drop and roll

joshkoltes · Nov 24, 2009

how do i keep everything straight doing this? i dont want smaller drivers for bigger paddles and i have a 1 7/8" longer chaincase on the shelf. i have stripped the entire sled down to the tunnel, bulkhead, and belly pan.

im thinking if i can just get my jackshaft straight and secure ill slip the case on and mark everything out. but how do i secure it?

maby i can run a center line down the tunnel, run my square between the line and the jack shaft. then use my speed square for the height of the shaft, or make some kind of spacer, yeh a spacer! that way i can clamp it secure against the spacer while i mark everything else out.

now how would i go about the other side, speedo side track shaft? ooh, maby just run the square inside the tunnel wall against the drivers. then measure the distance from the top of the tunnel th the shaft?

any one have better ideas??

AKSNOWRIDER · Nov 24, 2009

joshkoltes said:
how do i keep everything straight doing this? i dont want smaller drivers for bigger paddles and i have a 1 7/8" longer chaincase on the shelf. i have stripped the entire sled down to the tunnel, bulkhead, and belly pan.

im thinking if i can just get my jackshaft straight and secure ill slip the case on and mark everything out. but how do i secure it?

maby i can run a center line down the tunnel, run my square between the line and the jack shaft. then use my speed square for the height of the shaft, or make some kind of spacer, yeh a spacer! that way i can clamp it secure against the spacer while i mark everything else out.

now how would i go about the other side, speedo side track shaft? ooh, maby just run the square inside the tunnel wall against the drivers. then measure the distance from the top of the tunnel th the shaft?

any one have better ideas??

I would take all measurements from the existing holes for both the jackshaft and the driveshaft..moving both exactly the same distance on each side........

TRIPLESWILLNEVERDIE! · Nov 25, 2009

Build a cradle using some pipe or conduit with the same i.d. as you jackshafts o.d. cut the pipe down the center about 1.6" the cut the pipe off at 1.5" so now you have two halves. Now get a couple 1" long pieces of 1.5" angle. Install your stock chaincase and tighten the bolts. Put the two halves you made on your jackshaft and butt the angle up againt the halves. Tack weld the angle to the half rounds. Now hold them in place onto the jackshaft and top of bulkhead and drill a 3/16" hole though the angle and bulkhead. Install 3/16" pop rivets in the holes. Now your jackshaft is locked into place. You can remove your case and verify there is no play. Your jackshaft is now locked in place and you now have a cradle tool you can later rent out to you buddies.

If you need pic's to better explain this I can get some. If you need to know about how to locate your new driveshaft holes let me know.

joshkoltes · Nov 25, 2009

yep

i like the way you think! thanks alot.

w8tn4u · Nov 25, 2009

more important is how are you going to fill the old holes in the tunnel from the drive shaft?. I would scribe lines into the tunnel from the existing holes. plug and sand the holes then remeasure using the using the scribe lines as reference points.

SnowXTC · Nov 25, 2009

I recommend buying a template. My new tunnel came with a 4 and 1 DnR, it was actually relatively easy to do. The templates work awesome.

I guess you could also create your own template, which if you do not buy one, I really recommend you do. You only want to cut your tunnel and bulkhead once.

sykosledhead · Nov 27, 2009

snow xtc has the ticket. i just swiped an old stop sign (aluminum) built a jig for one side and retro'ed it to the other side and whala, same same. 2-4 beers later and some careful cutting you gotta great mod. go with it, its a hoot and it really makes a difference.

syko

Snowjunky · Nov 27, 2009

Josh what kind of sled? What brand drop and roll? If its a gen 2 and a tyson I will make a cardboard template for ya off mine

Snowjunky · Nov 27, 2009

Whatever you decide to do make sure you reference the steering hoop holes. That way when you flip to the clutch side you turn your template around and line up the hoop holes and you are the same

joshkoltes · Nov 27, 2009

Snowjunky said:
Josh what kind of sled? What brand drop and roll? If its a gen 2 and a tyson I will make a cardboard template for ya off mine

really dont want to let any body know what kind of sled to not give myself a bad rep.
prettymuch just a bunch of parts i had laying around, old polaris wedge chassis, newer 600 tripple tripple polaris, ultra single pipe so the motor will fit, homade silencer, lightened everywhere, removed all stock coolers and added doo tunnel coolers, 128 x 1 3/4 x 15 cat snocross track, 9 in wheels, dirt bike seat, doo freestyle handle bars, rmk chain case

problem was when i put in the coolers i lost the clearence between them and the drivers.
definitely a waste of time.
think i have a theory to try, use the extra pipe from the shaft saddle slip it over the shaft tack a thin piece of flat to it then tack the extra bearing holder to the flat. switch sides with the finished piece and mark all 4 holes.

fordpickupman · Nov 27, 2009

templates

I vote for making templates. I have made my own for all of my drop n roll adventures. It is the easiest way to go, and the old holes get covered up by the templates.

joshkoltes · Nov 27, 2009

plate

yeah template will probably be the best way

SnowXTC · Nov 28, 2009

I can get you the templates for a 4 and 1 DnR for a Gen 2 bulkhead.

joshkoltes · Nov 28, 2009

dnr

im just using an rmk chaincase on an old xlt chassis, so whatever that moves the drivers is all im moving it. its somthing like 2 down and 1 back or so. nothing too dramatic.

Snowjunky · Nov 28, 2009

Actually its alot of drop and roll. I was attempting the same thing . I blueprinted my stock rmk chaincase then was blueprinting an edge case. Using autocad superimposed them on top of each other. Was going to take that print and build a template. Found a tyson case that I had a template for already. Another project made easier
Here is how I would do it. Pull the tub and footwells. Lay a piece of sheetmetal trimmed to fit on the case side of the bulkhead Mark every rivet hole hoop holes and both axle holes. Find center of those two holes with a compass. Lay the edge case on top of that lining up the jackshft hole perfectly. Rotate it back to where you want your roll and mark that center with an 1/8 hole. Mark and drill your new bolt holes for the edge with 1/8 holes. These are your pilots. Take the pattern and rivet it on to the bulkhead with the stock rivet and hoop holes and drill your new pilots. You will need to enlarge them later. Pull the template off and reverse it on the other side(mirror image in other words) rivet it on with the hoop holes. These are the same on both sides of the bulkhead
Drill the drive shaft 1/8 hole and now you have centers. If you good with a compass you could divide for the 3 bearing cup holes also
If ya want I think I still have the blueprint of the rmk chaincase. If you have some kind of autocad I could e-mail it to you. If not I will plot it and mail it to you

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drop and roll

joshkoltes

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AKSNOWRIDER

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TRIPLESWILLNEVERDIE!

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joshkoltes

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w8tn4u

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SnowXTC

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