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Is it worth upgrading to gripper skis

summ8rmk

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Gripper keel vs cat keel what's the difference? They look the same to me from photos. So my best guess is how they flex and spindle placement on the ski might be different.
I will get measurements and pics this weekend...

Mountain Cat
 

CRJPilot

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One problem I see with switching to Polaris grippers from stock 2016+ 7" Cat Ski is losing the adjustability of the ski stance to the two narrowest settings......????? I could be wrong, anyone confirm?
 

kiliki

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the stock cat ski will go 34.5 to 38.5 the gripper will only go 35.5 to 37.5 on the 16 front end.
 
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kidwoo

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One problem I see with switching to Polaris grippers from stock 2016+ 7" Cat Ski is losing the adjustability of the ski stance to the two narrowest settings......????? I could be wrong, anyone confirm?

True. But with the 36" front end I actually moved my skis back out after initially putting them in the narrowest setting. Something I've never done on any other sled.
 

txinmt

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This is all very good information and very helpful! Thanks to everyone replying.

As a reminder...I have the 2014 cat (and skis) so it is not a comparison between the grippers and the "new" cat skis. I am sure the "new" cat skis are probably better than the older ones. I have always heard that ANY aftermarket ski was an improvement over the stock cat skis. I have also heard that ANY aftermarket ski is an improvement over ANY sled stock skis. Since Grippers are stock skis for Polaris, I wonder if I wouldn't be better off holding out for either powder pros, mohawks, BX's or slydgog powder hounds. I'm sure that all ski brands are just like sled brands in that they have their loyal followers. Opinions on ski comparisons?

I also realize that the new front end would be the BIGGEST improvement and I do plan on making that upgrade eventually, but at $400+, I will have to wait until next year to do that.

As far as whether better flotation alone is enough reason to upgrade, I would have to say it is IMHO. I love my cat, but it is definitely a little heavier in the front end. I would feel a bit more confident knowing I am a little less likely to hook a ski on a root or smack a large rock or stump with my ski (or worse..an a arm). I totally understand what summ8rmk is talking about with descending steep hills and being able to "stuff" a ski to slow your descent. My experience has been that is usually not too much of an issue. On a REALLY steep hill, if the snow is soft enough, I just kinda "elevator" or sidehill it down a little at a time. If the snow is harder packed, I use my "chicken belt". One of my buddies from the north side of the border showed me how to make one out of an old drive belt. You just slip it over the end of one ski and that will slow you down.

Again....thanks for all the feedback. This is all a huge help!
 

summ8rmk

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The C&A BX ski is horrible on the Proclimb!
It is so twitchy. Start turning and the ski will finish the job even though u don't want to turn all the way the ski will make u.
Also, forget about backing up, ski digs straight down and ur stuck. Then try dropping down in To a ditch, ski is so stiff that they act as a dart and go straight down to the bottom, stuck again.
Absolutely worst mod i have ever done do a sled.
Stock 14 skis are much better in every aspect of riding.


I only have 26miles on my 18 so the new ski is still new to me. It definitely tracks others skis more than the 14 does and i think it may have a bit of the twitching the BX has descending hills in powder.

Mountain Cat
 

kidwoo

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How do the Slydog Powderhounds compare stiffness wise? Have you heard good thing about them when on a proclaim? How do they compare to grippers?

I've only ridden them on an m-series, a dragon, and an old original rev.

I liked them and thought they floated really well on those sleds. I don't think they're any better than grippers though, and the grippers are cheaper. No proclimb experience though.
 

F7arcticcat

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Does everything mount right up with the grippers and the proclimb? Rubber stops and everything?
 

caproskis

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The C&A BX ski is horrible on the Proclimb!
It is so twitchy. Start turning and the ski will finish the job even though u don't want to turn all the way the ski will make u.
Also, forget about backing up, ski digs straight down and ur stuck. Then try dropping down in To a ditch, ski is so stiff that they act as a dart and go straight down to the bottom, stuck again.
Absolutely worst mod i have ever done do a sled.
Stock 14 skis are much better in every aspect of riding.

