeps transferring heat and does not cavitate..... Why do you need it.... Spring long pulls and on the road my bike heats up pretty good and not loosing coolant here and there and being left with more coolant is always better. I have put holes in radiators and limped back with empty radiators and still nothing warped or damaged. This stuff runs much better hotter and keeps the engine consistent.... For us and racing is where it is gold when you don't have time to cool it off. Again with kids that are not watch or understanding their bikes it has saved bikes ten fold.... Plus it never goes bad and really lubricates the system well...
 

ridgeclimber

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Evans waterless Coolant

I use it in my 1968 chev C10. I have a 400 hp LS 6 litre with the stock two core rad with no shroud and a mechanical fan. It gets up to 210 degrees and stays there. What also is nice is that it does not build any pressure in the coolant system. So hopefully less likely to leak and it never goes bad.
 

dooman92

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Evans

Why do I need it? Same reasons wwillfo mentioned. I've tested four rad caps in the last couple years that started the season holding enough pressure that the bike wouldn't piss coolant till 225 or more. By the end of the season they would be down 10-15 degrees resulting in losing coolant on long pulls or anytime the bike idled for few minutes. Sometimes don't notice till the bike doesn't cool down when it should because coolant is low. I want to run my bike near 200 degrees and don't want to worry about pissing coolant when I hit 220. I do understand that given the slightly reduced heat transfer ability the bike might run a bit warmer and that's ok.
 

HalfBrit

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Why do I need it? Same reasons wwillfo mentioned. I've tested four rad caps in the last couple years that started the season holding enough pressure that the bike wouldn't piss coolant till 225 or more. By the end of the season they would be down 10-15 degrees resulting in losing coolant on long pulls or anytime the bike idled for few minutes. Sometimes don't notice till the bike doesn't cool down when it should because coolant is low. I want to run my bike near 200 degrees and don't want to worry about pissing coolant when I hit 220. I do understand that given the slightly reduced heat transfer ability the bike might run a bit warmer and that's ok.

That's why I use it. idling waiting for riders to come around the corner to the next intersection, the bike would piss. Not super hot, but each time it pisses less coolant to hold heat. Which means less time idling each stop before it pisses again. Switched to evans and no more problems.
Also spring trail riding is not an issue anymore.
 
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