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15 m8000 chain case oil change/removal

W
Sep 26, 2014
46
8
8
Hi!! I am in the process of doing some off season maintenance/ inspection ... I looked up and found a link to cat country service manaual .. how to remove the chain case cover ect...it looks like I have to remove ( partially ) my skid plate to get to bottom bolts of the chain case ... is this correct ? Just want to make sure before I tear into it? Any advice / tips would be appreciated! Thanks
 

kiliki

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Dec 27, 2008
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Nampa, Idaho
Just take a drill and drill two holes right over the front of them about 3/8 if the holes aren't already not there
 
W
Sep 26, 2014
46
8
8
? How do you remove those bottom bolts ?
 

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XCaSSAULT

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Dec 9, 2016
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On my 15 there is two holes underneath right in line with the torx head bolts. Just enough room there to get the bit in there.

As for the torx heads...make damn sure u got the right size and get it in there flush and square before turning. I got all except 2 I had to notch for flat head cause they stripped. Then I went to hardware store and got stainless hex heads and threw away the damn torx:eyebrows:
 

boondocker97

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I'd probably drill holes in the skid plate like kiliki said. They say to remove it so you can use the holes in the stock guard to access the bolts.

Side note: if you change out the torx bolts, you'll need some of the OEM ones around still if you ever have to change the chain case backer or do a MC drop and roll. The factory torx bolts have threads shaped to roll their own threads in the new parts. Results in stronger threads than tapping.
 
W
Sep 26, 2014
46
8
8
Good advice guys ... much appreciated... gonna hopefully tackle it this weekend... always hate those bottom bolts of the chain case cover.
 
D
Jan 2, 2009
86
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Coquitlam, BC
If you sled is stock, there is no drilling required. There already are holes aligned with these two bolts.

Also, easiest way is to remove the one torx holding the bottom side panel to the footwell brace. this will allow the side panel to flex outwards to get various lengths of torx to take out all the bolts. I use a ratchet with a few different extensions.
 
W
Sep 26, 2014
46
8
8
Easy .. peasy... just had to get the skid plate out of the way.. now I can get at those bottom bolts ?
 

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W
Sep 26, 2014
46
8
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Yesaaah! Mission accomplished! I used the wrench from the tool kit to start the loosening of the bolts... worked well . Now that I’m this far any recommendations... I am going to research about the tensioner mod ? I’m not ready for a belt drive yet but gears? I’m at sea level up to 3000’ ... already have clutching set up( backcountry from black diamond xterm )
 

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XCaSSAULT

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Dec 9, 2016
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Yesaaah! Mission accomplished! I used the wrench from the tool kit to start the loosening of the bolts... worked well . Now that I’m this far any recommendations... I am going to research about the tensioner mod ? I’m not ready for a belt drive yet but gears? I’m at sea level up to 3000’ ... already have clutching set up( backcountry from black diamond xterm )

I also am going to try the bdx back country kit. That and trying 21tooth top and 49tooth bottom. From my understanding the 12 and 13 m8000’s came with the 21-49 and cat change it to 19-50 to reduce belt/clutch heat. The bdx kit claims to reduce heat so I’ll take the extra track speed back. There’s a post somewhere on snowest with the part numbers for the 21-49 gears and they should work with the stock chain.

Complete hyvo kit is around $180, so u could go that route and manual tensioner adds another $110 (or whatever it is). For now I’m just going the part number route as I plan on mutliple multiple upgrades this summer like the 16 front end kit so I’ll be choicey in this case as the stock chain seems solid. (Although I’m sure someone will chime in and say otherwise) I’ll be in there once in a while to make sure all looks good anyway, and the new gears will be upgraded part number which are steel not aluminum like what’s in there now.

Oh and when I put mine back together I’m not sure if I added to much chaincase oil (think it’s the whole jug u buy from cat) and it leaked some through the drive shaft bearing. Or somethings not quit right with the gasket but ever since I’ve had small drops on the garage floor. So next time I’ll prolly add silicon at least to the bottom. I know on all my polaris experience silicon was a must. Just something to look out for
 
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