Weight loss on my 13 XM

Matte Murder · Sep 14, 2013

So I am starting about 10 lbs heavier since I have an E start with a lw battery.
From there;
1. Tom's Emotion rear suspension. 10lbs
2. SLP full pipe set up. 14lbs
3. Fox front shocks. Not much, say 3lbs
4. Diamond S hood. 12lbs
5. Foam removal from side panels. 2lbs
6. Belt drive, at most 2lbs. (on the Cat it's 12lbs, no brainer there)
So I am at 41lbs off but I give back 10lbs for the E start.
I would like to find another 20lbs but it's going to get expensive.
Ti front end and rear suspension. 10lbs?
Carbon Fiber fuel tank. 9lbs
Ti bolts. 2lbs
Thats 50-55lbs off my sled. I know from riding a Pro Lite Cat that 50lbs makes a massive difference in a sleds performance. Am I missing any weight loss parts? Don't want to do the complete carbon chassis.

DITCHBANGER · Sep 15, 2013

have you weighed the stock hood?i thought the diamond s hood would save more than 12 lbs?what about the ti diamond s can instead of slp,can is only 2.5lbs

Matte Murder · Sep 15, 2013

The stock hood is 17lbs with the guage. I figure net with some kind of intake, gauge and an LED light would be at least 5lbs. Just trying to be realistic on weight savings.

scottbilt95 · Sep 15, 2013

ti a-arms

i always tell people asking to understand that although ti is sick light, it doesn't bend it explodes. may not be the best choice if you go out far into the backcountry. maybe consider a good aftermarket chromo set which are typically still lighter yet much stronger than stockers. you can get either from dan @ alternative impact. i used to use ti until i had to "bicycle" a rev about 8 miles back to the truck. my body was sore for a week...

jeff

turboless terry · Sep 15, 2013

Is 10 pounds what electric start adds with a lightweight battery?

DITCHBANGER · Sep 15, 2013

Yes with a 3.5lbs lithium battery, es is 10lbs

powderup · Sep 15, 2013

U could port your track and get rid of all your idler wheels. Make sure u r runnin good scratchers tho if you get rid of the idlers. Not sure how porting affects the flexedge. Basically dont overport it. Just drill one 7/8" hole behind each center paddle. Not sure of the total weight savings but i bet its at least 5 lbs. Just givin u ideas.

Nytroty · Sep 16, 2013

Just add a 872 big bore to the list you have above and call it done. That will be the best all around sled on the snow!

Matte Murder · Sep 16, 2013

Nytro the parts are headed back to Dave as we speak. Talked to him this morning. He is adamant about using the stock exhaust on the ETEC whether running full stock or his 872. Says they tested them all and they all lose power and cause issues. My full SLP set up has never caused any issue but it does run less clutch weight for the same RPM which is a pretty definite sign of some power loss. That was about 10-15lbs of easy weight loss that is gone. Crud....

alt · Sep 16, 2013

Not trying to make a sale here but here is some factual info to ponder. C Moly being a great material for strength, Ti in most cases depending on grade is a lot stronger, but can tend to be slightly more brittle, yet has a natural "springy" quality to it that can and does soak up an impact to a point better than CM. Whether you go with C moly or Ti a super cool red neck repair kit to keep on hand is 4 small hose clamps in your tool kit. 90% of the time the rear main tube will be the one to fail, and if it does the hose clamps and a wrench make a great splint. IMO if your going for a weight loss plan, and as long as it is properly welded, don't be afraid of the Titanium. If the extra 2 lb weight loss isn't the goal go CM. Hope that helps. Thanks!
Dan

winter brew · Sep 17, 2013

alt said:
Not trying to make a sale here but here is some factual info to ponder. C Moly being a great material for strength, Ti in most cases depending on grade is a lot stronger, but can tend to be slightly more brittle, yet has a natural "springy" quality to it that can and does soak up an impact to a point better than CM. Whether you go with C moly or Ti a super cool red neck repair kit to keep on hand is 4 small hose clamps in your tool kit. 90% of the time the rear main tube will be the one to fail, and if it does the hose clamps and a wrench make a great splint. IMO if your going for a weight loss plan, and as long as it is properly welded, don't be afraid of the Titanium. If the extra 2 lb weight loss isn't the goal go CM. Hope that helps. Thanks!
Dan

