Ok we know that there's a new mounting location to accommodate the taller lug track. Question I have is my 12 has a lower hole for mounting in the rear but not one in the front. Are the 13's lowered in the front hole? And rear? And if so will us 12 guys have to drill a new hole for the front bolt to accommodate the taller lug track? Anyone one know, I'm hearing the new mounting locations also helps with trenching?
Suspension mounting location of 13's
- Thread starter Hilly
- Start date
S
there was def and update in produced at some point cuz some sleds (like mine) M8 snopro has the holes. They say in the new cat slide show they running them in lower holes on both helped. Im gunna try it in next couple weeks in revy and see
I
I'd like to know how low that front hole is
G
If you move the front hole the same as the rear hole, it comes out to about 5/8" down and 1/16" forward.
I've done it it to a couple sleds.
You do need to grind the rivet on the inside of the tunnel in order to bolt the rear skid back in.
The people I did it for said it helped with the trenching. I have been meaning to try it, just haven't yet.
I've done it it to a couple sleds.
You do need to grind the rivet on the inside of the tunnel in order to bolt the rear skid back in.
The people I did it for said it helped with the trenching. I have been meaning to try it, just haven't yet.
On the 13s they said that the front end was narrowed to 38" and the rear was moved down that 5/8s both front and rear and that was the only change.
Well the difference in how well the 13 handles (side hill, lay over, front end light feeling over the 12 was pretty significant to me.
If I had a 12 I'd be for moving it down and see if it makes it perform better.
sled_guy
Well the difference in how well the 13 handles (side hill, lay over, front end light feeling over the 12 was pretty significant to me.
If I had a 12 I'd be for moving it down and see if it makes it perform better.
sled_guy
Hilly:
Have a little look-see at this........ This should help with your question
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rBfYBHQ59jA
Have a little look-see at this........ This should help with your question
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rBfYBHQ59jA
S
The tech bullitin says to lower front hole 3/4 of a inch, i did this and made big improvement
Interesting
Good video Jeff thanks. So yes the rear mounting hole is there looks like a guy needs to drill out a new hole for the front arms about 3/4 inch lower from listening to the techs. Now to come up with the $$$ for the track. You mention a tech bulletin got a copy you can post of it?
Good video Jeff thanks. So yes the rear mounting hole is there looks like a guy needs to drill out a new hole for the front arms about 3/4 inch lower from listening to the techs. Now to come up with the $$$ for the track. You mention a tech bulletin got a copy you can post of it?
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Dropping the front 3/4" helps the sled get up on the snow better. It pops up and doesn't saw through. We have moved several of them with great results.
So Eric do you think a three inch track could be ran with out issue if you do the suspension relocation?
Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk
S
and when you say dropping the front helped lots, did you drop the rear too and keep the same angle?? also wondering about the 3" thats coming out
G
LOL. I see in the video the enthusiasm with the design leaders LOL. Maybe Polaris and Doo have Yoga in the morning, but I see a little more passion from their employees.
Never ran my sled in stock positions. Lowered the front by moving the middle shock in the skid for more travel and rear in the lower hole with a sag built in. Much better in powder. Tried to tell people but it is hard to change old opinions.
After a season like this, IMO, it needs some more drop in the front. 3/4" is too much with the stock rails, unless you suck in the limiter strap some more.
What we really need is new rails with the lower shock mount moved forward 5/8"to allow the existing limiter strap to be fully used in the upper hole and a full inch drop in the front too. This would need a curve built into the front of the rail (like every other modern skid built today) to eliminate the power robbing front rail pressure in a bumpy climb.
This set-up would actually make the limiter strap useful. Fully out for early season and one hole tight for spring.
While your at modernizing your skid to rider forward Cat, give us the correct springs in the skid to allow the rider forward weight to transfer easier. When you took away the well thought out TCL link in the rear arm you took away most of our transfer. Every Cat since has felt front heavy and this one is the worst.
That wimpy 110 lb spring in the middle needs the rear to be preloaded to at least 300 lbs just to hold the sled up without a rider on board. Get your s**t together LOL.
Here let me help you LOL. Do the rail change and front arm relocate. Install a 150 or 160 lb spring with zero preload in the middle (or if you want to spend the extra dough use a dual spring set-up; 325 tender, 200 main, .95 cross over spacing, zero preload). Install the 210 lb spring from you 2011 M in the rear and set the preload to 200 to 225 lbs.
