happylilcuss
Did you have to cut your bulk head on the clutch side, to make it work with a 1/2 plate?
Ok there's not a lot of specific info in here, let me break it down.
If you are using the factory mod straps, or 440 strapped drilled to fit, you need a 1.5 inch spacer to bring the motor up. Even then you still need to notch the bulkhead on your clutch side to clear the push arm bracket and block, and move your clutch gaurd up. If you look at the belly pan on the inside you can see there's plenty of room to re-mount it, I think around 1.5 inches above stock.
If you use the factory straps you will also need to buy the mod steering post. You will also need to do one of two things: buy the factory mod steering support in order to clear the exhaust valve, or cut your stock support, bend a new bar and weld it in.
You will need the '01 RMK 800 or '03 pro-x 800 carb boots to clear your jackshaft and some K&N angle filters or shorty kickazz or similar in order to not rub holes in them.
Some of these guys are talking in reference to "the plate" and they are talking about Brad @ Power Addiction's motor plate, which places the motor lower, and more to the left side of the chassis. This allows lower center of gravity and use of the stock steering post but poses more problems for jackshaft and y-pipe clearance later on.
I see what parts you are using but I wanted to post the info here so later when people search for it, it's all in one place. All you need to do is cut a triangle shaped notch out of your bulkhead, make a plate for it and weld it in, good to go. Try to use a button-head cap screw when you attach your front push arm bracket to the block, clearance is going to be tight. I'll take a couple pics tomorrow when I'm back in the shop just to clarify.
I will get a picture and show you what is up. I am not running oil injection, so cutting shouldn't be an issue. Are you running the stock torque arm and push arm? Thanks for throwing those pics up!
