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Are you doing anything to immobilize the split front arm when you do your TMotion lockout? Is there any way short of replacing the arm with one from an XM or maybe the new BCX CMotion skid?
TMotion delete
- Thread starter Bill9911
- Start date
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I can't help with your question but am curious why you are deleting the T-motion?.
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I am deleting because the sled has a strong tendency to suddenly catch and buck towards the high side when carving on edge in less than perfect snow. Same conditions comparison back to back with an Axys which didn’t. I am trying to get more positive predictable handling.
I am thinking just the lockout washers won’t stabilize the front of the skid though.
I am thinking just the lockout washers won’t stabilize the front of the skid though.
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I did the washers, but I am not really understanding this other part you are referring to. Do you have a link to that skid?
Torsion bar delete right???
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Very interested in your experience. Could you please elaborate on exactly what you mean?. I just want to make sure I'm following your description correctly.
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T-Motion is a variable that isn't controlled by the rider. On a side hill it can or will pivot to the down hill side making the machine want to turn up hill. It does it all the time really but in a side hill it can become an issue for some. some people don't mind some people hate it...
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Yes I understand what it does, just looking for clarity as the the issue encountered by bill9911 in less that perfect snow. Unless I misunderstood, it sounds like his issue was in carving on relatively flat ground, not side-hilling. FWIW, the few degrees of skid pitch that it provides, I'm not yet convinced that it has much real affect
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Coo, So I deleted mine and I personally like it better, never really had an issue with T-Motion before but to me it is more predictable and stays where I put it.
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The reason that I am keenly interested in this is that 2 days ago, we were riding in not great conditions and I laid the sled over (2014 summit 800, 163)to go around a tree, hit the throttle to get the track to dig and rather than dig and come around, it just grabbed and shot me straight into the tree at warp 8. Wondering if the T-motion played any role in that outcome.
The flexedge track will also work against you in that situation
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Lacombe08- That Skinz assembly is very cool looking- thanks for that! I will research more, but I am wondering whether there is any benefit to that over just using the CMotion or XM rear arms?
Drivebye- TMotion delete , not torsion delete. the part i was initially asking about is the front arm- these are "split" on the right side on TMotion, unlike non-tmotion, or polaris arms which are one piece, so together with the TMotion heim joint in the rear ams, the skid can tilt. I was asking if anyone does anything to replace the front arm or immobilize their existing one.
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Cat-man-Doo- I don't know if what happened to you is the same as my issue, but for me while on a carve, any sort of irregularity, whether it is crusty snow, tracks, uneven submerged base snow, or even jerky throttle control, can cause the sled to grab, jerk the bars, and buck me off towards the high side. The Pro RMK did not do any of that when I rode them back to back. So now I am trying to get my 850 (whose engine I love) to handle more like the RMK - predictable and stay where i put it. I am thinking Gripper skis, and TMotion delete as first steps.
Drivebye- TMotion delete , not torsion delete. the part i was initially asking about is the front arm- these are "split" on the right side on TMotion, unlike non-tmotion, or polaris arms which are one piece, so together with the TMotion heim joint in the rear ams, the skid can tilt. I was asking if anyone does anything to replace the front arm or immobilize their existing one.
Cat-man-Doo- I don't know if what happened to you is the same as my issue, but for me while on a carve, any sort of irregularity, whether it is crusty snow, tracks, uneven submerged base snow, or even jerky throttle control, can cause the sled to grab, jerk the bars, and buck me off towards the high side. The Pro RMK did not do any of that when I rode them back to back. So now I am trying to get my 850 (whose engine I love) to handle more like the RMK - predictable and stay where i put it. I am thinking Gripper skis, and TMotion delete as first steps.
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Thanks you, that IS different. I haven't noticed what you describe so much but then again, I didn't compare it to anything else.
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Lacombe08- That Skinz assembly is very cool looking- thanks for that! I will research more, but I am wondering whether there is any benefit to that over just using the CMotion or XM rear arms?
Drivebye- TMotion delete , not torsion delete. the part i was initially asking about is the front arm- these are "split" on the right side on TMotion, unlike non-tmotion, or polaris arms which are one piece, so together with the TMotion heim joint in the rear ams, the skid can tilt. I was asking if anyone does anything to replace the front arm or immobilize their existing one..
Cat-man-Doo- I don't know if what happened to you is the same as my issue, but for me while on a carve, any sort of irregularity, whether it is crusty snow, tracks, uneven submerged base snow, or even jerky throttle control, can cause the sled to grab, jerk the bars, and buck me off towards the high side. The Pro RMK did not do any of that when I rode them back to back. So now I am trying to get my 850 (whose engine I love) to handle more like the RMK - predictable and stay where i put it. I am thinking Gripper skis, and TMotion delete as first steps.
Spent the better part of the year on a similar quest. I'll try and save you some time
Cheap version: T-Motion delete, stiffer torsion bars set to the 2-3 position, rock.
Full on version: Tom's Kit, run limiter open with a very soft front track shock. Run RTS with a bit of sag and a TON of pressure in the EVOL. (50 psi front shock, 125 rts, 200 evol). Delete T-Motion. Add SLP Mohawk Skis.
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I'm not yet convinced that there is much if any flex in the edge of these "flex edge" tracks. The 2.5 inch lugs will prevent it from flexing there and there isn't much flat track between the lugs to flex, unless I'm missing something.
I agree with this.
My setup that eliminated most of the twitchiness in the chassis.
Locked out tmotion. Deleted torsion springs with exit’s kit. Let the strap out one hole. Front track real soft. Rear track shock fairly stiff. Stand a bit further back on the boards and use lots of brake and throttle to get the track to dig in a bit more on setup/uneven snow.
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I rode mine 600 miles thinking I would get used to it. Never did. Put in the lock out and its a whole different sled. Side hills better, is more stable, more predictable. All I can figure the T Motion is good for is beginners, allowing them to get the sled up on its side easier. Other then that I dont see a use for it.
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Not sure I understand. How is less stable and less predictable better for beginners??. I would think that more stable and more predictable to be better traits for beginners. As far as ease of getting the sled on it's side, I'm not yet convinced that the few degrees of side to side motion means much in that regard.
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The sled is easier to roll over turn and get on it's side with T-Motion, does not take as much input. Sort of splitting hairs on what would be better for a beginner.
I went with the Zbros Tmotion delete. I only have a couple of rides after the modification but I can now feel the balance point carving turns, holding an edge even on hardpack. Also noticed on the trails to and fro; locked in. Noticeable and now predictable for me on the 18’ freeride 165/3”