Your finished. that's all you godda do to the PC to make it feel light in the front and you get the bonus of lift in the deep. Oh, and good pick on the 38" front end and more steering, just finish it with less lock to lock on the bars please.
I don't think I'm all that LOL. I just thought I would put out what I have done to mine this season in a funny way, and it works very well and I truly hope AC would give this out to every one else for 2013 instead of just half way.
Never ran my sled in stock positions. Lowered the front by moving the middle shock in the skid for more travel and rear in the lower hole with a sag built in. Much better in powder. Tried to tell people but it is hard to change old opinions.
After a season like this, IMO, it needs some more drop in the front. 3/4" is too much with the stock rails, unless you suck in the limiter strap some more.
What we really need is new rails with the lower shock mount moved forward 5/8"to allow the existing limiter strap to be fully used in the upper hole and a full inch drop in the front too. This would need a curve built into the front of the rail (like every other modern skid built today) to eliminate the power robbing front rail pressure in a bumpy climb.
This set-up would actually make the limiter strap useful. Fully out for early season and one hole tight for spring.
While your at modernizing your skid to rider forward Cat, give us the correct springs in the skid to allow the rider forward weight to transfer easier. When you took away the well thought out TCL link in the rear arm you took away most of our transfer. Every Cat since has felt front heavy and this one is the worst.
That wimpy 110 lb spring in the middle needs the rear to be preloaded to at least 300 lbs just to hold the sled up without a rider on board. Get your s**t together LOL.
Here let me help you LOL. Do the rail change and front arm relocate. Install a 150 or 160 lb spring with zero preload in the middle (or if you want to spend the extra dough use a dual spring set-up; 325 tender, 200 main, .95 cross over spacing, zero preload). Install the 210 lb spring from you 2011 M in the rear and set the preload to 200 to 225 lbs.
Your finished. that's all you godda do to the PC to make it feel light in the front and you get the bonus of lift in the deep. Oh, and good pick on the 38" front end and more steering, just finish it with less lock to lock on the bars please.
I don't think I'm all that LOL. I just thought I would put out what I have done to mine this season in a funny way, and it works very well and I truly hope AC would give this out to every one else for 2013 instead of just half way.
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I agree with Geo, the lag of enthusiasm is almost shocking, these guys are definitely not part of marketing division.
I really hope Arctic Cat will sometime in the future start again taken the mountain division seriously, it sure doesn´t look like the are passionate about it at the moment from this video
I really hope Arctic Cat will sometime in the future start again taken the mountain division seriously, it sure doesn´t look like the are passionate about it at the moment from this video
B
So... would it work if just swap longer front shock in the skid?
All I Know from the Video is
The Cat Engineers sure like to chew Gum while talking!
Good Job Cat on the 13 sales pitch. Not !
The Cat Engineers sure like to chew Gum while talking!
Good Job Cat on the 13 sales pitch. Not !
A
He said it beat a pro!! Sold
Lol jk
They need to address there belt issues if they keep playing dumb there going to lose lots of snowchecks, fact is i know 3-4 people pending a snowcheck on if they fix our belt issues....
We will see, primarys on back order that means there making more, but will they be QCed any better? We'll see.
-Aksnopro
Lol jk
They need to address there belt issues if they keep playing dumb there going to lose lots of snowchecks, fact is i know 3-4 people pending a snowcheck on if they fix our belt issues....
We will see, primarys on back order that means there making more, but will they be QCed any better? We'll see.
-Aksnopro
J
Not to get away from the point of this thread (sorry Hilly) but it looks like the little improvements to the '13 should make for a better sled than the '12. Now for '14 bring that USA-built 800 motor and drop 30 lbs and I'll be back on a Cat!!
On another note, I know there are guys from the Cat factory reading this forum, so if you need a Sales Engineer (BSME with sales experience) I'd be willing to enthusiastically talk sleds with anyone at any show across the country. I'd even be willing to sell my Pro RMK and ride a Cat if I had to.
Sorry Hilly. I'll let you get back to figuring out how to spend more money on your sled for next year.
Joe
On another note, I know there are guys from the Cat factory reading this forum, so if you need a Sales Engineer (BSME with sales experience) I'd be willing to enthusiastically talk sleds with anyone at any show across the country. I'd even be willing to sell my Pro RMK and ride a Cat if I had to.
Sorry Hilly. I'll let you get back to figuring out how to spend more money on your sled for next year.
Joe
What kind of oil do you guys use in your sleds?
