'00 MM600 looking for setup, mods, etc.

S

snowx99

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Oct 17, 2001

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Milwaukee

• Oct 25, 2010

• #1

Ok, did some basic searches and scrolled through a ton of threads, most of it pertains to the MM700s.

Have a new to our group 2000 MM-600 and need some setup tips. Currently bone stock, 141 track is junk.

1) Can you run 144" track with a setback or are extensions mandatory?
2) Are the MM700 triple pipes compatible?
3) Would you run billet heads before triple pipes (assuming you only want to pay for one mod per season)?
4) Any other gearing or suspension mods? (going to order MPI transfer kit)

 

M

mmmod

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May 19, 2009

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cle elum WA

• Oct 26, 2010

• #2

I would assume that you couldnt use 700 pipes on a 600 engine. SLP makes some 600 tripple pipes you could use though. If you want even more power, you can get a 700 top end (pistons, cylinders, head) and put them on your 600 block and then run some 700 tripple pipes. Tripple pipes are a must before a billet head as well.

As for the track, the 2000 already has the suspension updates done so some small rail extensions or some mtn. viper rails would do the trick there.

 

Last edited: Oct 26, 2010

M

M.M. 700

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Nov 26, 2007

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• Oct 26, 2010

• #3

I am 90% sure you can use the Bender pipes on a 700 or a 600. Go to there website and check the part numbers, see if they are the same.

Basically whatever mods you see for the 700 will work on the 600, except the clutching-jetting.

 

S

SRXSRULE

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• Oct 26, 2010

• #4

You can run a 144 track by just installing an offset axle. Mountain machines makes what you need. Pipes and track are a must. The head isnt that big of deal, the changable domes are nice to get compression back. You can also remove the stock head and split the headgasket. Carefully drill out the rivit holding the 3 layers together, then take one of the outside layers and clean it up good with brake clean or asetone and then spray it with a gasket adhesive like Cooper coat or felpro hi-tack. Re-torque it evenly down and you should be good to go. Eric

Oh yeah, the tripple pipes are the same for the 700/600

 

S

snowx99

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Oct 17, 2001

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• Oct 27, 2010

• #5

Necessary to compensate for jetting when removing head gasket layer?

Pretty sure we've got a clean set of Yamaha triple pipes, these are the same as Power Inc.- correct?

I've seen the axle kits and rail extensions for the 141-144 swap, but would rather not spend money if I can get away with just moving the skid back.

What about gearing? Stock is 19/39, worth going to 18/39 or 19/40?

 

M

MM800

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Nov 30, 2007

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• Oct 29, 2010

• #6

mods&

Sell the 600 top end, say 250, buy a 700 top end say 350 to 400. Get a set of triple pipes . You have to realize that there is a wealth of info for the 700 and the 600 is great for those who r happy with stock. I don't know of anyone that builds 600 and only 600 pipes. They all use a finely tuned pipe for the 700. Sell the 6 top end first and your out of pocket expense will be minimal. PS ihave all the parts!

 

T

Turk

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Dec 1, 2007

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• Oct 29, 2010

• #7

any aftermarket pipes for 700 red head work on the 600.

 

M

MM800

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• Oct 29, 2010

• #8

All Im Saying

Is that throw all the money you can imagine into a 6 (no big bore) and a properly tuned 700 with pipes will eat your lunch everytime. Ive never seen a 600 come close to hanging with a 7. Ive built quite a few with ever option offered. All the after market parts were originaly designed for the 7. Just my 2cents. Justto throw a wrench into the whole scenario. MostYamaha BB wont run with a finaly tuned 7. Simply because there is such a wealth of knowledge an tuining from guys like Turk and other. Unfortunately, people plop down alot of money for the BB and never have it clutched and or jetted right.Alot of good running 350 chevys , not too many 283's that can run with a 350- apples to oranges.

 

S

snowx99

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• Nov 2, 2010

• #9

MPI transfer kit and rail extensions on order, along with a 144x2 Camoplast track. Also have pivot riser kit coming too.

Starting the build as soon as parts start showing up. Still on the fence about swapping in a P85 primary, see what the budget allows for once the rear end is finished up.

Pulling carbs off, draining gas tank, chaincase service, etc. as it hasn't been on the snow in 2 seasons now. Probably yank the sway bar too while we are at it. Will post pics once the project begins.

 

S

snowx99

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Oct 17, 2001

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• Dec 26, 2010

• #10

OK, sled done, but need some rear suspension adjustments and looking for somewhere to start.

Has MPI transfer kit with MPI rail extensions w/144" Camo track. Seems to have a lot of ski pressure on it and the MPI straps are in the medium setting. Would going to the lightest setting be the first place to start or should I start with the center shock?

 

Ford428CJ

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Jan 16, 2009

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Klamath Falls, Oregon

• Jan 3, 2011

• #11

snowx99 said:

Ok, did some basic searches and scrolled through a ton of threads, most of it pertains to the MM700s.

Have a new to our group 2000 MM-600 and need some setup tips. Currently bone stock, 141 track is junk.

1) Can you run 144" track with a setback or are extensions mandatory?
2) Are the MM700 triple pipes compatible?
3) Would you run billet heads before triple pipes (assuming you only want to pay for one mod per season)?
4) Any other gearing or suspension mods? (going to order MPI transfer kit)

Click to expand...

Cheap Mod..... If you love Boondocking, Side hilling, Mountain Climbing. I would recommend getting rid of your sway-bar! A Transfer Enhancement Kit for the rear skid.

Other mods but not so cheap but you can do here or there.

Fabcraft front end. Bender Pipes (or SLP, Haulk, Jaws). 700 Jugs/head with a new set of SPI pistons. Next you can do, 144" track with off set axles with a re-gearing and clutching too.