Motor Mount Diagnosis

rowe · Oct 2, 2015

So what constitutes a bad motor mount on my 13 pro rmk? Can the rubber shift a bit with the weight of the motor or should they all be perfectly centered? Can they be shifted a bit but still be good if there is no gap between the outer rubber edge and the hole it sits in? I tried searching but couldn't find an answer.

TIA

rowe · Oct 9, 2015

Bump!! really thought somebody here would know lol!

Dirty Steve · Oct 9, 2015

I asked about this at the dealer today. They didn't seem to think it was an issue if it's not eating belts or the motor isn't moving alot.

They did not see the sled or pictures of it. They said to bring it in to be sure.

Here is a pic of my 2013 800 Switchback Assault with 1700 miles on it.

Compared to my 2015 800 Pro RMK with 220 miles on it.

I have not had any unusual belt wear on the SBA, but those mounts definitely caught my eye. I will probably just replace them.

Have you had belt trouble with yours?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Murph · Oct 9, 2015

Because buying the individual inserts doesn't cost that much money I typically try to replace those every season, or 1000 miles, whichever comes first.

My original 2011 which had a slightly different setup, was good until 1000 miles, then it started devouring belts at an alarming rate.

With the updated mounts, belt life returned to normal. Now I just swap them out.

Spaarky · Oct 9, 2015

I think a mount kit is $90. I would just swap them out.

adamg · Oct 9, 2015

Can I get the part number and quantity needed?

LoudHandle · Oct 10, 2015

3@ 3022409 MOUNT-ENGINE INSERT RAD $19.99 MSRP

1@ 3022426 MOUNT-ENGINE INSERT RAD,SMALL $19.99 MSRP

OR Buy the kit which comes with new bolts

1@ 2204633 Kit, Bolt, MY 12+ Engine Mount $95.99 MSRP

climncrazy · Oct 10, 2015

motor mounts

r just replacing the rubber mounts did not fix mine the cups they sit in where wore out also some thing to look at my sled also has 4000 miles on it
and is a 2012

gmustangt · Oct 10, 2015

Dirty Steve said:
I asked about this at the dealer today. They didn't seem to think it was an issue if it's not eating belts or the motor isn't moving alot.

They did not see the sled or pictures of it. They said to bring it in to be sure.

Here is a pic of my 2013 800 Switchback Assault with 1700 miles on it.

Compared to my 2015 800 Pro RMK with 220 miles on it.

I have not had any unusual belt wear on the SBA, but those mounts definitely caught my eye. I will probably just replace them.

Have you had belt trouble with yours?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Mine were like this on my 2013 with 0 miles , dealer swapped them out , still looked the same , we looked at a bunch of new sleds in the crate and they were the same , just how some of them are I guess.

LoudHandle · Oct 10, 2015

To get the most life out of the mounts; You really need to ignore the way Polaris tells you to align the engine by racking the mounts into an unnatural state. Instead drill the engine mount holes in the engine straps larger and move the engine on the straps to align the belt. Leaving the Mounts in the natural / neutral / centered position.

I'll look up a link to the thread where TRS outlines his way of acheiving engine mount nirvana.

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3863505#post3863505

His process with photos is post #40, the narrative is quoted below, note this thread has a lot of great insight into how to align the belt and getting it into the correct spec.

"Here is a sled that started out over 11.6" center to center and .110" of lead in. With all the motors I have checked, only one was within Polaris spec.
Started doing this with the delivery of the 2011 Pro. Thousands of miles without any bolt or strap failures to date.
This is a simple explanation of the process.
Booth straps were drilled out to .500". Straps are then mounted back on the engine loosely, followed by mounting the motor back into the chassis. Torque up the motor mount bolts and torque arm. This will put the motor straps in a neutral position, zero directional load. Adjust the motor to your spec. and tighten the motor strap bolts while in the chassis. I built a wrench to help facilitate the tightening, but standard will work. The recoil removed helps access the mag side. Recheck your measurements. Now you are ready to remove the socket head cap screws, lift the motor and torque the motor strap bolts. Bolt the motor back in and replace all the removed parts and you should be ready to ride.
When this sled was finished it was 11.516" center to center and .08" lead in. I like any where from 0.00"-.030" lead in."

rowe · Oct 10, 2015

Dirty Steve said:
I asked about this at the dealer today. They didn't seem to think it was an issue if it's not eating belts or the motor isn't moving alot.

They did not see the sled or pictures of it. They said to bring it in to be sure.

Here is a pic of my 2013 800 Switchback Assault with 1700 miles on it.

Compared to my 2015 800 Pro RMK with 220 miles on it.

I have not had any unusual belt wear on the SBA, but those mounts definitely caught my eye. I will probably just replace them.

Have you had belt trouble with yours?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Little hard to tell in the pics but looks like the top left of each rubber is not in contact with the metal? Maybe it's not an issue, I read the service manual and didn't see anything on how to tell if the mount is bad. I don't have my sled right now so I can't check my mounts yet but it's got 7800km on the stock mounts. Doesn't eat belts though, think I get around 1000km out of the polaris belts before it starts to pull cords and then I swap it out. Trying the gates belt this winter.

Not very expensive for all new mounts but I don't want to spend the money if it won't make a difference.

rowe · Oct 18, 2015

Bump

Still looking for an answer

LoudHandle · Oct 18, 2015

rowe said:
Bump

Still looking for an answer

Did you miss post #10? That is the only way to do it correctly IMO. FWIW

geo · Oct 19, 2015

Adding a bolt-on torque control on the PTO side helps those mounts live. Adding another as just a stop on the mag side helps some more.
Some terrain and riding styles can wear mounts quicker than others.

As LH was saying, alignment is a good way to check if mounts have gone. That is my method of checking. I set it from new and check it often.

Rowe, my mounts looked like yours from new and still looked the same 3 yrs later. If my preseason check shows alignment has changed I'll replace the mounts, set alignment and start again.
IMO the alignment part is the critical part but adding some support-help to those little rubber things was a "must do" for me too because of things I learned from ever other sled I owned because every manufacturer has to err on the side of engine vibration control instead of clutch performance unless you separate the two like Yamaha did for a while.

xj1978 · Dec 18, 2017

mounts

Can someone tell me if the mount inserts can be replaced without removing the motor from the sled?

jtpolaris · Dec 18, 2017

Yes they are replaced easily without pulling motor.

Solby · Dec 18, 2017

They are easy to change. I just did mine at 2000 miles on my 2014. The worst worn bushing was the rear mag side. It was definitely due.

AdrenalineAddict · Dec 21, 2017

You need to pull the clutch to access the front left mount. I have been replacing at ~1000 miles, the clutching is much more consistent with fresh mounts. For some reason the mag side mounts sack out quicker than the pto side, so don't forget to give them a look also. When my mounts look that way I replace them, a few other guys I know do the same or they start to have runability issues.

Sage Crusher · Dec 21, 2017

Don't forget to change the stock torque arm bushing at the same time!

Elkaholic4life · Dec 21, 2017

I changed mine About a month ago. I did not pull the clutch, it was a little tight but not that bad :face-icon-small-hap 2013 pro.

Motor Mount Diagnosis

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