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Dropping the front 3/4" helps the sled get up on the snow better. It pops up and doesn't saw through. We have moved several of them with great results.
Been running this all season (which has been about a month long)and it changes the characteristics of the sled tremendously, much easier sidehilling, less trenching and more predictable handling on the bumps and trails. Switched it back and fourth a couple of times and by far this change is a big deal and I will not be returning mine to the original mounting position.
Did you drop both the front and rear or only the front?
Hilly:
Have a little look-see at this........ This should help with your question
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rBfYBHQ59jA
Am running an anti stab kit. May want to try and run a looser track tension just about to where it is slipping
are you going to have to run an antistab kit, my 162 in stock location i have to run my track really tight to keep it from clicking off the rail tips in the heavy wet snow we have know (or maybe i have another problem)
Except that you eat the track on the heat exchanger on HCR if you run it loose.
I wonder if AC knows that?
All it will take is a better curve on the front of the rails. AC still has flatland rails designed for a suspention that is fully coupled. For hill climbers and turbos that is good but sometimes for boondocking with a 125HP machine it is nice to be less coupled.
If I knew (and I'm sure AC doesn't yet know) what was really coming in 2013 I would wait and order what they install for rails and new front arm it would need to be done correctly. But I think I`ll just build.
Yeah, what is the hole 1/2 inch back, and can I drill a hole 5/8 inch lower?
And in case anyones wondering, no belt issues and runnin' Cat APV.:face-icon-small-ton