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The Perfect Set up for you...CLUTCHING...

Whimp

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Oct 4, 2012
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Laurel Montana
So I have wanted to start this kind of a thread for a while.If its been talked about before thats ok.. lets talk about it again.... I feel this could be a very useful thread for all of us to talk clutching on Turbos....Everyone has their likes and preferences so this is not a "mine is best" thread. I would like to get more information from everyone so people can learn and share different set ups.....

I will have to say my clutching likes are different than what many turbo builders reccommend or sell with their kits.....

I want to keep this information pretty basic and easy to understand....If thats possible with clutching......LOL

My riding style is boondocking and climbing.......

Most people run a heavy tip wieght on their turbo two strokes.... I do not like the way these weights react on the bottom end. I love the top end pull but I can't handle the sluggy feeling on the bottom and the transition in the mid range.....

My favorite set up on an M8 is to stay with a lighter primary weight where the weight is pretty evenly distributed. I also lean towards an agressive profile..... I do not like hard engagements so I keep a pretty light engagement spring....On the secondary I like a progressive helix that starts between a 36-40 and ends between 46-48 or so.... I run a pretty stiff spring in my secondary to help with a rapid backshift and to make sure the primary isnt over working the secondary.Shift Assist is great... I also keep gearing pretty low or close to stock.....

My approach with this clutching is to acheive great bottom end, a quick "on and off" the throttle response and still have a great Pull on the top... I clutch on the light side and gain my top end with RMP. I run my M8's between 8300 and 8500 or so..... 2010 or newer....

I do not fully understand people who say you are crazy to only run 8psi on the a turbo sled.... Here is my question to people who run like 14 psi or so....How do you clutch for 14psi and keep a great bottom end for the trees?.... When you go up in boost you sacrifice bottom end and response because you have to add more weight... The M8 only has so much bottom end so when you get into the heavier weights you have to sacrifice... I know some people try to use a stiffer spring for engagement or notched weights when they get into the heavier weights but this isnt to my liking personally.... My favorite set up for "all around performance" is for about 10LBS of boost.. I feel I can keep an aweosme bottom end and still pull hard on the top... When i go above 12 psi I feel I am giving up my bottom end to keep things in check on the top....

I do not want to write a novel here... I just want to get this started.... Please share your thoughts and opinions on clutching..How you clutch and why?. This will be great for everyone to learn and remeber no one has the perfect set up for everyone......

I will share more on what I use on my TM1000 and TM1200 later.....

Lets hear it guys......

Riding Style?
Sled?
Clutching?
What your trying to acheive with your set-up?

Whimp
 
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brian_moreau7

Member
Nov 9, 2008
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8
Riding Style: Boondocking/ Tree Riding

Sled: 2010 M8 162X3X15, Boondocker Turbo, Turbo Pipe, Timing Key, 10-12 PSI, Straight 100LL

Clutching:
Primary: 79g D&D Big Dog Weights, D&D Black Primary Spring
Secondary: 46/36P Helix, Orange AC Spring, Shift Assist 046 Belt


Primary riding is at 6500 - 8000ft....Happy with this setup so far, could still use a little bit more primary weight at lower Elevations. But overall works good. Have also tried a few other setups with very heavy tip weights and straight cut helix.... But for my riding style I keep coming back to this setup.
 

WyoBoy1000

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On the M, around cooke the 36/46 is overkill and seems to heat belts, the 36/40 works a lot better with more belt life using B dog weights.
Using MDS weights, 36* or no more than 36/40-42 or straight angles as high as 40*. You can adjust the weight and spring for boost or top or bottom end pull. Nearly the same profile as the daltons, but you choose where the weight goes.
I like lower engagement and anything over 10lbs is really not needed for 95% of my riding.

don't know on the PC T.
 
H
Jan 20, 2008
21
8
3
My clutch setup!

Sled: 2010 162 TM8
Riding Style: Mainly Trail Riding
Elevation: 8000ft to 10000ft
Clutching Recommendation: Whatever wimp put in the dam thing works really good!!!
Goal at the end of day: Shred some sick trail powder!


!!!!!!!!!! WHEN IN DOUBT THROTTLE OUT !!!!!!!!!!

!!!!!!!!!! IT IS ALMOST SHOW TIME !!!!!!!!!!!
 

gongshowm1000

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Nov 28, 2007
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Quesnel BC
M8 turbo

Riding: tree riding, boondocking, some climbing

Sled:just bought a 2011 m8 cutler stage 2 wanna run 10 lbs boost on av gas, 162" powerclaw

Clutching:
primary:spring purple (don't know which one) Weights cutler adjustables set at 85grams tip loaded( see how that works)
Secondary:cutler torsion set up 38-44 helix, orange spring, hole#4

Riding from 4-7000 ft, first ride is gonna be this weekend see how this set up is gonna work.:face-icon-small-coo
 
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H
Jan 20, 2008
21
8
3
"SICK TRAIL POWDER"

The words "sick" and "trail powder" don't belong in the same sentence. LOL

Sorry but I had to say it lol

Come on!! My snow machine is ready for some "SICK TRAIL POWDER"!!

