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NEED HELP QUICK 06M7 with RKTEK 800bb

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03Firecatguy

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Mar 12, 2011
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Aberdeen SD
Just got to the Big Horns and the sled will not run. 06M7 with the RKTek 800bb, V-Force Reeds, Skins Ultra-Q and sno-pro air box. This was supposed to run fine without a tune but wont even move itself without wanting to die. I hooked up the boondocker and did +10 across the board just to see if it would go and it does. Has a small low end bog to it now, runs ok in the mid-range and never got to do any full throttle because we just ran out of daylight. When I back out of the throttle you can tell it is rich and starts to bog and then the engine light flashes code 6. After the light comes on it runs like crap which I'm assuming it goes way rich. Any numbers I should start with or what to do from here. No snow at home so there was no way to test it out so we drove 9hrs and it doesnt run so any help would be more than greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
 

likkerpig

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Snow or not, it's worth a trip across the yard or field just to make sure it actually runs. But we can't fix that now so let's look at fixing it.

I *think* the ECU code 6 is power valves, not to state the obvious, but are they installed the right way?
Are the cables hooked into the barrel on the motor or did they come loose?
Do you have another ECU you can switch out and test with?
Is the clear Barometric tube coming off the ECU plugged?
Are the plug caps on tight or are they worn?
Fresh gas?

This isn't the cause of the problems, but with the modded intake, you will likely need to add fuel so keep the boondocker hooked up.
 

snosurfer

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Oct 30, 2008
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Check everything Likkerpig suggested those are all possibilities, but if it's your fuel controller you are going to have to mess with it. First of all you should set everything back to "0" and start from there. If you set everything to 10+ you are going to be dumping a ton of fuel in it across the board and it will load up like crazy. When you add fuel with the boondocker, only add 1 or 2 on the + or minus at a time, the higher the number the longer the injector stays open, at the given rpm you are setting it on. How much you add or sub. at any given rpm interval is directly related to your fuel pressure and what it might require at that fuel pressure, that's why no one likes to give out fuel # because no to sleds are alike to many variables. That being said, Kelsy recommended to me on my BB to add fuel only in the 7200 to 7800 range +2 or +3 and everything else to stay at 0. I tried that and it fell flat on it's face every time I gave it gas. I then added a little fuel at the 6500 rpm range at the mid and high location and the thing ran great, it doesn't take much adding or subtracting at different intervals to change the results a lot. My suggestion (if you already haven't ) is to give Kelsy a call, he is always super helpful and he knows "his stuff" or keep messing with it till you get it close. Sorry I couldn't be more help, but I've been there done that. :face-icon-small-sho
 

Thunder101

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stock pipe? +3 in the 72-78 range every were else 0. as said check the cables at servo
 
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dp2826

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Dec 31, 2007
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This is copied from RKT's website.

(This kit can be run WITHOUT an EFI control box (i.e. Boondocker Box)!! We have spent countless hours developing this kit so it can be ran with the stock fuel mapping. This is only the case when using the stock pipe and stock silencer. If any aftermarket pipe/pipes or silencers are used, then a fuel control is required. This kit runs on 91 octane PUMP GAS!)

If you want to run it without the control box I would use a stock setup as he suggests. Looks like it doesn't say anything about intake mods but I would think that should be stock too to run without the fuel box.
 
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03Firecatguy

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Mar 12, 2011
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Aberdeen SD
Power valve cables are brand new, going to check the servo to make sure they are operating in a few minutes. Yes it is stock pipe. I had to add +10 just to get the sled to move off idle. There is no way I can set things to zero. When I had it at Zero it wouldt move under its own power at all. Fresh fuel is in the sled too, plug wires and caps are good. We did bring a backup M7 that I could try swapping ECU's with. No the hose is not plugged.
 

Chewy22

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Below are some numbers from RK's web sight with difference pipe setups, but stock intake with both options. Would not think a sno-pro intake would make that big of a difference. Not to state the obvious but something seems off, should run w/ no controller. I'd try swapping the cans along with the ECUs

M7-M8 Big Bore Boon-Docker Box Settings

RK Tek Head, Speedwerx Single pipe, Stock Can
3000: 0 0 0 0
5000: 0 0 0 0
6700: 0 0 0 0
7800: 0 0 3 1
8100: 0 0 3 1


NOTE: These are the numbers we ran. You numbers can vary based on other mods and Fuel Rail Pressure. These numbers are not “Set in Stone”

M7-M8 Big Bore Boon-Docker Box Settings

RK Tek Head, SLP Twin Pipes, Ported
3000: 0 0 0 00
5000: 2 4 0 00
6700: 2 8 10 00
7800: 0 8 16 00
8100: 0 8 16 00


NOTE: These are the numbers we ran. You numbers can vary based on other mods and Fuel Rail Pressure. These numbers are not “Set in Stone”
 

likkerpig

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Ultra q can is different than the super q- I believe the super q is recommended. Ultra may not flow enough for the motor.

