Vertical steering post for 1100t
- Thread starter d1100t
- Start date
If you thinks thats ugly you should have seen the prototype:face-icon-small-sho
T
Well I can tell you that you won't see anything like that on my sled. I think that the engineers at cat may have over thought this one. . . The pc that all the spars bolt to is strong and thick and has a nice flat surface to bolt to.
K
vert post
My post will finish out very clean and discrete. Some will like it some wont but the way the sled is built with the spar cap and intake on the 1100 4 strokes I am limited on location. The post will be about two inches forward from where it is located now. I could go back more but the cost would quadruple and I will need to get solid orders for pricing and dealers are very welcome. I will post cad pic's in a few days once they are ready .
Thanks for your interest
Cheers :face-icon-small-hap
My post will finish out very clean and discrete. Some will like it some wont but the way the sled is built with the spar cap and intake on the 1100 4 strokes I am limited on location. The post will be about two inches forward from where it is located now. I could go back more but the cost would quadruple and I will need to get solid orders for pricing and dealers are very welcome. I will post cad pic's in a few days once they are ready .
Thanks for your interest
Cheers :face-icon-small-hap
Hmmmm... the flex cable off the Wildcat and a tripod. Maybe function over form...
T
I am in the garage working on mine tonight and I decided that the legs on this tripod are not nearly as big and long as they look. I think it is possible that the pic is from the worst possible angle. Either way. . . I should have some pics by the end of the night of how i am going to do mine.
Looks like a 2013 too me. All orange?
Me too. I just added a riser.
T
So I took my sled apart tonight. . . . haha. . . .LOL.
Funny thing is that the Ujoint I bought magically fits inside the ID of the stock steering post. Looks like I am going to be cutting down the stock steering post another 3 inches from this pic. Then the ujoint will be below the upper spar thingy. I will be building some type of bearing block thing it will be two bushings about 4 inches apart. I will likely brace it back to the smooth black area just in front of the gas cap where the post would come out on the M8 proclimb. with the vertical steering. I think there is enough strength in this upper spar connector pc as it is cast aluminum and has 6 braces from the chassis coming up to it. This will likely move the post T forward about 2 inchs from stock location. But will make the bars rotate flat. Should be nice and I got long arms so no biggy.
Funny thing is that the Ujoint I bought magically fits inside the ID of the stock steering post. Looks like I am going to be cutting down the stock steering post another 3 inches from this pic. Then the ujoint will be below the upper spar thingy. I will be building some type of bearing block thing it will be two bushings about 4 inches apart. I will likely brace it back to the smooth black area just in front of the gas cap where the post would come out on the M8 proclimb. with the vertical steering. I think there is enough strength in this upper spar connector pc as it is cast aluminum and has 6 braces from the chassis coming up to it. This will likely move the post T forward about 2 inchs from stock location. But will make the bars rotate flat. Should be nice and I got long arms so no biggy.
T
Steering stock is likely not bad. . . But could it be better. . . . well thats likely.
M
i went 1 inch forward and a 1 inch lower riser and its much better.
T
I will try this for now. I think it is going to work nice. . . it has been the consenses from reading that moving the post forward is good. So I am going to move forward and go to 15 degrees from vertical on the post. I really think there is something to the bars rotating flat. I am thinking even the skidoo could benefit from it. Thinking back I found myself if awkward positions reaching for the bars across the sled and having no leverage due to the fact that the far grip was just that FAR away. This should bring the grip almost 6 inches closer from what I can tell in the same situation. I am sure that this is not going to be the best in all situations but in the trees I think it will be the bomb and thats where I plan to take my 1100t.
Here is a pic of what I got done this morning before work. The bottome bushing(aluminum) will stay in the stock location. There will be another bushing up fartheraprox 4" up the vertical section of steering post. This bushing will be braced to a different area than the bottom so it should be strong. I may have to go to a shorter riser but thats no big deal. . . Everyone wants to get rid of 4.5" risers. I even think my goggle bag may still fit nicely.
Flatter rotating bars.
I guess what I am looking for the most is to have my handle bars rotate flatter. I would prefer them to be back an inch or two but that might be very hard to get. Having them rotate flatter is more important. Longer steering post and smaller riser will help them rotate flatter.
I guess what I am looking for the most is to have my handle bars rotate flatter. I would prefer them to be back an inch or two but that might be very hard to get. Having them rotate flatter is more important. Longer steering post and smaller riser will help them rotate flatter.
T
Longer post will make them rotate the same. It will still rotate down towards your knee. You need to change the angle of the post to make them rotate flatter. That is why the guys that are doing the C3 spacer are getting a flatter rotation. The angle of the post is being changed, Plus it allows the riser to stay in line with the post which also stops the movement from being weird if the riser was not inline with the post. I should have some more good pics to share this evening.
T
I also don't wanna move the bars forward any more than I need to as I know there is enough weight upfront and if i get to far forward I move away from the balance point of the sled. If that happens a riser adjuster like geo is talking about will bring the bars back a couple inches.
J
Picked up sled Thursday rode Friday and Saturday worked on vertical steering Sunday and finished last nignt huge improvement sled will roll up very easily.My M 1000 steering was 19 deg by my angle finder so that is what my 1100 is now. Fairly simple any way you can tell is by the post angle no tripod needed.If i was to do a second one it would be a two or three hour upgrade start to finish.
T
Can you post a pic?
T
Vertical Post coming together.
E
Thanks Turbo583 for your work. I finally got to ride my own 1100T today. The one I rode last month and reviewed was a demo sled. The stock bars are not bad IF the angle of the riser closely follows the angle that the post comes out of the frame. Having them back a few inches and not rotate on the goofy arc (like when they are tipped up to be level) makes a HUGE difference in how the sled feels and handles. The sled I rode last month had the bars tipped up. It put the steering about 6" forward of where it is now on my sled. Moving the bars forward, even if they are made to rotate horizontally like the PC 8 SP changes the balance point of this sled significantly. The demo I rode last month felt VERY heavy in the front end. Mine feels lighter than my M1000 in much worse snow conditions than on the demo sled. The only thing I can attribute this to is having the bars rearward and therefore the balance point rearward which makes the sled MORE maneuverable and lighter feeling. Arctic Cat went through great lengths to balance this sled by having the gas tank more toward the back and even went so far as to locate the battery in the back.
Take this with a grain of salt, but when I saw that the consensus is that the bars should move forward - I think you will be all be dissapointed if you do this. The bars need to be in the same location as the PC8 SP- at least for me.
Take this with a grain of salt, but when I saw that the consensus is that the bars should move forward - I think you will be all be dissapointed if you do this. The bars need to be in the same location as the PC8 SP- at least for me.
Last edited:
Similar threads
