Track vibration?????

UtahEdge · Dec 24, 2012

I have a 2012 1100t. Over the summer I dropped the skid to the 2013 position, installed an anti-stab and had the updates done. At high speeds the vibration from the track is so bad it feels like the sled is going to shake apart. Is anyone else having this problem? Any ideas on what it might be?
Thanks for your help.

Edit: I found out why it was shaking so bad. See below

Get.Slicked · Dec 24, 2012

How tight is your track? Does it vibrate more in the powder or the hard packed trail?

KSH · Dec 24, 2012

UtahEdge said:
I have a 2012 1100t. Over the summer I dropped the skid to the 2013 position, installed an anti-stab and had the updates done. At high speeds the vibration from the track is so bad it feels like the sled is going to shake apart. Is anyone else having this problem? Any ideas on what it might be?
Thanks for your help.

Check your rail tips, if they look good then look at tightness and alignment.

aksnopro · Dec 24, 2012

Make sure the lugs are not hitting anywhere, might have a bearing starting to fail, and lots of times ice buildup in the tunnel can cause it.

aksnopro · Dec 24, 2012

Also is your anti stab kit 4 wheels or two, think the proclimb can only run the two inners.

UtahEdge · Dec 24, 2012

Get.Slicked said:
How tight is your track? Does it vibrate more in the powder or the hard packed trail?

It is bad in the powder and REAL bad on the hard packed trail.

UtahEdge · Dec 24, 2012

aksnopro said:
Also is your anti stab kit 4 wheels or two, think the proclimb can only run the two inners.

Its a two wheel kit.
How do you guys get the tension right I have heard several methods like 2 inch sag with a 10 pound weight. Is that right?

KSH · Dec 24, 2012

UtahEdge said:
It is bad in the powder and REAL bad on the hard packed trail.

How did you do your alignment?
I did mine quickly by using the hifax and track lugs, but when I looked at the inner rear wheels it was seriously off. When I aligned by them it creeped a lot easier.

UtahEdge · Dec 24, 2012

KSH said:
How did you do your alignment?
I did mine quickly by using the hifax and track lugs, but when I looked at the inner rear wheels it was seriously off. When I aligned by them it creeped a lot easier.

I made sure that the gap between the hifax and the lug was the same on both sides. What do you line the inner wheels with?

KSH · Dec 24, 2012

UtahEdge said:
I made sure that the gap between the hifax and the lug was the same on both sides. What do you line the inner wheels with?

Make sure they are centered in there running lugs not rubbing one side.

UtahEdge · Dec 24, 2012

KSH said:
Make sure they are centered in there running lugs not rubbing one side.

HOLY CRAP!!!! I went out and checked the inner wheels, they werent rubbing and the alignment looked good but I found this. Would the track being to tight cause this.

UtahEdge · Dec 24, 2012

This sled has just over 300 miles

SaberKitty · Dec 24, 2012

If the rear wheel alignment was off, the vertical protrusion of the track clips would damage the wheels pretty fast.

KSH · Dec 24, 2012

UtahEdge said:
HOLY CRAP!!!! I went out and checked the inner wheels, they werent rubbing and the alignment looked good but I found this. Would the track being to tight cause this.

To tight and out of alignment may of caused it.
I believe some of the 800s had a problem like that.

Sledbrain2 · Dec 24, 2012

KSH said:
How did you do your alignment?
I did mine quickly by using the hifax and track lugs, but when I looked at the inner rear wheels it waos seriously off. When I aligned by them it creeped a lot easier.

Use a tape measure and make sure each side track tension bolt is exactly the same length. As long as the gap between the guides and hyfax is the same at front and rear leave it alone. So you may have a 1/4 inch gap on one side and 5/8 inch on the other. As long as its the same front to back that is ok. I have also measured from tunnel to center of driver then do the same with rear inner wheel. You probably have to use a laser to get accurate measurement from rear of tunnel. You can shim the rear wheels with washers to get them in line with the drivers. hope this helps

byeatts · Dec 24, 2012

UtahEdge said:
I have a 2012 1100t. Over the summer I dropped the skid to the 2013 position, installed an anti-stab and had the updates done. At high speeds the vibration from the track is so bad it feels like the sled is going to shake apart. Is anyone else having this problem? Any ideas on what it might be?
Thanks for your help.

Edit: I found out why it was shaking so bad. See below

I had it happen when I lost some clips

Get.Slicked · Dec 24, 2012

Bogey wheels and idlers fail. It's just part of the game.
Take your track, loosen the axle bolts, take-up the slack between the hyfax and track; 2" free hanging is spec, I like to run the turbos tighter, though. After a track has had time to stretch, run it at almost 2 fingers width between the hyfax/track, run the sled on a trackstand, let the track come to a gradual stop. Stick your index finger between the side of the hyfax and the drive lugs. You are feeling for close to the same gap on both sides. If the left side is closer than the right, the left adjuster is tighter to the track causing the track to derail to the right. The idea is to find the sweet spot so the track runs centered. Tighten the hell out of the axle pinch bolts when you're finished.

WyoBoy1000 · Dec 25, 2012

Not the first one.

gary ol kitty · Dec 25, 2012

wasn't there a recall for the 1100's last year for that

Get.Slicked · Dec 25, 2012

Yes, for the idler wheels only.

Track vibration?????

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