A bullet proof dragon?

thefullmonte · Dec 20, 2010

I figured I would start a thread so everyone could post what they have done to keep these things held together. I see more posts of failures and this may work as a good preventative thread for others.

This can be motor or chassis related. Even post what you found to be the best A-arms and bumpers. Voltage regulator fixes or anything. Pictures are good too.

My motor got the Indy Dan treatment last season.
He balanced my crank, and clutch. As well he did his locating ring modification to the crank.
I went with Wiseco pistons which brought the piston to cylinder clearance into factory spec. The OEM pistons were never the right size.
Indy Dan also had me modify my head in a fashion that allowed for better cooling around the exhaust port. Please contact him about it as it is his modification, not mine.
I capped off the vacuum lines to the exhaust valves. This allowed the exhaust valves to open sooner for more low end and accelleration, but most importantly it doesn't retain nearly as much heat around the exhaust port. I'm using pink springs if you are curious.
I also chose to run engine ice coolant for better piece of mind.
Last but probably one of the most important things is that I added a Power Commander V.
Oh, and don't forget a SLP torque stop for the front to keep that motor a little more in place.

OK all, what has everyone else done?

Ski-Dont89 · Dec 20, 2010

To keep mine together better i bought a 700...:drum:...anyway i put the slp pre filter over the headlight adjuster, glued the airbox together then put gorilla tape over the seam, cleaned the throttle bodies and set the tps,removed all under hood foam, cleaned exhaust valves

MORSNO · Dec 20, 2010

Chas04F7 said:
To keep mine together better i bought a 700...:drum:...anyway i put the slp pre filter over the headlight adjuster, glued the airbox together then put gorilla tape over the seam, cleaned the throttle bodies and set the tps,removed all under hood foam, cleaned exhaust valves

Don't forget to seal the rest of the air intake plenum also. There are major snow injestion gaps around the headlight assembly and also the windshield mounting tabs...the gaps are obvious if you shine a light around these areas. I used clear silicone caulking to blend in.

Ski-Dont89 · Dec 20, 2010

MORSNO said:
Don't forget to seal the rest of the air intake plenum also. There are major snow injestion gaps around the headlight assembly and also the windshield mounting tabs...the gaps are obvious if you shine a light around these areas. I used clear silicone caulking to blend in.

so i have heard...but i rode in yesterday and my air box was dry as a bone all day... i prolly should do that still...we will see

rmkboxer · Dec 20, 2010

I guess I should mention I just ride mine hard and 0 problems. I put a camo extreme on it and its like adding 20hp

MORSNO · Dec 20, 2010

Chas04F7 said:
so i have heard...but i rode in yesterday and my air box was dry as a bone all day... i prolly should do that still...we will see

Maybe your weatherstrip foam was actually installed correctly. Mine looked like a 17 year old pothead made a feable attempt to install it (It's there, just not not in the right place). Same goes for the black caulking between the bulkhead and plastic fenders up where the upper A arms mount (It's there, all over the bulkhead instead of where it belongs sealing up between the plastics and bulkhead).

AndyL · Dec 21, 2010

rmkboxer said:
I guess I should mention I just ride mine hard and 0 problems. I put a camo extreme on it and its like adding 20hp

X2. I dont think people ride them hard enough. The ch extreme track with a ftx drop and roll is the ticket.

rmkboxer · Dec 21, 2010

AndyL said:
X2. I dont think people ride them hard enough. The ch extreme track with a ftx drop and roll is the ticket.

I haven't done the drop and roll but I'm thinking about it

diamonddave · Dec 21, 2010

You have to ride them like a mod sled! You can NOT hold the throttle for more than 3 seconds in the mid range or it will go down.

Ski-Dont89 · Dec 21, 2010

MORSNO said:
Maybe your weatherstrip foam was actually installed correctly. Mine looked like a 17 year old pothead made a feable attempt to install it (It's there, just not not in the right place). Same goes for the black caulking between the bulkhead and plastic fenders up where the upper A arms mount (It's there, all over the bulkhead instead of where it belongs sealing up between the plastics and bulkhead).

i think i just got a good one...all my caulking around the plastics/bulkhead is actually good, and the weatherstrip foam is installed correctly:humble:

skibreeze · Dec 21, 2010

I got a PCV and in some places have added 15% more fuel.

rmkboxer · Dec 21, 2010

diamonddave said:
You have to ride them like a mod sled! You can NOT hold the throttle for more than 3 seconds in the mid range or it will go down.

that is what I have been saying since 09

sledking · Dec 22, 2010

All I have done is put on n slp can n done the latest flash from polaris (april flash) n I havent had one probem with 750 miles. (knock on wood!) It pulls great n has abundant power

800 Dragon 163 · Dec 22, 2010

thefullmonte said:
I figured I would start a thread so everyone could post what they have done to keep these things held together. I see more posts of failures and this may work as a good preventative thread for others.

This can be motor or chassis related. Even post what you found to be the best A-arms and bumpers. Voltage regulator fixes or anything. Pictures are good too.

