EGT readings w/SLP pipe kit

you need to use the egts for what they are for, a tool. one small window to see what the motor is doing. not the be all end all.... this is what is going on.

best thing i can tell you to do is. tape off the egts so you cant read them. do your test runs at part, mid and full throttle. read the plugs and wash on the pistons. when you get to your best wash and colors, pull off the tape re-perform the same tests you just did and make notes on the egts. any more than that get more fuel to it or shut it down.

placement of the egt probes are CRUCIAL a few mm either way and you wil read very cold or very hot.

i have saw sleds burn down at 1000 or less egts, have saw them run great at 1400. aluminum melts at 1350 for food for thought.

the guage is just that a guage. ski

Dont worry about it. I ran at 1400 and 1500 for a year and half. Scared me at first too. Then I realized how good it ran. How good my wash look, and stopped carring. Trust SLP. As long as you dont go beyond a pipe. reeds and intake, you should be fine without a box. JMO but hope it helps.

chip13 said:

Running a SLP pipe kit on my '07 M8 with Koso EGT's on the Y-pipe. Got readings of almost 2000 deg. at part throttle cruising 6,000-8,000 ft. Varying the throttle dropped the temps down but shot back up with any sustained 1/3 throttle cruising. SLP tech says don't worry, they've seen these temps in testing with no problem. I'm tempted to add a Boondocker box to richen mixture around 1/3 throttle just to be safe. Full throttle is showing 1200-1300 deg. No problem there.

For those of you running this combo, what readings are you seeing? Anything near 2000 deg.? Any problems because of it?

Thanks,

Click to expand...

How far down the y pipe did you put your probes?

You are going to run really, really lean at part throttle just before the exhaust valves open up.

I found this out the hard way a couple times. Under moderate load, part throttle the EGT's would spike up. As soon as the valve opened the temps would drop significantly.

From what I understand Arctic Cat has the fuel mapping setup so they can pass emissions, so it is really lean. This is done just prior to the power valves opening. And of course this open point isn't strictly RPM based. It uses a bunch of variables so it isn't consistent and hard to tune out. So to have a BD box that will add fuel based on RPM setting doesn't work well. If you used the TPS/Nitrous feature on the BD box you can add fuel and then have it cut the fuel the instant the valves open. What I have found is in order to add enough fuel to keep the EGT's in check prior to the valve opening the sled will fall on it's face rich when they do open. So it was a major balance and never worked very well. Now I am running the TPS/power valve servo control. I hope for better results this season.

I also run the Koso's on my m1000. I am 4" from the piston skirt. I know for a fact mine will burn down if I run 1450 for ANY period of time.

You should pull your Y pipe and look around a bit. With those temps I would expect to see some scuffing of the piston. Hope not but....

Thunder

everybodies experiences can be a bit different and still be ok....for them...i like to put my egts on before i make mods....then i ride it stock and check for temps before i do my mods, so i have some idea as to what the factory engineered for....doing this on my 09 1000, i never saw temps more than 1400 degrees...lower rpms (below 6000 rpm), my egts stayed below 1100...6000 to 6500 rpm, they raised to 1250...if i held the throttle right at the high egt point, on my sled about 6200 rpm, i could get it up to over 1300 egt...then at wot, it was generally about 1250....buuuuttt, if i had a very long pull, say over a full minute at wot, i could get up to 1400 degrees, totally stock....after i did my mods, i kept my egts within these parameters, a full year of riding with no problems...i took my heads off this summer, pistons looked great, slightly rich, lasts a long time...:face-icon-small-hap

slyrydr said:

everybodies experiences can be a bit different and still be ok....for them...i like to put my egts on before i make mods....then i ride it stock and check for temps before i do my mods, so i have some idea as to what the factory engineered for....doing this on my 09 1000, i never saw temps more than 1400 degrees...lower rpms (below 6000 rpm), my egts stayed below 1100...6000 to 6500 rpm, they raised to 1250...if i held the throttle right at the high egt point, on my sled about 6200 rpm, i could get it up to over 1300 egt...then at wot, it was generally about 1250....buuuuttt, if i had a very long pull, say over a full minute at wot, i could get up to 1400 degrees, totally stock....after i did my mods, i kept my egts within these parameters, a full year of riding with no problems...i took my heads off this summer, pistons looked great, slightly rich, lasts a long time...:face-icon-small-hap

Click to expand...

What kinda guages/probes were you using? How far down did you mount them, I have the same sled, but it has the SLP setup and PCIII, would work good for a baseline. I'll check my plugs of course