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Finished Silber install : high idle problems

2XM3

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Test the accessory plug, it should be hot ? another source you could use for 12v power is the feed to the headlight switch, that should always be hot 12v's.

Wonder ing at this point if plugging the oil pump into the ecu harness messes up the tps in some way ??
 
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Boston Racing

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It sounds like the original problem was the oil pump plugged into the ECU harness causing it to do weird things. The TPS may be off now just because of all the troubleshooting. Maybe a trip to the dealer to reset the TPS is in order.
 

SSABMUD

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My TPS was way off they said and it is being covered by Polaris. Not sure why the sled idled fine before the turbo but it could be because more air is being put into the engine even at idle. Had them set the belt clearance to .020 while it was there. Hope you find your problem Matt. Is your throttle cable running between the rad hose and discharge hose?
 
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TurboMatt

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My TPS was way off they said and it is being covered by Polaris. Not sure why the sled idled fine before the turbo but it could be because more air is being put into the engine even at idle. Had them set the belt clearance to .020 while it was there. Hope you find your problem Matt. Is your throttle cable running between the rad hose and discharge hose?

My TPS was way off as well the 1st time I checked it. My sled idled perfect, ran hard and went in reverse all the time before I touched it for the turbo install. It kinda makes me think that the TPS adjustment isn't as precise/important as some make it out to be.
I'm hoping I get a chance to work on it again this weekend sometime. Will update when I do.
 
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TurboMatt

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Well, I got the sled all back together with the turbo on. I didn't find anything that was obviously wrong. I checked everything over real good. I went ahead and just adjusted the idle down manually till it was idling at about 1800(pain the a** with all the turbo stuff in the way). It seems to hold pretty decent there, maybe fluctuates up and down a little but much better than it was. We don't have any snow here so I didn't get to drive it. I did run it on the track stand for awhile, brapped on it pretty good. There don't seem to be any bogs or anything, the sled goes in reverse just fine now & it seems to return to 1800ish rpm's pretty decent. I guess I'm gonna try running it like this and if its good I'll run 'er like this. I still don't understand why I was having this issue.
 

2XM3

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hope it works out well, gotta think the ecu/oil pump deal caused something to happen, but as with electronics who knows. How far did you have to turn your throttle screw btw? They are a pain, made a special allen wrench for the dragons screw..hard to reach as well, then figure the locknut and the locktite...arghhhhhhhhhh sucked
 
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TurboMatt

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hope it works out well, gotta think the ecu/oil pump deal caused something to happen, but as with electronics who knows. How far did you have to turn your throttle screw btw? They are a pain, made a special allen wrench for the dragons screw..hard to reach as well, then figure the locknut and the locktite...arghhhhhhhhhh sucked

I kinda lost track of how much I actually turned it. It was more than I was expecting though. Prob a full turn.

Also, on the note of where to plug in the oil pump. That plug that says AC PWR up by the handlebar harness on the 2011's is actually a AC test plug. It says so right in the factory service manual. I tested it, you don't get 12vdc out of it, It won't run the oil pump. BUT, right next to the plug that says ecu pwr by the clutch there is another plug that says DC PWR. I musta missed that before, but thats were my oil pump is powered from now. I really don't think plugging the pump into the ecu pwr plug has anything to do with my issues.
fingers crossed....I'm hoping its fixed...time will tell
 

2XM3

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Ah...good to know about the plugs !! I wonder if for some reason the throttle blades of some sleds tend to be adjusted a tad on the open side, then if they set the tps to that in order for the idle to be correct, this then would cause higher than normal idle with the turbo now increasing the low level air pressure in the airbox. Cause we are now drawing off of a "closed" system regulated by flow through the turbo.

It would be nice to have a spec on the throttle blade opening in thousands of a inch and check yours now to see if its correct as far as what is called for.
Figure the little screw is fine thread, probably around 32 tpi so 1 turn is .030" movement of the lever, I have a set of throttle bodies on the shelf right now and i'll look into this a bit.
It would be really nice to know, lets say, that .005 was the correct blade opening for the turbo so as to check and set this when throttle body was on the bench.
I know on my porsche Fi motors the opening is critical and once you set it its a done deal as the ecu sets idle rpm, but if its off either way , you have real problems as it can't compensate.
On the dragon 1/2 turn made a big difference in the idle.(300 rpm)
 
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TurboMatt

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I'm no genious (obviously, since I can't make sense of this damn thing LOL) but to me it looked like the blades were open farther than I was expecting when I set them strictly off my TPS. I'd say there was about a .03" ish gap. Then I adjusted them closed from there to get my idle down. My reverse still works so it can't to too far out.
I am curious of your finding on the tb's on the shelf so please post back. Unfortunately, if the sled runs fine I'm not taking it apart just for the sake of checking the gap!!!haha. Interesting to talk about though.
 

2XM3

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i'll post as soon as i check it...for some reason .0015-.002 sticks in my old feeble brain

OK just checked it, first off there are 2 screws, black one with white mark and locknut moves BOTH throttle blades, silver screw with spring under it moves mag side blade only.

.002 guage under blade...very very slight drag..both sides equal
.0015 slips free both sides
.003 tight drag under blades
.004 trapped can't move it

So i'd start at .002 both sides equal...perhaps even .0015 , So if you can get a .004 guage in there its def open to far IMHO

thing is the mag side can move indepandant of the pto side so you could have 1 blade out of adjustment...arghhhhhhhhh
 
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TurboMatt

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Thanks for posting that info 2XM3, thats very good to know. Next time I have things aparts OR if I'm still having problems I will check that out for sure. I didn't actually measure it when I had it back apart this last time but I know here was at least a .02 -.03" gap when I set it off the tps. Which is obviously significantly more than the .002 you posted.
Ill post back after I actually get to drive the sled to see if my issue is solved
Thanks for all your help.

Oh and one more thing. Silber says that the control box is actually pulling fuel at idle and also anytime below 3500rpm, so that's why it idled slightly different when I unhooked it, just wanted to throw that out there because it was previously posted otherwise.
 
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