Mountain Cat

Hi summ8rmk, thanks for your feedback on our product. We do appreciate any and all feedback on products, as feedback is what drives us aftermarket manufacturers to continually strive to have the best products out there!

We have logged many hours and miles on essentially every brand mountain machines with the BX skis and haven’t had the same experience. If you have time please feel free to call our toll free line 888-321-6789 and ask for tech support. We are always happy to help out with any questions, comments or concerns (as we don’t get to frequent the forums as much as we’d like). We would be happy to go over some simple checks and balances as it seems there might be a few things that should be checked to remedy the concerns stated above.

1st a unique thing with the C&A Pro lineup is all of our skis have the ability to raise and lower the height of the tip of the ski. This is done by changing the hole position of the handle in the saddle. All of our skis come from the factory with the hole in the middle position. When snow conditions are deep, light/fluffy we highly suggest moving the handle to the 3rd position (closest to your machines spindle). What this does on the BX ski is give about 2” extra of height to the tip of the ski, it also makes the overall length of the ski shorter (from the spindle mount to the tip). For light fluffy snow and lots of creek crossings this is highly recommended.
Check out this link to see a video explaining: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iu6ao7sbx0g&list=PLJq0OLBGn0MA7a15kS59DqCo1I6wFY11N&index=3

2nd is to make sure a proper ski alignment has been done. As per our install instructions we recommend a 3/8” overall toe out. Not per side, overall. This will greatly improve the on trail handling as well as keep the machine tracking the desired direction when performing downhill carves across trenches. (on this note, please make sure all critical steering components are tight. Nothing fun about a very loose tie rod end causing a ski to have 2” of slop side to side).

3rd we design our ski dampeners to be compressed when installing. We do this so there is minimal slack in the articulation of the ski (up and down travel) when the machine is in the air. Last thing any rider wants is the ski tips to drop resulting in the operator taking a ride over the handlebars. Similar to being in the air, it is also beneficial to have a tight dampener fit when in loose fluffy snow, as if there is slop between the dampener and the ski the tips of the ski will always want to fold back/up towards the A-arms from the resistance in the snow (this will cause the rear of the machine to try and chase the front on every turn). Keeping a tight fit will minimalize this and give more consistent/predictable handling. If the machine seems like it wants to turn all the way around when initiating a sidehill/turn that generally means that there is too light of ski pressure. Increase the amount of ski pressure (via skidframe) and this will be a thing of the past.

Again these are just a couple things to look at. We greatly appreciate your honest feedback, and if anyone has any questions please feel free to give us a call at 888-321-6789 or drop us an email at sales@caproskis.com
 

txinmt

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Mar 17, 2013
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Hi summ8rmk, thanks for your feedback on our product. We do appreciate any and all feedback on products, as feedback is what drives us aftermarket manufacturers to continually strive to have the best products out there!

We have logged many hours and miles on essentially every brand mountain machines with the BX skis and haven’t had the same experience. If you have time please feel free to call our toll free line 888-321-6789 and ask for tech support. We are always happy to help out with any questions, comments or concerns (as we don’t get to frequent the forums as much as we’d like). We would be happy to go over some simple checks and balances as it seems there might be a few things that should be checked to remedy the concerns stated above.

1st a unique thing with the C&A Pro lineup is all of our skis have the ability to raise and lower the height of the tip of the ski. This is done by changing the hole position of the handle in the saddle. All of our skis come from the factory with the hole in the middle position. When snow conditions are deep, light/fluffy we highly suggest moving the handle to the 3rd position (closest to your machines spindle). What this does on the BX ski is give about 2” extra of height to the tip of the ski, it also makes the overall length of the ski shorter (from the spindle mount to the tip). For light fluffy snow and lots of creek crossings this is highly recommended.
Check out this link to see a video explaining: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iu6ao7sbx0g&list=PLJq0OLBGn0MA7a15kS59DqCo1I6wFY11N&index=3

2nd is to make sure a proper ski alignment has been done. As per our install instructions we recommend a 3/8” overall toe out. Not per side, overall. This will greatly improve the on trail handling as well as keep the machine tracking the desired direction when performing downhill carves across trenches. (on this note, please make sure all critical steering components are tight. Nothing fun about a very loose tie rod end causing a ski to have 2” of slop side to side).

