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144" Clutching and Suspension

Flatcat12

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Jan 1, 2013
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I have an 07 Crossfire 8 that I stretched out to a 144” x 2” track. Just got back from Tog (elev. 9600 ft) and the sled performed poorly even though I had the 9000+ weights and helix. When I cracked the throttle in powder the skis would not come up, it was a lot of work to side hill and it climbed like crap. I climbed on my buddy’s Doo and it was effortless to ride in the powder.

Does anyone have some clutching and suspension suggestions to get a little more performance out of this thing without breaking the bank? So far everything but the track is still stock.
 
M

minet

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Nov 26, 2007
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what rpm did u hit pinned wideopen

and remove swaybar
 

Flatcat12

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Wide open I hit 8000 rpm. I did a few test runs. At 5000 rpm I could get a little ski lift, but at 4000 and 6000 I got nothing.
 

backcountryislife

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Revving too high on that motor will lose you power badly.

By 8000 you're down 20 horse from peak.

upl_man_574.jpg



Also you may want to mess with the suspension to allow more ski lift, if it keeps the skis pinned, it takes some of the fun out of it, and a 144 should NOT keep the skis pinned.
 
M

minet

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Nov 26, 2007
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YUP your reving to high ,, you should target 7650 rpm or that motor ,, look at the chart back country posted.

so you lost 20 + HP there



when i say target ,, change weights heavier until you get rpm u want ,, or higher in some cases

so if you are running 73 gram weights now ,, change them to 78ish.

that will bring your rpms down ,, but might need some trial and error here


also make sure your clutches are aligned ,, get a alignment tool for 19 bucks from your dealer


lessen the ski shock pressure maybe also , and loosen the shock pressure in the front skid
 

Flatcat12

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I thought if I losened the front shock of the rear skid it would increase the ski pressure and make my problem worse.
 

backcountryislife

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To get more rise, increase preload on center shock, and decrease preload on rear or torsion shocks.

opposite to keep the skis down more.

Then once you have the initial rise you want, change limiter to limit how far it goes if you need to.
 

Flatcat12

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Well here is where I landed.

I dropped the front suspension mount and did the rest of the stuff on the picture. The thing is a real wheely monster.

I still don't get much sag in when I sit on the sled, but I get great transfer when I get on the throttle. If it kills my back I may remove the triangle block.

My adjustable clutch weights are on back order.

Thanks everyone for your help.

Suspension analysis_8.jpeg
 

JFro50

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Also take out your sway bar if you haven't already. I didnt see anyone post that if so sorry I missed it. Huge help when rolling into sidehill
 

Flatcat12

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Jan 1, 2013
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Well here is where I landed.

I dropped the front suspension mount and did the rest of the stuff on the picture. The thing is a real wheely monster.

I still don't get much sag in when I sit on the sled, but I get great transfer when I get on the throttle. If it kills my back I may remove the triangle block.

My adjustable clutch weights are on back order.

Thanks everyone for your help.

And I took off the sway bar.
 

Flatcat12

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I'm getting Cutlers. The give the widest range of weight. I won't need to take the weights out for low alt.
 
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