M1000 High rpm studder, like a rev limiter????

WyoBoy1000 · Mar 1, 2010

Sled and mods are listed below.
Half way through the day my m1000 started studdering when you pin it, not at first but after it hits full rpm for 3-5 sec. Pulls real hard at the start but a few sec after you start a pull it then start this act like its hitting a rev limiter, around 72-7700rpm (my clutching was a little off thus the wide range of rpm) Any one had this happen and any ideas what it is. I'm leaning toward the injectors cutting out but ????? First thing will be to disconnect fuel controllers and then all other switches, but it would be nice if I didn't have to waste a day figuring it out.

Also my thumb warmer and right hand warmers are dead, i think because the throttle block got twisted(last year) and the wires/sodder finally gave out. Thumb warmer has not worked for a while and never had the problem but I think it started around the same time the right hand warmer quit( can't be for sure because it was warm out), I will have to look into it when I get a chance but wouldn't think its the cause.
This is also right after a new crank.

I know there are many reasons it could do this but if anyone has had this exact thing happen it would be nice to know, thanks.

markoo · Mar 1, 2010

You can rule out the rev limiter. I run mine at 7900 and it still doesn't hit the limiter. How are your plug boots. Is there any arcing on the top of the plugs? Are your coils bolted down tight. Look for bare wires or a loose ground. That's all I got for now.

knzee · Mar 1, 2010

Loose ground?

Might see if you can put someone out in front of you when you get into it and see if you head light is flickering...sounds like a electrical issue or bad ground. Maybe the wiring harness got pinched when you put the motor back in.

WyoBoy1000 · Mar 1, 2010

never thought it was a rev limiter, just a way to describe what was happening. Highly doubt a pinched wire, but rubbed wires I could see(happens eventually) the sled has about 1400 miles, I think the wiring should be holding up, leaning more towards a loose connection or bad fuel box. before the ride all grounds where good. If my lights flicker the gauge should to and it doesn't. The spark plug boots are good, some rubbing on the wires but not through and I moved them a little and there was no diff.. When it misses (or whatever you call it, would be like the kill switch grounding for a split second) My egts jump 10-15 degrees??? The other thing that makes me think its not a short is that it is consistent and might get a hair worse the longer you hold it. It's either spark or fuel but there are many variables. On the trail I can hit about 60-70 mph before it does it and then can't get much over 80. I can do all the trouble shooting so its going to come down to that unless someone has experienced it before. Thanks for the replies.

fasta76 · Mar 2, 2010

Im assuming you never had a engine light flash! I was thinking it might be the detonation sensor going off? My m8 did the same thing and it was my sensor.

knzee · Mar 2, 2010

m1000

I didn't think the 1000 has a det sensor...

9.90 Camaro · Mar 2, 2010

High End Stutter

My Nephew's Sled Is A 07 M1000 And It Started Doing That One Day On A Ride Half Way Thru The Day And 2 Rides Later The Stator Sh!t The Bed And We Towed It Out!!!! But It Started Just On The High End Then Just Before It Quit And Wouldnt Run It Was Cutting Out Just Off Idle Hope This Helps!!

WyoBoy1000 · Mar 2, 2010

9.90 Camaro said:
My Nephew's Sled Is A 07 M1000 And It Started Doing That One Day On A Ride Half Way Thru The Day And 2 Rides Later The Stator Sh!t The Bed And We Towed It Out!!!! But It Started Just On The High End Then Just Before It Quit And Wouldnt Run It Was Cutting Out Just Off Idle Hope This Helps!!

This is my fear. As the stator was removed and reinstalled could have broke some wires or something.

No det sensor on the m1000.

BCP · Mar 2, 2010

Exhaust temp sensor will make it act funny like that for sure . . . did on mine. Should throw a code 17, yet mine didnt at 1st, should read 0ohms or infinity ohms to work correctly. If not that then get to a dealer with a diagnostic system for the 1000 two stroke. Had a 1200 and a 1000 that where having similar issues and 1 had a injector malfunction and the other a servo malfunction which couldnt be found without the system. Cleared both codes and breifly fixed the problem - then had to find out what caused it, which where both self caused problems!!!!

my.02 Good luck!

WyoBoy1000 · Mar 2, 2010

What do you mean buy self caused problems.

BCP · Mar 2, 2010

1200 we where having some issues with the injectors/boondocker, not knowing that at first I started to play with everything else trying to eliminate areas and ended up tying open the servo motor not realizing that this cant be done without a bypass and that put the sled into limp mode for us (7500 max rpm). the 1000 was a similar issue of trial and error - sorry I cant remember the code/malfunction that we found at that time, yet the pipe sensor has been an on going issue with this sled - I think 5 or more now, although it has gotten better by the suggestion of someone on here to tie the wire back to itself to help settle the vibration in the sensor.

The program is sweet, my dealer let me take it home to use, plug it in to the sled hook it up to a 12V battery plug in your VIN and check past and present codes, max rpms at all levels of temp, run the machine while hooked up to varify operations - - very neat system - tough to get help from cat on why or what some codes mean though!! Lets you clear and pin point problems and saves a TON of time and headaches - not all dealers have them which is too bad!

WyoBoy1000 · Mar 2, 2010

So my sled could be in limp mode? Is there a manual way to reset/clear the codes.

BCP · Mar 2, 2010

Very possible - pulls good on the bottom and then seems to run into a wall? At a given rpm, before the limiter as you call it kicks in, say 7000rpm doesnt feel as fast as it used to, then by the sounds of it I would say yes. Plugs will be black as a no moon midnight while in limp mode. I do not believe there is anyway to manually clear the problem, you can take a box from another 1000 and run it to see if that cleans it up yet you pose the risk of creating the same code issue on that box as well. I extended alot of tunner resources chaseing our last issue and it came down to using the computer system again, only ones who can answer that are the cat mechanics/dealers or someone with more knowledge on here!

fasta76 · Mar 2, 2010

I was told on the 07 you just press and hold the reverse button for 7-10 seconds and it will clear the codes? Not sure if it works or not?

BCP · Mar 2, 2010

I do believe there is a deal like that, which will clear the code/s! Good call fasta76

WyoBoy1000 · Mar 2, 2010

Not so much run into a wall, it would keep pulling.
At the end of the day running back to the truck it would pull up to 7500 and work up to 7700 but after a few seconds, studder and drop back to 7500 and keep pulling back up to rpm but keep doing it. I doubt the plugs will be dark as the egts still climb past 1150 pretty easy.

I never did see a wrench or anything abnormal.

dmkhnr · Mar 2, 2010

I would calibrate the tps with the powercommander. If your stock tps is out a little, the powercommander could cause a lean condition up top thus throwing the knock sensor as described.

DwayneC · Mar 2, 2010

theres no knock sensor on a m1000

gopher-it! · Mar 2, 2010

studder

same sled ,porting ,speedwerx pipe, pc3, mine does this when it goes lean. runs great for a few seconds at wot then starts to studder or pop. give it fuel away it goes.

WyoBoy1000 · Mar 2, 2010

it did pop once. where did you add fuel.

M1000 High rpm studder, like a rev limiter????

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Member

Well-known member

Member

Well-known member

Member

Well-known member

Member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Similar threads