My motor got the Indy Dan treatment last season.
He balanced my crank, and clutch. As well he did his locating ring modification to the crank.
I went with Wiseco pistons which brought the piston to cylinder clearance into factory spec. The OEM pistons were never the right size.
Indy Dan also had me modify my head in a fashion that allowed for better cooling around the exhaust port. Please contact him about it as it is his modification, not mine.
I capped off the vacuum lines to the exhaust valves. This allowed the exhaust valves to open sooner for more low end and accelleration, but most importantly it doesn't retain nearly as much heat around the exhaust port. I'm using pink springs if you are curious.
I also chose to run engine ice coolant for better piece of mind.
Last but probably one of the most important things is that I added a Power Commander V.
Oh, and don't forget a SLP torque stop for the front to keep that motor a little more in place.

OK all, what has everyone else done?

I just heard back from my dealer my 09 D8 blew up for the 4th time... Polaris is going to pay for the new top end but I have to pay for labor + $50 deductible.. Better than nothing I guess seeing how I was out of warranty in Oct.. I am adding a SLP Coolant Bypass and a Power Commander V. My dealer thinks this should solve it.. What are your thoughts.. I am running a stock pipe and a MBRP can with SPL Air Horn Intake Kit. + fire and Ice intake vents..

beamslayer · Dec 22, 2010

Has your engine problem always been the same thing or has there been different problems.I would think if a engine went down 4 times for the same thing than they never fixed it right the first time. just my 2 cents.

sledcaddie · Dec 22, 2010

question and comment

What exactly is a coolant bypass, and what are you bypassing? Comment: Thanks, Monte, for posting this. My observation over all the Dragon discussions is that there are lots of bits of info tossed about. May I make a suggestion? Every time someone offers up their account of a sled condition/failure, a standard set of background should also be included. Some good ones would be mileage of sled, altitude you run at, mods, and maybe even weather (temp). When others are comparing their sleds, it may be the differences between circumstances that would help identify the cause of an issue. Like, "hey, everything is the same as that guy's sled EXCEPT..." That could be the "AHA!" moment.

rmkboxer · Dec 22, 2010

beamslayer said:
Has your engine problem always been the same thing or has there been different problems.I would think if a engine went down 4 times for the same thing than they never fixed it right the first time. just my 2 cents.

slap a new top end on it that will fix it. the sleds that go down keep going down. if the rider is holding it in the midrange I would think they would learn to not hold it in one spot in the mid range. who knows there could be a air leak but nevermind all that just put the top end on it and call it fixed. I don't get it. if my sled burns down which it hasn't I would be looking for a problem especially if it happenned mor then once. what are these dealers doing?

thefullmonte · Dec 23, 2010

800 Dragon 163 said:
I just heard back from my dealer my 09 D8 blew up for the 4th time... Polaris is going to pay for the new top end but I have to pay for labor + $50 deductible.. Better than nothing I guess seeing how I was out of warranty in Oct.. I am adding a SLP Coolant Bypass and a Power Commander V. My dealer thinks this should solve it.. What are your thoughts.. I am running a stock pipe and a MBRP can with SPL Air Horn Intake Kit. + fire and Ice intake vents..

Not saying it will fix the problem, but adding the Power Commander V is where I would start. Properly fueling this motor is a huge step to keeping it alive.

I'm not knocking your silencer, but I do have some concerns. I don't believe the MBRP can has the correct flow rate for the stock pipe. I might be inclined to put the stock one back on. The modern 2 stroke pipe is very dependant on having the correct flow rate through the silencer. The proper back pressure is paramount to having the pipe function properly.

slap a new top end on it that will fix it. the sleds that go down keep going down. if the rider is holding it in the midrange I would think they would learn to not hold it in one spot in the mid range. who knows there could be a air leak but nevermind all that just put the top end on it and call it fixed. I don't get it. if my sled burns down which it hasn't I would be looking for a problem especially if it happenned mor then once. what are these dealers doing?

The dealers really have had their hands tied. The "slap a new top end on it" slogan comes direct from Polaris. Anything a dealer does to try and fix it beyond that will void the warranty. My thought is if the warranty doesn't fix the actual problem then it isn't much good. I voided mine on my own and have never looked back. Luckily most warranties are almost expired anyway. I think you will find dealers starting to recommend just spending the money and fixing it right. Plus, I think most people recognize that adding a Power Commander is a good idea.

800 Dragon 163 · Dec 23, 2010

Sledcaddie The Coolant Bypass is a new product from SLP it adds more coolant to the mag side of the motor. My problem has been the same problem ever since they did the 2010 update. It didn't seem to matter if I had the stock can or the MBRP can on it burned up either way. I'm going to run the PCV over new years break and then take it in to the shop for an inspection. My dealer also recommended that I mix some race fuel in would you guys agree that are running the PCV? Not sure if it matters but I run from 6000' - 9800'

skibreeze · Dec 23, 2010

Running higher octane won't do dick when it's too lean. You need to add more fuel. I am running EGT's on mine and had spots that would get over 1300 degrees. I put on a PCV this year and have added up to 15% more fuel in spots. So far the pistons look great.

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