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T3 174 overheating on the trail...

idahoskiguy

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Finally was able to ride my new T3 174 :becky:

Great sled but will need to watch the temperature on the trails more than my 2014 Summit X 163. Riding the same trails my step son on the 2014 with cable scratchers never even got more than four bars while the T3 174 went to six bars :face-icon-small-fro

The T3 174 works amazing in the DEEP :second:

The trail cooling is something I can live with and is no worse than my old mod sleds which required careful attention on the trail :juggle:
 

Devilmanak

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I knew this sled was awesome, but didn't know how good until today. We have stupid deep snow now, I rode my 174 back to back to a 14 Pro 163 with a 3" track. No comparison. 174 walks it in the deep big, even weighing so much more than a Pro. I was very surprised after taking the Pro for a spin and having to use my Doo tracks to come even close to where the Doo would go.
Good sled.
 

Devilmanak

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4 is normal. I have gotten one to beep at me and turn off, that was pretty much full bars. This engine really won't let you hurt it.
My mentality is if there are 5 bars, look for some soft snow, if there are 6, stop to look for some, if there are 7, then you haven't done the first 2 steps. :)
 

snow-doo

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T3 163 frayed track

2015 t3 163 rode the first time 12/21/2014.and track shows fraying on right side only, left side perfect. Anyone having the same issue. Do not see any rivets hitting it.
Thanks
Dick
 
E

eman0993

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Aug 19, 2009
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2015 t3 163 rode the first time 12/21/2014.and track shows fraying on right side only, left side perfect. Anyone having the same issue. Do not see any rivets hitting it.
Thanks
Dick
Is it rubbing on the drop bracket? Noticed a lot of these tracks aren't centered in the skid
 
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byeatts

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Nov 29, 2007
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4 is normal. I have gotten one to beep at me and turn off, that was pretty much full bars. This engine really won't let you hurt it.
My mentality is if there are 5 bars, look for some soft snow, if there are 6, stop to look for some, if there are 7, then you haven't done the first 2 steps. :)

the heating issues are just beginning , wait till spring, I wood have bet a paycheck Doo wood,nt have put the 3 inch out to the public and was wrong, Been running the 3 inch two full seasons, Great on the mountain however not for those who are use to fast trail speeds and just riding, You really need to monitor the engine, Hyperfax will solve the hyfax issue.additional Ski scratchers will also be a bonus.
 
B

bdt

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My dealer said the guy's having heat problems installed vent kits in the hood to keep the snow out. How many of you guy's having problems installed or didn't install vent kits?
 
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medicine hat
Good point but doo also reduced the heat exchangers and coolant in the system.. There is another two items on top of the three inch track that will cause it to heat quicker

On the two aftermarket chassies I have built I have done the opposite adding additional cooling and coolant to help prevent that with the three inch and works very well, almost to the point of no heating issue in bad snow..

One thing with the three I have found is high speed down the trails helps much more than going slow, it kicks up and helps hold in more snow spray for coolers


the heating issues are just beginning , wait till spring, I wood have bet a paycheck Doo wood,nt have put the 3 inch out to the public and was wrong, Been running the 3 inch two full seasons, Great on the mountain however not for those who are use to fast trail speeds and just riding, You really need to monitor the engine, Hyperfax will solve the hyfax issue.additional Ski scratchers will also be a bonus.
 

1500psi

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Just to clarify something here.... A thermostat does not and can not increase the cooling efficiency if the cooling system. The theory that slower movement of the coolant keeping the engine cooler couldn't be more false.
In order to cool a material it must come in contact with molecules of a colder substance be it water, air, ect. The greater the heat energy that you wish to absorb, the greater volume of heat absorber you need to contact that surface.

What cools you better in the summer, your fan in low or high?
What heats your car faster, fan in low or high? Btw the high setting is sucking air through the heater core faster than low.

