Please help. Setting up REV for better side hilling???

this thing of my wheelies like crazy, so i have the front shock a little more than half way loose to try and get some pressure on the skis. thanks tho, ill try it next ride out and see if i like the stiffer springs better one more time.

Danzick said:

this thing of my wheelies like crazy, so i have the front shock a little more than half way loose to try and get some pressure on the skis. thanks tho, ill try it next ride out and see if i like the stiffer springs better one more time.

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Shouldn't wheelie that much - may have to suck up the straps a notch or stiffen the rear springs.

Have FUN!

G

G-man it also looks like you covere the ported part of your track with material...is that what i'm seeing?

snowyo said:

G-man it also looks like you covere the ported part of your track with material...is that what i'm seeing?

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Yes, I have the Felkers flappers - prevents snow from being pushed into the skid while allowing snow to come out. Another best of both worlds situation. My setup flat out works.

Have FUN!

G MAN

mil81 said:

if you take all the top plastics off you will see where your steering post mounts at the top. If you un-bolt it and bolt the rear hole of the post to the front hole in the frame, that is what he was refering to. You then have to drill a new hole in the frame for the front post mount. It's a pretty easy mod, and makes a world of difference in the feel of the machine

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Is there a nifty little write up with pics on this? Or a link would be great.

Thanks.

Steering Post

As said more detail and pics would be great and does this apply to 2007 Summit X?

It applies to all revs. Head over to dootalk and search ttab mod shop. Have fun

It's really not that hard to get these sleds to carve. Hang your leg out on the uphill side and give it more gas. Mods are great and all, but trying to compensate by cutting track etc. is hindering your ability to ride the sled. What if you get in a tight spot where you need ability to get out and not a mod to the sled. Practice for a weekend on carving/sidehilling only and you will get it. These sleds turns right over with countersteer. Loosen the front shocks until you get a good feel, then tighten them as you get better for better response and control.

monster967 said:

It's really not that hard to get these sleds to carve. Hang your leg out on the uphill side and give it more gas. Mods are great and all, but trying to compensate by cutting track etc. is hindering your ability to ride the sled. What if you get in a tight spot where you need ability to get out and not a mod to the sled. Practice for a weekend on carving/sidehilling only and you will get it. These sleds turns right over with countersteer. Loosen the front shocks until you get a good feel, then tighten them as you get better for better response and control.

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Agreed.I own both xp(10) and rev(07) and have no problems chucking either around .BUT i also like to know what improves these sled so they flat out work better.Just for the record my sway bar is still in both of them,it does not hamper me in any condition.

A few years ago I did two mods to my ultra light 365 lb TNT mtn mod to help with sidehilling. Ski Cut on outside of the tails and cut the skid plate out under the a-arms. Made a big difference. Likely a bit more on my sled as very little weight on that uphill ski compared to a stock 800.

The other mod I discovered from a friend a number of years ago on a 05 rev is clutching. Higher rate spring in the primary with a lower engagement rpm and low gearing. Can crawl along like a snow tractor up to about 5 mph or higher depending on engagement rpm but any time you blip full throttle can instantly get full rpm and brake the track loose.

When sidehilling, if front starts going down, blip throttle and back slides down to level it out or point it back up hill if you want. Watch and listen to the "Schooled" vids of Rasmussen and Burandt, I think they are burping the throttle constantly doing this. Here he is in slow-motion http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a3oVBrtaAAk&feature=related
and Schooled Again http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ExHM0OTTzVs

Good Luck

Hello, I haven`t ridden the sled yet but I have also cut and motched my skid plate back like in the pic above or below which ever you have you threard settings set, make a ton of sence to me, I also softened my front shocks and think about it an try it , if on hard ground you loosen you front shocks up and then try to tip the sled to the left for instance the suspension squishs and lays over alot more effortlessly, now if you are on soft or harder snow, this to me would be even more effortless since hard frozen dirt is not forgiving and the skis can`t sink down like they can in snow, so I`m hoping my powerturns and hillside carvs HAVE to me alot easier to execute, along with loosening the limiter strap should be a huge difference,

Last year I did a sigmificant cut out on my 6.9pilot skis and shortened the rear of them 2.5inchs along with swapping them from side to side and just that mod made alot of differece also after swapping removed the now Inside carbide, seen no need for it there and makes the ski lighter.

I know these adjustment were a big difference on my S Chassis and they have to be even better on the Rev, I also have a 15inch track but don`t really think 15to16inch makes that much difference on carving or sidehilling.

Wildcard,




this mod also mades a big difference to where your feet set whether your wrong foot forward or nuetral position etc. get your feet forward more and more stable footing, cut the side panel to the same shape as the footwell bracket.




also remove the footwell loop piece that wraps around the bracket , keeps your boots from getting caught in them if you fall off the side of the sled, they can catch you boots twisting your ankle and dragging you from the sled, Ttabs on dootalk explains this and he almost broke his ankle so he raised the loop bracket up to clear boots when slid in on there side , should be able to put boot in and then tip them sideways and not touch of hang up on the aluminum sheetmetal loop that used to be there in this pic if boots bind on them redrill holes higher and bend loop up or just cut them out like I did and it looks cleaner too.

Good Luck, Wildcard

wildcard28 said:

this mod also mades a big difference to where your feet set whether your wrong foot forward or nuetral position etc. get your feet forward more and more stable footing, cut the side panel to the same shape as the footwell bracket.

Good Luck, Wildcard

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even better cut the side panel to the toe bracket (next one in) takes care of all the snow build up in the footwell

finaly got out for a ride with the mods listed and many others awesome footing position, really like the stance and positioning of my feet and the suspension softer set up it awesome, at least on not really deep kinda hard snow I can lean on the sled and snap the throttle and she lays over and man I can dump it on is side pretty easy, will see what happens when I get in a downhill off camber cituation and see what happens then,

I also purchased a set of Alternativeimpact.com Chromoly A arms, I didn`t go with the 37inch cause the trails we ride on to get to the play areas are hard snow and real rutty and I have a hard enough time keeping this baby on the skis and with the narrow arms It would be more difficult to me so I went with the stock stance, mostly after the weight advantage, I also purchased a Br Tech smoked colored hood and have it trimmed and have temporarily removed the headlight so I don`t have to cut the hood out going to but a Lead Dog Helmet light.

Anyway really getting to where I want to be, next will be a Boss Seat and some light weight parts in the rear skid also thinkin of the Br Tech side panels, after getting the hood I thought the plastic would be the really thing super flemsy plastic like my buddies , S Chassis hood but mine is thicker not as thick as stock hood or panels about half and over half the weight lighter.

Wildcard