Clutch Wieght Help!

D

dyrengd

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Oct 24, 2009

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Sanpete County, UT

• Mar 30, 2010

• #1

Clutch Weight Help!

I need some direction on how to add rivets to the MTX wieghts in my clutch for the 2006 RMk 900. I sent the clutch to SLP to have them balance last fall. They installed the blue/pinks spring and MTX weights. I tach at 7600-7700 and need to add a gram to each wieght to get to 7400. How do I do that? Help!:face-icon-small-dis

 

Last edited: Mar 30, 2010

W

winter4ever

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Sep 15, 2008

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Spokane, Wa

• Mar 30, 2010

• #2

take your weights out, and if you need to pull any rivits out of the weights you just drill them out a little and hit them with a punch, they pop right out. to put new weights in is easy, just put the rivit in the hole and hit the other end with a hammer. you will need a hard medal surface to lay the other end of the rivit on so is smashes thr rivit, not the weight its self. you will need to know what rivits you have in now. i believe the aluminum are 1 gram, steal with a hole are 2 grams, and solid steal are 3 grams. the rivits in the tip will have a more dramatic affect on rmps than the ones in the heal.

 

D

dyrengd

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Sanpete County, UT

• Mar 30, 2010

• #3

How do I get to the weights? Do I need to pull the clutch or is there another way?

 

W

winter4ever

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Spokane, Wa

• Mar 30, 2010

• #4

no you dont need to pull the clutch. I just usually get a pry bar and pry it open, then take an old spark plug and put the thread side between the two halves to keep it open while you pull the weights out. if you have never done it you might want to have a buddy come show you how the first time. once you know how its really easy though. when you get the clutch spread apart (about a half inch) and you are taking the weights pins out, One side is an alan head (cant remember size) and the other is a 3/8 inch wrench, its a lot easier to just hold the wrench and turn the alan side, instead of the other way around cuz its kinda easy to round off the head.

 

H

Himark

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• Mar 30, 2010

• #5

I would leave the RPM right where its at. 7700 wont hurt em a bit and IMO is the reason the crank will hold up. I think the 7400 is the most likely range of failure.

 

J

jskattum606

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Dec 3, 2007

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Bozeman, MT

• Mar 30, 2010

• #6

I will agree with the higher RPM theory. Im spinning mine at 8000RPM right now. Thats with a turbo though

 

D

dyrengd

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Sanpete County, UT

• Mar 30, 2010

• #7

So if I put on an SLP pipe this summer will that be compatable with that RPM range?

 

2poor

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Boise Idaho

• Mar 30, 2010

• #8

3rd that I broke a crank running at 7400 after that run rpm up to 8000 and never broke a crank again.

 

guidoxpress

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• Mar 30, 2010

• #9

2poor said:

3rd that I broke a crank running at 7400 after that run rpm up to 8000 and never broke a crank again.

Click to expand...

WOW...never heard the 7400 theory...very intersting..i will make damn sure i dont run that low, lol...im hitting 7800-7900 , 100% of the time now :face-icon-small-win

 

H

Himark

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• Mar 31, 2010

• #10

guidoxpress said:

WOW...never heard the 7400 theory...very intersting..i will make damn sure i dont run that low, lol...im hitting 7800-7900 , 100% of the time now :face-icon-small-win

Click to expand...

Polaris announced way back when the ultras were throwing cranks that they found the cranks failure rate was at a certain RPM but if you ran below that RPM or above it the failure rates declined. They had a fancy metalurgist term for it but the reality was it was just the "sweet spot"