As an extremely technical/nerdy mechanic/hd mechanic for almost 20 years, plus wrenching as a hobby in everything from sophisticated 4x4's, race cars, 3000hp blown alcohol engines, I can tell you from not only the scientific side but also experience that this theory is absolutely ludicrous.

There is one exception however where a thermostat can keep the engine cooler but it has nothing to do with slowing the water to keep it cool. It is the sliding sheath type thermostat that does more than simply let weather through when it's if temperature. Rather it redirects coolant flow for quicker warm ups without possibility of hotspots then closes the recurculatiry system and opens the flow to the radiator as required. If you remove this type of thermostat you can over heat due to the fact an uncontrolled amount if coolant is constantly recirculating without ever being cooled in the rad. This system is contrary to a typical passenger vehicle/atv/bike/sled thermostat/system which simply dead heads with small curculatory bleeders until the opening temperature is met.

Further more water wetter has never lowered temps by any detectable amount that I could measure via temp gauge and laser thermo gun, and believe me i tested it out of curiosity sake. Block radiator with cardboard, adjust idle screw to 2200rpm for 40minutes, after 15 or so minutes both the gauge and temp gun were reading 227 degrees. Shut it down,let it cool down, add water wetter and repeat. Exact same results. Could I be wrong, for could there be some great marketing for a useless product? You can decide for yourself.

Red sketcher is exactly correct on his entire post.thanks for correcting that Cuz I can't seem to correct/state facts Anymore in the skidod section without getting the big red thumb Lmao anyways The only thing he didn't add was 50/50 antifreeze changes your boiling point 13 degrees and every pound of pressure radiator cap you have raises it 3 more,example 10lb cap raises boiling point 30 degrees with 50/50 antifreeze. 212*+13+30=255*boilover. Not that that matters much in a 2stroke since optimum temp is about 155*. After that you can tell atleast I can that 2strokes lose power and grow in places people don't like lol also I think eliminating coolers so save a couple ounces is dumb Cuz most clients have to ride the road and just scratchers isn't the fixall, and sometimes the road is sooo whooped out you can't go fast and many other reasons too..
I learned along time when ur going down the road a mudflap is crucial to keep the Eddie effect in, and a cooler at the very back of the tunnel is more important than anywhere else and water wetter just makes you feel better. I'm forgetting something else important I can't think of but that Cuz I been running one of those super heavy four strokes that I've never ever seen overheat on any road.
 

byeatts

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Nov 29, 2007
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Good point but doo also reduced the heat exchangers and coolant in the system.. There is another two items on top of the three inch track that will cause it to heat quicker

On the two aftermarket chassies I have built I have done the opposite adding additional cooling and coolant to help prevent that with the three inch and works very well, almost to the point of no heating issue in bad snow..

One thing with the three I have found is high speed down the trails helps much more than going slow, it kicks up and helps hold in more snow spray for coolers

I have to agree, rolling around 40 seems to fog the tunnel with spray, It seems to create a draft in the flap..I do run water wetter and no T stat. Hyperfax eliminates hyfax wear completely so i just monitor engine temps, I have a larger cooler as well.
 

Devilmanak

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Dec 12, 2007
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2015 t3 163 rode the first time 12/21/2014.and track shows fraying on right side only, left side perfect. Anyone having the same issue. Do not see any rivets hitting it.
Thanks
Dick

Yes, I have noticed that these tracks need to be kept tight. Massive fraying on the left side, and I pdi-ed it myself, it was aligned. I used to just run tracks as loose as possible until they ratchet, even on my 14 163. Can't do that on this one. I have massive powdercoating scratches on the inside of the tunnel, on the left side. When the track gets loose, it walks. It also makes a hell of a lot of noise and vibration when loose, lol. The fraying is from rubbing on those drop brackets, there is very little clearance on each side.
225 miles and I have tightened it several times already. I think we are finding out why they didn't Doo all the track cutouts that the demo rigs had.
 
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