Problem with Silber turbo kit.

joshkoltes · Jan 8, 2012

mine ran pertty good, just has a weird rattle coming from somewhere?? i need to get on someone elses and see if i still hear it
the vid is in the horns on crappy snow obviously
current bumps:
1 its a bear to start sometimes. three times today it took two of us to start it. one on the throttle and one on the rope?
later in the day it developed an idleing problem, starts chugging till it dies? i suppose i can just raise the idle with the cable, or is the box fueling too soon causing the idle issue and the "flooding" on startup issue?
2 rpm vs boost. in west i could only get 7800 rpm wot in a pull, i assume i can up the boost to raise rpm especially since the guage was only showing just over 5 lbs. seems no matter how much i turn the boost knob the gauge dosnt gain lbs? nor do i gain rpm? i really started cranking on the knob to see if any changes would happen, i think it gained but it was so rough out everywhere its hard to tell
think the af reads 14.7 at idle and 13.7 wot 14-15 cruise i should really wright things down as they happen

79.5 grams
7-9 lbs maby
full av
i guess the next thing is to take out weight, probably 3 grams?

Boston Racing · Jan 8, 2012

^^^Page not found

Boston Racing · Jan 8, 2012

What altitude do you ride at? I run 73 grams on 10 pounds at 8000 feet and turn up the boost to keep the rpm's at 8100-8200 or so.

I usually crack the throttle a bit when starting. Usually starts within 2 pulls. I pull it with my left arm and crack the throttle with my right. My unscientific opinion is it takes X amount of power to fire the sled. You now have additional draw and without the battery it may take more pulling to charge the capacitor.

Eli · Jan 8, 2012

friscospices.com said:
These settings you are offering up for a 2012 Silber kit?

These settings are from my dragon experiences which are congruent with Silber info..... From his website.....

"Red Blue mode is the RPM activation mode for the solid red light. Lowering this light will turn the Red mode on at a lower RPM, Raising the light will turn the Red mode on at a higher RPM. This mode disables yellow mode and yellow blue mode. Its important to not lower this light setting to much or you may experience a bog during on and off throttle activity. This is because when the red mode turns on it shuts your fuel pull mode off. Adjust this mode so you can go from WOT to nothing back to WOT without any bogging or activating the DET light."

Here us the detailed info....

http://www.silberturbos.com/tuning

Eli

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Boston Racing · Jan 8, 2012

It's odd to have to go that high on the red/blue.

friscospices.com · Jan 8, 2012

dragon numbers with a different turbo

joshkoltes · Jan 8, 2012

Boston Racing said:
What altitude do you ride at? I run 73 grams on 10 pounds at 8000 feet and turn up the boost to keep the rpm's at 8100-8200 or so.

I usually crack the throttle a bit when starting. Usually starts within 2 pulls. I pull it with my left arm and crack the throttle with my right. My unscientific opinion is it takes X amount of power to fire the sled. You now have additional draw and without the battery it may take more pulling to charge the capacitor.

im way over weighted. was going off peoples suggestions who were over revving 80 grams at 6000 ft, i do try the hold the throttle and pull trick but seems it just dosnt work sometimes untill i can get a full powerd pull while somone holds the throttle.
but still has the weird idle

looking at things it seems the airbox is leaking around the throttle bodies, there is oily leakage around it

Boston Racing · Jan 8, 2012

There are some magic ones out there that pull huge weight. My 2012 must have been built on a Friday :face-icon-small-hap

joshkoltes · Jan 8, 2012

diff

yeah every motor is a little different

gmustangt · Jan 8, 2012

joshkoltes said:
im way over weighted. was going off peoples suggestions who were over revving 80 grams at 6000 ft, i do try the hold the throttle and pull trick but seems it just dosnt work sometimes untill i can get a full powerd pull while somone holds the throttle.
but still has the weird idle

looking at things it seems the airbox is leaking around the throttle bodies, there is oily leakage around it

That was me , my sleds pullin that 4-6k... At 6#.

Going to turn it up to 10# for next time... May need to get heavier base arm if I wanna run more boost.

Eli · Jan 8, 2012

friscospices.com said:
dragon numbers with a different turbo

Once again, from Silber's website....
Polaris Turbo Attitude Fuel Control Box Base Settings

Green 4

Yellow 2

Red 2

Green Blue 6

Yellow Blue 4.5

Red Blue 5.5

So his base setting is single red 2 and red/blue 5.5 Don't think I'm too far off that.
Justin also says not to go too low on the red/blue due to bog or DET when on and off the throttle. DET when going to boost is the symptom the original poster is having.....

Oh yes, I used to have a 2860 and haven't hardly changed any numbers. Same symptoms with the 2860 as the bigger turbos.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Boston Racing · Jan 8, 2012

That was for the older dragon kits. He has a different basemap now that uses different default settings.

Eli · Jan 8, 2012

Maybe a different basemap, but he just updated the setting symptoms this summer....

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sunvang · Jan 9, 2012

friscospices.com said:
I would leave everything and raise your yellow up for more fuel on quick throttle movements. When you stab it wot from a dead stop how is its performance?

Moving from dead stop to wot it runs great, most of the times. Sometimes i will hit dET around 6-7000rpms. Thinking that it might be something i need to adjust for high speed cruise, since it sometimes can jump from 14-15 to 17 for a quick moment. And that's not good.

Sunvang · Jan 9, 2012

Boston Racing said:
What altitude do you ride at? I run 73 grams on 10 pounds at 8000 feet and turn up the boost to keep the rpm's at 8100-8200 or so.

I usually crack the throttle a bit when starting. Usually starts within 2 pulls. I pull it with my left arm and crack the throttle with my right. My unscientific opinion is it takes X amount of power to fire the sled. You now have additional draw and without the battery it may take more pulling to charge the capacitor.

Running 1600ft to a max of 4000ft.

Mine almost everytime start on second pull. And the warning light comes on while driving, not when starting. And if i give it a little throttle and gets up on the rpm it goes away.

friscospices.com · Jan 9, 2012

Sunvang said:
Moving from dead stop to wot it runs great, most of the times. Sometimes i will hit dET around 6-7000rpms. Thinking that it might be something i need to adjust for high speed cruise, since it sometimes can jump from 14-15 to 17 for a quick moment. And that's not good.

That is normal for mine, as soon as you have the engine load it pulls fuel giving you a true AFR. If the engine doesnt have a pull the AFR reading are going to be a bit leaner. Remember all of these machines run a bit lean on lower RPM's you need to have throttle movement all the time to keep it in good fuel. Just cruising down the trail at one steady throttle will show lean conditions and possible DET just blip the throttle to keep fuel in it.

Sunvang · Jan 9, 2012

Cant see your post, free member limit reached. Starting another thread.

friscospices.com · Jan 9, 2012

Guess he needs to become a member? Is it really that big of a deal WOW!

TurboMatt · Jan 9, 2012

Especially considering all the help he is receiving from this forum.

Sunvang · Jan 9, 2012

Can still read the posts by using TapaTalk, but cant post using it. But yes, I should definatly get a premium membership yes

Problem with Silber turbo kit.

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Similar threads