3rd we design our ski dampeners to be compressed when installing. We do this so there is minimal slack in the articulation of the ski (up and down travel) when the machine is in the air. Last thing any rider wants is the ski tips to drop resulting in the operator taking a ride over the handlebars. Similar to being in the air, it is also beneficial to have a tight dampener fit when in loose fluffy snow, as if there is slop between the dampener and the ski the tips of the ski will always want to fold back/up towards the A-arms from the resistance in the snow (this will cause the rear of the machine to try and chase the front on every turn). Keeping a tight fit will minimalize this and give more consistent/predictable handling. If the machine seems like it wants to turn all the way around when initiating a sidehill/turn that generally means that there is too light of ski pressure. Increase the amount of ski pressure (via skidframe) and this will be a thing of the past.

Again these are just a couple things to look at. We greatly appreciate your honest feedback, and if anyone has any questions please feel free to give us a call at 888-321-6789 or drop us an email at sales@caproskis.com


I haven't pulled the trigger on those grippers yet. I have been going back and forth between getting the less expensive grippers or going with slydogs or mohawks. If you send me a set of the BX or powder pros to demo, I would be more than happy to sing their praises on here if I like them!
 

summ8rmk

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First i want to say i that i have 26+ yrs snowmobiling experience. Just so that u understand that i am not new to this sport.

Also i appreciate ur professional response. Sincerely, I Thank u for that.


I Put these on my sled 12-12-2013, they were on a 2014 sled with very few miles Everything was like new and tight. The ski rubber was so firm it took a ratchet strap to compress enough to get the bolt in.

Look at the comparison pics to the stock ski. U can see why the BX ski doesn't work appropriately. Fore and aft ratio is way off! If the spindle mount was further forward, that would help so much with steering control and backing up!
Look at the height of the ski and keel. Just a little to much material, creating an extremely stiff(rigid) ski that has very little flex.(and heavy) The rubber bushing is extremely firm allowing almost no up and down movement, that is the main cause of the lawn dart effect (along with extreme rigidity) in ditches not the curve of the tip. It really showes it's firmness when u lift the sled by the ski handle to put dolly underneath.

I spent $500, put 2 trips for a total of 75miles on these skis. Took them off and it took over a year to sell them for $250.
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Mountain Cat
 
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cpa

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IMHO Grippers are the best mod you can do on a 2012-2015 proclimb. It will make more difference and so much more oredicatable in all conditions you will wonder how you ever ride the sled without it. You can find grippers cheap too. I wouldn’t pay over $150 for a pair. Just do a little looking and you can find a smoking deal.
 

kidwoo

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My Grippers have a Polaris attached.


I ran that setup too but eventually upgraded my grippers with an m8. Best move I ever made.


And yes, C&A skis feel like they're made for yamahas. Way too stiff. I'd love a thinner extruded model from those guys, they're certainly made well construction-wise.
 
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sno*jet

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Grippers are really good. I rode a 18 Cat though and had no complaint about the stock skis. My Grippers have a Polaris attached.

see I am more comfortable on a proclimb with mohawks and maybe grippers (havent tried them yet) than any 18s ive ridden (3 so far) with the stock skis.
An 18 with better skis i probably would not want to ride my proclimb any more. I think its those wide long tips that fight me.
i lay awake at night wondering how much better rider i coulda been my first 3 months on my 17MC if i replaced those f'ers from the get go. :face-icon-small-win
 
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