Roll-Over Valve kits for Proclimb M1100 from Four Stroke Solutions LLC

Yes same price as in December, which is $199 without the ROVCM and $324 with the ROVCM (Electronic Roll-Over Valve Control Module) plus shipping.

The ROVCM is a nice feature as it makes the valve close much stronger/faster. Which can be handy if you need to roll the sled several times a day, either by accident or on purpose to roll the sled over to get unstuck!

Bill

I updated the first post, "Roll-Over Valve kits" are officially a Patented item!
US Patent 8,225,766 Oil Tank Breather Line Solenoid Valve or commonly known as "Roll-Over Valve Kits", with other patents still pending.

It's been a long and educational experience for sure, but I did learn a lot about how the process works.:thumb:

Bill

Sage Crusher said:

We have found out that having a roll over ( simple) not repetetaly the ROV kit is not really needed. less than a thimble of oil ever leaks out.
if your stuck and need to roll the sled over- you don't really need it. Whenm we do see you need it is when your in a position where the sled is belly up for a period of time.... or are we missing something here...

S/C:lever:

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Mainly it depends on the situation, such as the angle the sled is sitting at, engine running or not, how long the sled been has on its side, etc.

As Gene mentioned above, even small amounts of oil leakage can build up in the stock air filter and over time cause the filter to become oil soaked.

If the engine is still running while the sled is rolled, the positive crankcase air flow (from the running engine) will actually pump the oil out through the breather line. In this situation you can loose a lot of oil in a very short period of time. I have seen oil leak out to the point where it gets on the clutches/belt, exhaust etc.

A standard tether (without a ROV) helps, but doesn't solve the problem if the sled is on its side for an extended period of time, ie. stuck in a tree well or on the side of a hill:face-icon-small-sho

From personal experience its kind of a p.i.a. when the oil leaks out! It makes a mess, if it gets on the clutches then you have to clean the clutches and put a new belt on. I had one customer tell me that he lost quite a bit of oil and it got on the exhaust which caused a small oil fire. (he was able to put it out ok).
Then there is the issue of the low oil level light coming on while out on a ride and having to add oil (if you have it) so you can keep riding.:frusty:

Often times I will use the ROV to get unstuck. What I will do is turn on the roll-over valve, flip the sled on its side and drag it around. Then flip it back to rubber side down, plug the tether back in and your good to go!
Because the ROV valve is closed, it allows the rider to take his/her time while the sled is on its side. It takes the pressure off of being in a hurry and allows you to maybe catch your breath or wait for a buddy to give you a hand!

With a ROV kit installed there is one less thing to worry about and I can just enjoy the ride :thumb:

Bill

Your welcome S/C:thumb: I'll gladly answer any questions that guys may have about ROVs!

You are correct in that some guys will use a Roll-Over Valve more often then others. Usually mountain riders will bennefit from it more so then trail riders will. However I've shipped a fair amount to sledders in the mid-west as well. Often times guys from the mid-west will install a ROV on their sled, before they head out on a vacation trip to the mountains.
It makes sense, you spend all that time driving to get there. While your there you want to ride every day and try keep the issues to a minimum as much as possible.

Bill

KSH said:

Not all of us put them upside down.:face-icon-small-ton
This is the one that convinced me that I needed the valve.

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:face-icon-small-hap Yeah over the last 30+ years or so, I've probably managed to stick a sled at just about every angle! Now days with cell phone/digital cameras, its getting harder and harder to get away with it! LOL
As long as no one gets hurt or breaks anything (or loose a bunch of oil), its all good.
Then there's always the good natured ribbing from your buddies (with camera in hand of course)! :rockon:

Matte Murder said:

So with the ROVCM style system does the oil shut off happen automatically whether the tether is pulled or not?

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The Tether still has to be pulled when a ROVCM is used.

One of the primary goals of the ROVCM is to create a stronger/faster closing shut-off valve.

While the valve is closed and the sled is on its side, the oil is contained behind the closed valve. Once the sled is flipped back over, the oil will start to drain back out of the valve/vent hose and back in to the tank. Depending on the breather set-up, normally by the time the rider is ready to fire sled back up and take another stab at the hill the oil has drained back to the tank.

During engine operation there is a positive air flow out through the breather hose. The greater the RPM/engine load, the higher the air flow will be. High breather air flow rates have a tendency to slow the oil brain back rate out of the breather system after the sled has been on its side. For example, “getting back in to the throttle right away” after the sled has been rolled. In this case there still may be some residual oil left trapped in the breather system.

Often times while riding in aggressive terrain a rider may need to use the ROV more frequently. In this case there could still be some residual oil left over in the breather system from a previous roll-over event. The ROVCM increases the valves closing strength/closing power by approximately 140%. With a stronger/faster closing valve, it has the ability to better contain any trapped residual oil in the breather system.

Early on while developing the ROVCM, I thought about having it simply “step up” the voltage to create a stronger/faster shut-off valve. However as often times in life, there is no such thing as a “free lunch”! With the valve 140% stronger, it is also using approximately 140% more power as well. Since the shut-off valve only requires a small amount of current to remain closed, a simple step-up device would be wasting electrical energy and creating more heat in the valve solenoid coil.

A better solution is to have a high power output during closing and low power output once the valve is closed. The ROVCM contains a programmable micro-controller that allows it to supply a high power output voltage for a short period of time to quickly close the valve, then switch to a lower voltage output to save on battery power and reduce the operating temperature of the valve, which helps promote longer shut-off valve life.

Since the ROVCM contains a micro-controller and is programmable. It allowed us to add in additional features such as battery voltage monitoring/auto shut down features as well!
http://fourstrokesolutionsllc.webs.com/highperformancerovcm.htm

Bill

HeavyT said:

How does the roll over valve work in conjunction with an existing engine shutdown tether?

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It could be made to work with an existing tether switch as long as it is a normally closed type of tether switch. The existing tether would need to be disconnected from sled and wired in to the main Roll-Over Valve harness. Also I would need to custom build a ROV harness that would allow you to splice in your existing switch.
Since the ROV kit is plug and play (no cutting/splicing wires to connect it to the sled), most guys find it easier to use the tether switch that comes with the kit instead of using the existing tether switch.

Bill

HeavyT said:

I have arctic cats tether installed can it be made to work with your rollover valve?

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Yes it can as long as it's a normally closed switch, which it should be on the M1100T. Your switch will need to be dis-connected from the sled. There are a couple ways to dis-connect it. First you could remove the tether switch wiring at the main wiring harness and plug the wiring back to stock. However, from what I understand removing the terminals from the main connector can be kind of a PIA unless you have the special terminal removal tool!
The second method would be to just cut the tether switch wires. Then splice the two wires (on the sled side) together with a shrink/seal butt connector.

For the Roll-Over Valve harness, I can build one that has two leads on it that will allow you to connect your tether switch to the ROV harness.
For the existing tether switch to ROV harness connection, there are a couple different connector/wiring options, depending on what type of wiring tools you have to work with. If you decide to go this route, we can discuss it in more detail via PM or e-mail.

Also for M1100T sleds that already have the Cat tether switch, you can dis-connect it from the sled using either of the two methods mentioned above. Then install the ROV kit with the supplied tether switch, which is already pre-wired and ready to go! Then you can keep your old tether switch as a spare. If you decide to go this route, you'll also have an extra lanyard cord as well. Which can come in handy if the lanyard/plug gets lost or misplaced.:thumb:

Bill