Powervalve cables could be out of spec- know they are new but is the cable adjusted properly?

Thinking about this last night, is it possible that the fuel pickup smart valves are stuck shut or is there water in the fuel causing them to freeze? Just more ideas!
 

likkerpig

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Totally agree- just brainstorming on ideas to try and help out a guy on vacation so its not totally ruined!
 

snosurfer

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Oct 30, 2008
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Another thought, sounds like it's running in limp mode? Are all your grounds connected especially the one for the boondocker? Have you removed the flywheel lately, if so you could have miss aligned the keyway and throw the timing off just more thoughts good luck!
 
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03Firecatguy

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Mar 12, 2011
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Aberdeen SD
Sorry, it is a Skins Super-Q, not the ultra. Ground for the boondocker is good. I unhooked the boondocker and it still ran the same as with the boondocker on 0 all across. New problem though, the damn thing wouldnt even fire this morning. Nothing at all, but its getting spark and the lights try to come on when trying to start it. With a person off of the sled it would try to move on 0, but with any load or as soon as you step on the boards it goes away. I'm on a backup M7 so its not completely a ruined vacation, but want nothing more than to ride my sled.

What exactly is code 6 for an 06M7??? I know for the 08's and up it is for the water temp sensor short to ground, but if that was the case and it was flashing that code why would it richen up so much?

I never messed with the timing key. It used to be Zone28M7's sled but every time I have asked him a question about what has been done to it when I have questions I've basically been told to get lost so who know there. Doubt its in the motor, just looking at other possiblities.

Fuel pressure is over 40.
 
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RKT

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Sorry, it is a Skins Super-Q, not the ultra. Ground for the boondocker is good. I unhooked the boondocker and it still ran the same as with the boondocker on 0 all across. New problem though, the damn thing wouldnt even fire this morning. Nothing at all, but its getting spark and the lights try to come on when trying to start it. With a person off of the sled it would try to move on 0, but with any load or as soon as you step on the boards it goes away. I'm on a backup M7 so its not completely a ruined vacation, but want nothing more than to ride my sled.

What exactly is code 6 for an 06M7??? I know for the 08's and up it is for the water temp sensor short to ground, but if that was the case and it was flashing that code why would it richen up so much?

I never messed with the timing key. It used to be Zone28M7's sled but every time I have asked him a question about what has been done to it when I have questions I've basically been told to get lost so who know there. Doubt its in the motor, just looking at other possiblities.

Fuel pressure is over 40.

If you have fuel pressure, swap out injectors.. VERY easy to change out, will take about 20 minutes.. Swap them with the loaner M7..

If the servo is bad, the sled will go limp and hardley move as well. This can be swapped out very fast as well..

Can't tell ya for sure what it is... but I can tell ya what it is NOT.. But I would start with the injectors
Other thought, and I have seen this a few times.. Is that people get over zealous with the zip ties on the injector wires onto the fuel rail.. I have seen where this gfrounds out the injectors.. So, disconnect ALL the zip ties around the injectors and fuel rail..

Give it a shot...
 
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03Firecatguy

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Mar 12, 2011
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OK, all zip ties are gone on fuel rail. Swapped the Power Valve servo's and swapped the ECU all off the other sled. I do have spark and replaced the plugs. The only way to get it to fire now is spraying crap in the intake. So we were going to swap injectors and realized that all the screws to take them out are stripped. When we were back at home we checked fuel pressure and it was just over 40 off one pull and I did have it running after that and when we got up here. All the fuel is fresh. I'd assume the fuel pump is ok then but who knows. But I'm thinking either its the pump or injectors. Any more thoughts? Boondocker is unhooked also.
 
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RKT

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Verify that you still have fuel pressure and then swap out the injectors 1 at a time.. Also make sure that your fuel rail is not plugged.. I think you will find your problems in this area.. Bummer for sure!
 

Thunder101

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"Also make sure that your fuel rail is not plugged.."
just curious , with what ?
 
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03Firecatguy

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Mar 12, 2011
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Aberdeen SD
Well it just officially turned into a parts sled today so I will have to worry about it when I get back home and get my parts back.
 
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03Firecatguy

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Mar 12, 2011
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Aberdeen SD
Started looking into it again tonight. First rope pull= 10lbs fuel pressure
Second pull=20lbs after the 4th pull I had 30lbs. So I was thinking a bad fuel pump. Took an 18V battery and jumped the pump and it put out 48lbs. So am I right to assume its the stator? What voltage should I get from the stator anyways? I will check that before I buy anything. Sled has 23XX miles on it.
 

Thunder101

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Yes that sounds like a stator. seach "blaine" on here or hcs. he has a step by step for testing stators. i dont think the voltage reg would do that but test it also. good luck
 
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