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3" snowtech MX 129 / CR500

G
Nov 15, 2015
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Fargo
Post of my setup
I chose the snowtech MX adrenaline kit after studying all options. For the price I felt it is the best option on the market, roughly tied with CMX and cheaper and a bit behind the yeti. The construction is too knotch with:
aluminum anodized shafts
a full width jack shaft allowing right or left side drive options
Billet aluminum main frame
Large chain adjustment allowing me to run 13t to 15t on the same chain
Belt drive
3rd shock with 2 leverage settings that is compact and simple
Billet aluminum front spindle that is a jewel
Shallow approach angle and long rails
Very smooth swingarm style suspension that is built like a brick you know what
18" of rear axle travel
Nice billet brake caliper/bearing housing on the main driveshaft

My only complaint was the track, a maxtrak 1 that we all know about. I mostly ditch bang and ride river/riverbanks and treelines in the midwest and the hard wind blown snow made it a spin fest. On my basically stock cr500 it came in at 328# with a full tank, and is very fast and fun. So this year I decided to change the track. I purchased a skidoo 163x3 track and cut it down in a table saw to 12.4" wide
I also cut it to length of 43 bars or 129" exactly.

I bought Avid 6 tooth 3" pitch snowbike drivers which was able to use one anti-ratchet but the brake assembly made that side be a regular driver. THtis gave me about 3/10" of additional room. The snowtech kit can easily fit a 3" and I could probably sneak a 3.2" in with some creativity and a chain notch. The 3" is close to the chain and might not need a notch I won't know until it's mounted again.
 
G
Nov 15, 2015
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Fargo
Here the track is cut and shortened to length. It is very easy to cut the sides when it is opened up like this and took me just over 5 minutes by myself



7 tooth 2.86 yeti drivers




6 tooth avid 3" pitch installed. As you can see 2 different types. Also showing the billet brake and proximity to the right side driver. One other point is the brake disk is basically the exact same diameter as the 6 tooth driver



 
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G
Nov 15, 2015
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For test fitting today I simply set the track up and used screws to hold it together and pre drill the holes for the studs. I had to buy some new nylock nuts to use them. I first tried the track at 132" but I was just a hair long, so I cut one more off to 129". Mainly tried this because the pattern of the paddles worked out at 132 and now I have 2 center paddles in a row at 129. No big deal just one of those things.

This kit is very easy to assemble and dis-assemble since the machined tolerances are so close everything fits just perfect.

Here is the track installed for test fitting. You can see joint right in front of the rear wheels. I will be doing some work to minimize the transition here and testing it on my extra track piece to make it as good as it can be. Stay tuned for that



 
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V
Apr 8, 2016
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What if shape of connecting edge of the track (where it is go from 163 to 129 inches) make not straight, but N shape. In this case connecting will be made diagonally, and drive will pull track simultaneously for both side of connected track.
SORRY FOR RUSENGLISH.
 
G
Nov 15, 2015
259
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Fargo
What if shape of connecting edge of the track (where it is go from 163 to 129 inches) make not straight, but N shape. In this case connecting will be made diagonally, and drive will pull track simultaneously for both side of connected track.
SORRY FOR RUSENGLISH.


You could try it but I would rather do it with the straight cut. Not big on cutting the fiberglass bars in the center of track, I had thought about it also. My luck I would get a big stick jammed in there lol
 

roo

Active member
Premium Member
May 12, 2008
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sedro woolley WA
Nice work!
Really cool to see this being done and also facts about it working on higher h.p. machines over the years.
I have been wanting to shorten a 3" paddle track for my hawk and also shorten a 2" challenger extreme down to 105" for my wifes project.
I wanted to do it this way but my buddies said i was nuts.
Good job!
 
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G
Nov 15, 2015
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To minimize the joint I used a wire wheel on cordless grinder to remove about half of the rubber on each side. I had 4 nuts so I drilled he track and put that many studs in to show how minimal the joint effects the track






Here is the clearance to frame with 3". This can get milled down about 1/4" to give enough room for a 3.2" track as well. Doesn't look like I need a chain notch with the 3", if it does it will be 1/8" or so and will just let it wear in.




I have another of these tracks on the way as well so I will be cutting that one to the same dimensions
 
V
Apr 8, 2016
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You right about strait cut, at least it is look solid.
What was the reason to connect edges, where ice-snow will try to get in between, and not up side down? (easier on plastic sprocket and sliders by you method, I guess)
 
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stahlecker

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Jan 20, 2010
107
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Western NE
Splice

I've spliced a lot of belts in my job. Granted they are generally material conveying so drive sprockets and the driver windows are not an added hurdle. But I think I'd try to make a but splice vs the lap splice. So basically cut the track to 129" or whatever is required. Trim the lugs down smooth for the first say 6-8" on each side of the splice. Then cut a new piece of track (with the lugs possibly trimmed down) 12-18" and place it over top of the splice. Then bolt it down with your studs/ elevator bolts. This would allow the track to be smooth going over the drivers and slides. With the lugs trimmed just a bit no rubbing from clearance issues. And more "meat" holding the two track halves together.

So that's my 2 cents.
 

wellfed777

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Dec 1, 2007
2,226
412
83
Oregon
interesting...
if i'm understanding you correctly i'd be worried about the doubled up section being heavier and making a weird
feeling when moving fast ?
like a tire out of balance
 
G
Nov 15, 2015
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interesting...
if i'm understanding you correctly i'd be worried about the doubled up section being heavier and making a weird
feeling when moving fast ?
like a tire out of balance



It is nothing to worry about. Ill make a vid going to mount it up and test ride in the next week or 2


I also have considered a Flexco 375 hinge joint and just carry an extra pin for it, should work fine I have put plenty of them on elevator belting. this is just so easy and is more than strong enough.


One thing funny is when you use spliced tracks you can keep a couple different ones around and unbolt/swap them out in like 10-15 minutes depending on how you ride. Just roll it right out of the kit and roll the other in.


I am probably going to do a 1.25" one with a ton of studs for riding ice, trail and low snow.
 
G
Nov 15, 2015
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Rode for a solid 10 minutes, can't even tell there's a splice. The extrovert driver makes a bit of noise on the clips but nothing out of the ordinary. Had it up to about 40-45mph on grass that's about all I'm geared for. Has a ton of grip for sure. Definitely can tell it isn't a contoured track! Rolls a bit harder than the light yeti track too





 
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G
Nov 15, 2015
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So the 3" is going to go on a different kit, so new projects

Another 163 T3 track same as the other to cut down

And a Peak 2.5 163 that will be shortened and put on a 129 Yeti




Next to stock yeti track


 
G
Nov 15, 2015
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I have no snow. I did find that the new drivers and moving on the shaft a bit, I will either be putting set screws on them or making a set of spacers to hold them in place
 
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