Silber Turbo not starting after running

Ckale · Dec 21, 2013

Well, replaced my reeds yesterday and got it back together. Conclusion...did they need replaced? Probably. Was this the problem...unfortunately not. The sled still will not start, at any throttle position. I guess this is the next thing to check is the throttle pull position to ensure it isnt above idle when starting.

Here are some pictures of the old reeds.

Ckale · Dec 21, 2013

Got it started today and went riding. Exact same symptoms, had to let it idle before shutting it off. Sometimes had to open the throttle to get it to start. TPS? Where to look now?

Ckale · Dec 29, 2013

Well pulled the throttle bodies and adjusted the TPS, seemed to help the problem. Usually starts on the first pull, but once or twice when riding today i had to open the throttle again to get it to start.

The idle seems very unsteady. It is now either struggling to stay around 1750, with it dropping around 1000 every few seconds before it recovers. It either does that, or hangs at 2300-2500.

Any help would be appreciated.

HCM · Dec 30, 2013

Did I miss it did you do a compression test? if you did do you have a intake leak?

Ckale · Dec 30, 2013

Checked compression when installing turbo, it was good.

Im guessing an intake leak would be caused by worn o-rings? I also put in fresh o-rings when installing turbo. However I've had to take it apart a couple times trying to fix this problem, to install the new reeds and again to remove the throttle bodies to reset the tps. Each time they have been very well lubricated with grease. Would this be enough to cause a leak?

Boyko · Dec 30, 2013

Try cleaning your ground loops going to the chassis, I have seen this idling issue on a 2011 pro before and it was a corroded ground loop.

kanedog · Dec 30, 2013

You checked compression when you installed the turbo but you have a few rides on it. You need to check the compression. Sounds like the engine is a little hurt. Pistons or ringland.

Ckale · Dec 30, 2013

I'll check both of those things and report back.

Ckale · Dec 30, 2013

For what its worth, when it is idling the afr numbers are stupid lean, usually showing 22.4 when its struggling to stay running. If i blip the throttle, it will increase to 2400 or so, and the afr numbers will hang around 17. It will either hang at this rpm until I shut it off, or it will go back into struggling.

I'm not sure how accurate the afr sensor is at idle, and I recently calibrated it. Maybe this will be of help.

Boyko · Dec 30, 2013

I would try to get a fuel pressure reading off it.

Ckale · Dec 30, 2013

Is there a good way to get a fuel pressure reading?

On a side note, I was also considering these...:face-icon-small-hap

Boyko · Dec 30, 2013

2011 fuel return hoses feature an inline Schrader
valve that can be used to bleed the fuel system pressure
and observe fuel system pressure when using the fuel
pressure gauge and specified adapter.

Took this from the 2011 manual, the dice might be just as good.

Good luck with it dude, chances are one simple thing is the problem.

Ckale · Dec 30, 2013

I'll look into this procedure in my service manual. Is this the valve on top of the fuel pump by the connections to the fuel lines?

Thank you for the help btw.

Ckale · Dec 30, 2013

Found the procedure. Thank you

Ckale · Dec 31, 2013

Checked the fuel pressure, a consistent 60psi just like the service manual recommends. Checked it with both the dobeck box connected and disconnected, no difference either way.

However, I have found that without the controller connected, it idles much easier. It does not struggle idling, but it does stay around 2100-2200 rpm. (at least it is consistent)

If i hook the box back up, it again struggles to idle.

Bad dobeck box?

BTW, checked the compression again today. After running for a minute or two, coolant around 70 degrees or so, got exactly 100 psi on both cylinders. Not exactly a good reading, however I am at 8000ft testing this and this could also be due to the tester. The two cylinders were almost dead exactly the same though.

Also cleaned the ground connections, no noticeable change, but couldn't hurt.

Wanted to see if it was a power issue, so hooked up a power source to the diagnostic power plug while it was running (struggling), and no change was seen. So this should rule out that it is a power issue. I have also disconnected the guages and afr while it is running to see if this causes any change due to power, no change.

skibreeze · Dec 31, 2013

100 PSI is about normal for that elevation.

Ckale · Jan 1, 2014

skibreeze said:
100 PSI is about normal for that elevation.

Awesome, good to know thank you.

EZmoney · Jan 1, 2014

What do you mean idles much eassier? it idles or it doesnt?? To me Your tps is still out from what your describing
With the throttle blades closed , so set screw on the right hand side of throttle biddies loosened right off should be .698 volts. When that is set and throttle cable tightened back up should read . 938 to .941

carms · Jan 1, 2014

hold the throttle wide open and give it a couple pulls..it will start up!!

jeepin270 · Jan 1, 2014

If it idles fine w/o the box plugged in, I would think that there is a problem with the box. You could probably send it to dobek directly to get it checked out.

Silber Turbo not starting after running

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