Bought pro 600 with bad engine... now what

Snowmow · Feb 24, 2018

Purchased a nice used 2012 pro 600 that just had new millennium replayed cyls, new oem Pistons, new reeds, high compression head, Kurt’s clutching and gear down and a Mbrp can installed 2 weeks (80) miles ago. Story is he finally thought the new parts were “broke in” and went to full throttle for several seconds, it was running awesome, sled cut out, he looked down and seen “det” on the gauge and boom she locked up!

I pulled it apart last night. Mag side piston had bad signs of det on outside edges, lots of flaked off pieces laying on top, pulled mag cylinder and the ALOT more pieces down in the case. Rod bearing is completely gone .

My question is, beings the cyls were both pretty much brand new and still look
Good, they have some straight vertical scratches but nothing you can catch a finger nail on. and the pto side still looks good as well and the head didn’t get any significant damaged either. Should I just go with a new crank and one new piston? Or just go with a Indy specialties complete motor?

Is it normal for just the mag side to get annihilated from det and leave the pto side un harmed? I’m not trying to be cheap. Just don’t want to replace things that don’t need to be.

05rmksteve · Feb 24, 2018

If top end is good just go with new oem pistons and crank. Check the bottom of the case for cracks. Hard to say what caused det poor fuel?

Snowmow · Feb 24, 2018

Snowmow · Feb 24, 2018

05rmksteve said:
If top end is good just go with new oem pistons and crank. Check the bottom of the case for cracks. Hard to say what caused det poor fuel?

I’m still waiting to hear what compression the high comp head that was installed was. But I’m assuming either bad fuel or not enough octane. The sled has the yellow plug in the “ethanol fuel” position.

Snowmow · Feb 24, 2018

Or there is this option ?

https://m.ebay.com/itm/13-14-15-POL...?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10&_mwBanner=1

05rmksteve · Feb 24, 2018

Polaris ran a couple different cases/electrical. The main difference was where the pulser coil mounts some where longer/raised than the other. So if looking for a new motor make sure it matches your current motor or you're wiring harness, fly wheel and pulser coils won't work.

05rmksteve · Feb 24, 2018

Those piston look like they have more than 80 miles on them!

Snowmow · Feb 24, 2018

Mag side cyl

Snowmow · Feb 24, 2018

Pto side

LoudHandle · Feb 24, 2018

Indy Specialties has my vote. For what you get and the piece of mind; it is an excellent value. IMO

Regardless, you need to figure out why she detonated. And that she was actually oiling. The recent rebuild is suspect as well, unless they just threw her together and did not ensure things were correct; clearances, oil, heat cycled, etc. etc.

Snowmow · Feb 24, 2018

LoudHandle said:
Indy Specialties has my vote. For what you get and the piece of mind; it is an excellent value. IMO

Regardless, you need to figure out why she detonated. And that she was actually oiling. The recent rebuild is suspect as well, unless they just threw her together and did not ensure things were correct; clearances, oil, heat cycled, etc. etc.

Thanks.

I paid $1200 for the whole thing, has a lot of good parts on it. All new clutching and gear down. Only 1500 miles on the whole sled. Really makes me wonder why this thing only made it 1400 miles before it needed a top
End. And then only makes it another 100 or less miles before this crap.

Snowmow · Feb 24, 2018

Was planning on sending injectors off for cleaning/testing. How do I assure that the oil pump is at least at the factory setting?

ak · Feb 24, 2018

That piston says rkt on the top of it that would be my first clue, get oem pistons.

ak · Feb 24, 2018

Also make sure your oil lines are not kinked 2012 600 models had a tsb for mag side oil line kink.

Octanee · Feb 24, 2018

Crazy weird damage on that one piston, is it the same side as the rod went out of?

Odd that one pistons bad, maybe a bad Injector? Hmm. I'd certainly have them cleaned.

Get a reman crank from somebody reputable, some pistons, stock? Or wiseco. If jugs have no. Scratches you can feel, run them. I sware every 2 stroke I've seen all has streaks in the cylinders from either not enough warm up, or some over heating or the various bit of dirt that finds its way through.

Snowmow · Feb 24, 2018

Octanee said:
Crazy weird damage on that one piston, is it the same side as the rod went out of?

Odd that one pistons bad, maybe a bad Injector? Hmm. I'd certainly have them cleaned.

Get a reman crank from somebody reputable, some pistons, stock? Or wiseco. If jugs have no. Scratches you can feel, run them. I sware every 2 stroke I've seen all has streaks in the cylinders from either not enough warm up, or some over heating or the various bit of dirt that finds its way through.

Yep. All damage was just on mag side. One bolt was missing from reed boot assembly on the mag side. Don’t think that would do it. All others were tight. Found out he was running 91 non eth from a good station. Still not sure on the ratio of the head though.

ak · Feb 24, 2018

I’ve ran the 13/1 head on 90 octane non ethanol at 500ft with no det on a 2013 600 pro.

It should say on the top of the domes what the ratio is if it’s a mds/par head.

goforbroke · Feb 25, 2018

I rebuilt a 600 with new top end and burned down 150 miles later. If I remember it was the crank seal that was bad, hence 2 burn downs.

Good luck finding the issue

05rmksteve · Feb 25, 2018

If you need a crank I can get you a new 1not remaned. for 650.00 with core 750.00 with out. Ill be heading to the horns lovell side this coming weekend and can bring 1 out with me.

Snowmow · Feb 25, 2018

05rmksteve said:
If you need a crank I can get you a new 1not remaned. for 650.00 with core 750.00 with out. Ill be heading to the horns lovell side this coming weekend and can bring 1 out with me.

Is this a OEM crank?

Bought pro 600 with bad engine... now what

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