With "The Perfect Set Up For You....CLUTCHING anythings possible!!

LOL!!!

IMG-20120319-01101.jpg
 

mmsports

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hubsperformance.com
Clutching

I mainly ride trees and some shoots well just about everything. I hate the 36 on the beginning just do not get it makes turbo feel week. I run straight 46 lower boost 44 with anywhere from 80-86 heavy tip MM weights loaded tip heavy weights depending on turbo and boost on the M8 same with M1000 but with 90 plus grams heavy tips. But its all about the set up some set ups are just different as long as it gets you were you want to go.
 
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INDEEP

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Nov 26, 2007
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Post Falls, ID
On a multi angle helix why would you start out with a steeper angle than what you finish with? It seems secondary setups vary greatly.
 

Wheel House Motorsports

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This is a great thread, cant wait to try out the straight 44* helix on the turbo m7... the 36/40 is a straight DOG until the turbo spools. with a little speed its not bad the thing is just way overloaded out of the hole!!
 
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Crusty82

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Jan 27, 2010
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Has anybody tried this: http://www.shockwaveperformance.com/

I am considering this to be able to easily find the straight angle that fits my riding style.

This is on a 2012 HCR BDturbo with rktek head, and Dalton primary weights.
10-11psi at sealevel.
 
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turbo800

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Has anybody tried this: http://www.shockwaveperformance.com/

I am considering this to be able to easily find the straight angle that fits my riding style.

This is on a 2012 HCR BDturbo with rktek head, and Dalton primary weights.
10-11psi at sealevel.

The Yami guys run them alot. Us Doo guys are having problems with them chewing up secondary rollers with just BB kits. They are also binding up below like 40*....they may have fixed them by now.
 
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av8er

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Adjustable helix

they had a writeup in 2004, I'm guessing they aren't very good. I've never heard of them before. if it was such a great thing everybody would know about them and use them, but if you get one please report on it what you thing, there also a little pricey.
 
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Crusty82

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Jan 27, 2010
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they had a writeup in 2004, I'm guessing they aren't very good. I've never heard of them before. if it was such a great thing everybody would know about them and use them, but if you get one please report on it what you thing, there also a little pricey.

I was thinking the same.

I will write a review if I decide to test it out:)
 
S
Nov 26, 2007
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I am running a shockwave on my 2013 800 cutler turbo. I have two sets of ramps. The one set of ramps are straight and the other set is a 5 degree step ramp meaning 44 for the first bit of the ramp then dropping to 40 the rest of the ramp. Trying to get them to cut me a reverse set of ramps in the 5 degree though. The step ramp wont work very good I dont think, but I did run it a little with the stock blue secondary spring. Was not to bad just not the pull on the bottom like I like. Next ride out will be the straight ramps and a orange cat secondary spring. Hopefully this will get the bottom end up and going. The reason I want to try the shockwave is I run trails in a few places I ride to get to the good stuff. I can adjust the helix and run a lot lower rpm going down the trail to conserve fuel and then dial it down to play.
 
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Crusty82

Member
Jan 27, 2010
120
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I am running a shockwave on my 2013 800 cutler turbo. I have two sets of ramps. The one set of ramps are straight and the other set is a 5 degree step ramp meaning 44 for the first bit of the ramp then dropping to 40 the rest of the ramp. Trying to get them to cut me a reverse set of ramps in the 5 degree though. The step ramp wont work very good I dont think, but I did run it a little with the stock blue secondary spring. Was not to bad just not the pull on the bottom like I like. Next ride out will be the straight ramps and a orange cat secondary spring. Hopefully this will get the bottom end up and going. The reason I want to try the shockwave is I run trails in a few places I ride to get to the good stuff. I can adjust the helix and run a lot lower rpm going down the trail to conserve fuel and then dial it down to play.

Please let me know how the straight with orange cat spring works out. That is the setup I was going to go for.

It would be great to test different angles so easily.

I`m guessing around 42" straight would be the best angle for me. Based on that I actually liked my stock 42-40 helix better in the bottom then my 36-46. And reviews from others I have talked to.

I think straight maybe would be the easiest to dial in. I`m no clutch expert, so I want to have the least amount of variabels.

Just find the angle i like, adjust primary for rpm and be done with it.
 

Betterview

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steeper initial angle delays up shift until turbo boost is up. idea behind it,

Actually the steeper angle provides less belt pressure and upshifts more quickly. It is easiest to look at helix angles as a slope being traveled in the downward direction, not upward as we are often tempted to think. The reason for a steeper angle following a more shallow angle is twofold: Initial engagement and low throttle settings on the shallow portion of the helix give the engine time to get on the pipe and produce full power, then as shift out proceeds the angle can become steeper to enable quicker upshift and also overcome the increased shift resistance from the spring being compressed.
 

Whimp

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Laurel Montana
i also like to think of it in a gearing sense... I run the lesser angle (36 ish) on the bottom of the helix to keep me in a "lower gear" longer. With the lighter tip weights in the primary and the lessor angle on the bottom it hangs in a lower gear and it keeps the snappiness I like while playing in the trees.....

Then when you want the top end pull... open her up and let it shift out and pull on the steeper angle of the helix....
 
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