2016 Not Running Right

check TSS

Fuel pump. That’s what mine did last year. It also starts making a whining sound.

First step would be to diagnose what’s causing the check engine light to come on. You can either try and retrieve the trouble code(s) by following the procedure in the manual or plug in to the Digital Wrench and retrieve codes that way. Often times, a good diagnostic tech can review the data on the DW and diagnose the issue.

make sure your throttle cable is adjusted correctly. they do stretch when new and usually need adjusted a few times in the first 300-500 miles. Too much slack will cause problems. The adjuster is in the cable, up by the bars, very easy to adjust.

DIAGNOSTIC DISPLAY
the instrument cluster can display diagnostic trouble codes {DTCs} when, and only when, the check engine MIL is illuminated.
to display DTCs follow these steps:


1. when an active DTC is realized, the check engine MIL will illuminate.



NOTE:
the instrument cluster will display historic DTCs, but only during the same power cycle. all codes stored in the instrument cluster are lost when the instrument cluster is powered down.


2. keep the engine running. press and release the SLE button on the instrument cluster or the SET switch on the LH control until the diagnostics mode is activated. once activated, the check engine MIL will begin flashing and "Err" will be displayed on the screen.


3. the diagnostics mode will display the SPN and FIM codes. a list of codes can be found in chapter 4.


4. to check for multiple codes, press and hold the SLE button on the instrument cluster for 2 seconds until a new code is displayed. repeat until no new codes are displayed.


5. to exit the diagnostic mode, either turn off the engine or press and release the SLE button on the instrument cluster.


post up the codes and the next time im sitting still ill look them up for you....or someone will theirs a lot of good people on the sight

the check engine indicator light...
this indicator appears if an EFI-related fault occurs. do not operate the snowmobile if this warning appears. serious engine damage could result. see your dealer. see diagnostic display code definitions page.
that's all it says???
(DTCS)-AXYS
#1. tps
#2 intake air temp sensor
#3 barometric pressure sensor
#4engine temp sensor
#5DC chassis voltage
#6 exhaust temp sensor
#7fuel injector mag
#8fuel injector pto
#9knock sensor
#10ignition coil primary driver mag
#11fuel pump driver circuit
#12knock DET level mag
#13knock DET level pto
#14sensor supply voltage 1 TPS/TMAP
#15electronic oil pump
#16ECU output supply voltage fuel injector power (16v)
#17ECU output supply voltage ground speed sensor (5v)
#18throttle release signal
#19exhaust valve solenoid (600 only)
#20load shed relay
#21battery charge relay battery-equipped models only
#22oil pump or fuel injector settings not programmed
#23ground speed pulses per mile not programmed
#24exhaust valve actuator 800 ho only (PWM converter-diagnostics)
#25EV actuator overheat condition 800 ho only
#26EV actuator learning default position 800 ho only
#27exhaust valve position out of range (open) 800 ho only
#28exhaust valve position out of range (mid) 800 ho only
#29exhaust valve position out of range (closed) 800 ho only
and last but not least #30 EV actuator/gauge relay
that's the list given that would illuminate the led check engine all of witch have SPN # FMI # and a P-code with them along with a "condition" to match the # given to help narrow down where the problem might be...some or the problems have 3 conditions depending on the SPN-FIM and P-code as to witch direction you would go to correct the problem....hope that helps you polaris900rmk the season is getting shorter but the days are getting longer

My vote

In my experience what you describe sounds like your pipe sensor is going bad. I'm on my third one. 2016 axys with 1800 ish miles. Check your display when the light is on it'll spit you the code #.

yea it could be as easy as a corroded plug or a wire that rubbed through as many of the "conditions" said to check for faulty plugs/pins or wirers. but if you just make the problem occur {don't shut the sled off} and then follow the first post, then post up the code or codes that are displayed on the screen I can look them up narrow them down for you and tell you what you are looking for to fix it...... but then again every rider in Oregon might thank you when you decide to leave it broke and the snow gods plop 3 ft of fluffy pow in your front yard so you can watch your boys tear it up o0O0Oono! I live in AK and theirs still 9ft of snow at the base of the mountain's and 2 1/2 ft in my front yard shooooooot let the flipper hit the bars and the skies point at the sky for at least another month....or 2 lol

Happened to me last week, wouldn't Rev past 6500, it was power valve failure, the brass bushings inside were toast, warranty is replacing the whole valve system.

I’d like to see pictures of that snobyrd.

diamonddave said:

I’d like to see pictures of that snobyrd.

Click to expand...

I don't have Picts, my dealer showed me the Picts and Thiers brass deposits inside the valve cover everywhere, they feared for a bit that it was from the brass washers on the crankshaft.
Iv got 2700 miles and dealer told me , they don't have any high millage sleds in Thier customer base, so I'm breaking new ground for them.