Skid position (2013)
- Thread starter Fredrik
- Start date
No sense moving it forward to the 2013 imo, just drill the lower hole in the supporting brackets of the front rear suspension mounts from the inside of the tunnel. The holes are already in the brackets just not through the tunnel so no measuring required. This will give you a lighter front and feel but will make steep climbs more difficult unless you really deviate your suspension settings. Would better suit a 160 something track length, mine is a 153. I did like it for some riding situation.
people on here who have never tried this will tell ya that it will track stab like that without the fancy ice age rails.
izza:on the '13 location, there was a thread a year or so ago where a guy said that was the ticket. in the proclimb section. I believe he also raised the running boards, and said the old cat clutches were better, lol,
IDK, seems like a preference thing to me. most people would advise someone with a 12-13 to mount it in the 14+ location for better mountain performance, for what its worth.
F
people on here who have never tried this will tell ya that it will track stab like that without the fancy ice age rails.
on the '13 location, there was a thread a year or so ago where a guy said that was the ticket. in the proclimb section. I believe he also raised the running boards, and said the old cat clutches were better, lol,
IDK, seems like a preference thing to me. most people would advise someone with a 12-13 to mount it in the 14+ location for better mountain performance, for what its worth.
Ok in theory with the lower drive shaft it should
get up on snow better with suspension forward
more lugs in contact and less track bow out,also lighter front feel without having to get all the way back on boards,easier to move forward after turning uphill.
Have you tried softening your front suspension, stiffen the front shock on the rear suspension loosen the rear springs and let the limiter straps out?
F
Yes i have i like that setup when riding less technical terrain with feet on each running board,gives a light and playful front end feel,con is it messes up sidehill stability when standing with both feet on one side
with setup i have now i feel i can sidehill for miles the only problem in very tight trees im not fast enough to swith direction and then switch direction back again
for ex im sidehilling on left side horizontal and it gets to tight for going forward i have to go around a tree uphill i cant se thru how it looks do i make a u-turn around tree or straight uphill or just turn up then get it back same direction i was going
in this terrain there is no plan b your lucky if you have a plan a
I feel if i could stand farther forward i could swith direction standing closer to sled and therefor being more ready if i have to swith direction again also more steering would help anyone tried kmod arm on ascender is it to much steering feel like 1-2" more steering would be needed from stock.
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