I think you might be getting a call soon. :face-icon-small-win
Dan, do you offer Ti bolts for a -arms and rear skid by chance? Or a list of what is needed and what the weight loss potential of Ti suspension bolts is?

bnorth · Sep 17, 2013

I was under the impression that the stock A-arms are cromo?

Matte Murder · Sep 17, 2013

Pretty sure they are mild steel, not cro mo. Only reason I am changing mine out is weight. The stock ones are pretty durable and bend rather than break.

Matte Murder · Sep 17, 2013

I am interested in the answer to Winter Brews question. Dan what is the total amount of weight that can be saved on the XM using your Ti parts?

AZ800 · Sep 17, 2013

powderup said:
U could port your track and get rid of all your idler wheels. Make sure u r runnin good scratchers tho if you get rid of the idlers. Not sure how porting affects the flexedge. Basically dont overport it. Just drill one 7/8" hole behind each center paddle. Not sure of the total weight savings but i bet its at least 5 lbs. Just givin u ideas.

I just took 5 - 1" holes out of a 136x2.52 pitch track and the whole bag of plugs maaaaybe weighs 5lbs, prolly a bit less. Didn't weight it, but it's not more than 5lbs.
The 163 only has about 3 more rows of lugs compared to the lower pitch 136 track, so drilling one hole per pitch is worth about a pound.

alt · Sep 17, 2013

All depends on what parts. Not sure what your going for or how far you want to go. Let me know and I can help you out, or everything is listed on the web site for weight loss, except for the mysterious rear bolt kit, which I do have just haven't put it on the site yet.It is a 24 bolt and 5 nut kit for $245.00. I also have the chain case (Or belt drive) adjuster bolts. As far as a weight savings I don't have an exact but you can get pretty close by comparing per piece with the other kits. Ill "speculate" (what the heck, haven't done that for a while) and do that before the nights over. Let me put it to you this way.... Unless your simply going for the cool look, and they are sexy, the bolts would be one of the last few things on the list for weight loss. It takes a lot to lose a lot when it comes to fasteners. Most guys don't see that. Do this some day. Take a hand full of steel bolts and put them on a scale. Now take 45% off that figure..not much for the $. Best thing to do is get the big ones first, if your not buying them in a kit. Im not trying to discourage anyone, im just putting it into a real perspective. They are worth doing but you have to be to the point of the end of the road for other things to chose from. Ill see if I can get a rough number on the loss here in a sec. I know I have it at the shop. Thanks!
Dan

alt · Sep 17, 2013

Front torque arm bolts 4
RTA bolts 2
front track shock 1
FTA shock link 1
Rear idlers 2
Rear shock bolts 2
spreader shafts 6
Idler adjusters 2
chain case adjuster w/nut 1 each
1.2lbs savings
$245.00

i'llDooit · Sep 17, 2013

lbs?

storm trooper · Sep 18, 2013

I'm trying to decide what to coat the inside of the tunnel with to reduce the snow and ice buildup. Last weekend I tried testing some plastidip to see what it's all about. I think it may work well and if it doesn't it will be easy to remove. Probably end up having to do it every year.....at least..... but that is not that big of a deal IMO. Tried spraying fluid film last year. Waste of time and money.

winter brew · Sep 18, 2013

I have used that spray on stuff for lawnmower decks...it helps for maybe a ride or 2.
There are some cheap, spray on "superhydrophobic" products out there that might help but I think they all need to be re applied frequently.

Weight loss on my 13 XM

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