Team clutch kit

M8ltd16 · Oct 12, 2017

Looking for recommendations on a clutch kit for a 2016 m8000 ltd.
in Ontario so sea level and not always easy to get parts from the states.
Pretty sure my dealer deals with speedwerx so theres that.
Fairly new with real sleds but know enough to realize the clutching isn't so great.

Old & slow · Oct 13, 2017

M8ltd16 said:
Looking for recommendations on a clutch kit for a 2016 m8000 ltd.
in Ontario so sea level and not always easy to get parts from the states.
Pretty sure my dealer deals with speedwerx so theres that.
Fairly new with real sleds but know enough to realize the clutching isn't so great.

You may also want to consider that the 3 inch tracks are not great on trails and aren't build for speed. Not sure of your intended use but a 2.6 is better but still not real trail friendly. That being said the 2016 ltd is geared at 19/50 with 7 tooth drivers. That was to slow for deep snow at elevation riding, I geared mine to 21/49. The clutch kit will need to fit your usage, so a little more info on what the machine will be doing would help. If i was building a M 8000 ltd for low elevation I would be using a smaller lug track, 8 tooth drivers, re gearing and then clutch it accordingly. I hope this helps.

M8ltd16 · Oct 13, 2017

Alright thanks for the input. I gusse i should have mentioned theres no trails for this guy. I may be in the "flat lands" but i make the best of it. Technical tree riding is what i do. Im not the type to go straight up the hills we do have.

That being sayd im not looking to spend a ton of money. Just feel like there's a alot to be gained. I really figured gearing would help. I replaced the aluminium sprocket with a steel one (just for piece of mind) and was going to gear it up a bit but dealler suggested otherwise. I think he thought i just wanted to go "faster".

So maybe im just better off gearing it up and see how that works. Is a different length chain needed to do that?

knifedge · Oct 13, 2017

MDS probably work pretty well down there..

Not sure seconndary setup though....XF helix and spring most likely

Yeah, research the XF setups then go from there..

Old & slow · Oct 14, 2017

M8ltd16 said:
Alright thanks for the input. I gusse i should have mentioned theres no trails for this guy. I may be in the "flat lands" but i make the best of it. Technical tree riding is what i do. Im not the type to go straight up the hills we do have.

That being sayd im not looking to spend a ton of money. Just feel like there's a alot to be gained. I really figured gearing would help. I replaced the aluminium sprocket with a steel one (just for piece of mind) and was going to gear it up a bit but dealler suggested otherwise. I think he thought i just wanted to go "faster".

So maybe im just better off gearing it up and see how that works. Is a different length chain needed to do that?

The chain will fit on a 21/49 set of gears, AC re-geared in 2017 to 21/49 on all the M sleds with 7 tooth drivers. The helix in your sled should be a 48 and that is made for elevation, there is big gains to be had. A softer secondary spring and more primary weight is also needed.

JammerMan · Oct 15, 2017

I run mds weights with a Polaris black primary spring cat sea level secondary spring with cat sea level multi angle helix . Also re geared to 21/49 here at sea level it pulls hard

sno*jet · Oct 15, 2017

id start with factory stuff, make sure dealer did low elevation calibration (on a 17 it was different drive spring and weights)
then do the gearing as suggested.
then ride it a lot in your honey holes and see if its not just perfect. jmo.

M8ltd16 · Oct 25, 2017

Thanks for the help guys. My dealler says its the low elevation clutching in there. Ill do the gearing and take it from there

DalensM8 · Oct 26, 2017

Contact Kevin Hubbard at Hubs Performance.com, he has developed a clutch kit for the 2016 limited. He also recommends gearing up.

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