Seasonal Diamond Drive Maintenance Questions

Frostbite · Sep 19, 2010

I'm still relatively new to Cat and I have an 09 M8 with 1,500 miles. My first time ever dealing with a Diamond Drive was when I swapped out my single row Diamond Drive bearing for a double row bearing before last season. This of course, came with a good Diamond Drive cleaning and a fresh dose of Arctic Cat Synthetic Gear lube. I rode all last season and I haven't looked in the Diamond Drive since.

I have read enough posts revealing that changing the Diamond Drive oil frequently is the key to longevity for the Diamond Drive. Ok, now what?

I have the Arctic Cat service manual and I see a job titled "Flushing the Gear Case". You basically drain the oil, add the flush fluid, run the track a bit, drain the flush fluid and fill with the recommended amount of oil. Is this what I need to do?

Some say it's best to split the case and inspect each time the oil is changed (not a bad idea) but, I if I remember correctly, the screws that hold the cover on the Diamond Drive were just machine screws threaded into the aluminum of the diamond drive body without nutserts to thread into. I'm scared to death I am going to strip one out trying to torque it after replacing the cover, then what?

I also have a new to me, 2005 M5 for my daughter, which I also want to change the fluid. Do the same rules apply?

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Oh here's a helpful post on the subject but, frankly if I can just change the oil and not open the case I'm happy. This whole Diamond Drive thing is still new to me and to be honest, I'm a little spooked at even thinking about opening up the Diamond Drive case.

http://www.hardcoresledder.com/forums/lofiversion/index.php/t230041.html

Jeff K · Sep 19, 2010

I drain the oil frequently (~300 miles) into a clear zip-lock bag and inspect it for any metal/brass filings. It the oil is clean, I just refill the case. If it shows signs of wear metals in the oil, I pull it apart and inspect everything.

Frostbite · Sep 19, 2010

Now that sure is simple and it makes a lot of sense!

Thanks

Are you using Arctic Cat oil?

AaronBND · Sep 19, 2010

Not to get off subject here, but did you hear AC is going back to chain and sprockets and that Yamaha is taking the DD in 2012?

Aaron

Jeff K · Sep 19, 2010

Frostbite said:
Now that sure is simple and it makes a lot of sense!

Thanks

Are you using Arctic Cat oil?

I use Amsoil. http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/tcc.aspx

Frostbite · Sep 19, 2010

It's interesting that Amsoil lists their series 2000 synthetic chaincase gear lube as a replacement for Synthetic ACT gearcase fluid. I wonder how Arctic Cat feels about that?

To be fair, they claim it is a replacement for all snowmobile brand gearcase lubes. So is lube much more universal than manufacturers would like us to believe? I see some guys use ATF, some use #10 hydraulic oil, some use Walmart or Amsoil synthetic gear oil and some pony up for the Arctic Cat Synthetic Gear oil. There's probably no right or wrong as long as oil lube is kept clean and changed frequently?

snowdingo · Sep 19, 2010

I change my DD fluid at the start of every season.

Unless you find metal or something in the old fluid, I wouldn't bother splitting the case. Your procedure is correct: drain out the old, clean it out with the flushing fluid, then fill with the new. To flush, you can either remove the DD (which is nice because you can shake it up nice) or run the track as you mentioned.

Firetrail · Sep 19, 2010

The oil is much more universal than the mfg. would like you to believe. There surely is no magic formula to the DD oil and it absolutely is not worth the huge price per oz. that they charge for it. AC does not have a refinery or formulation plant. Someone makes the stuff for them and it likely costs pennys per oz. There are many equivalents or better out there. Use a good grade synthetic or semi synthetic 75-80 gear oil and you are good. The Valvoline 75-80 synthetic is about $8 a quart and is every bit as good for this app as anything else.

Frostbite said:
It's interesting that Amsoil lists their series 2000 synthetic chaincase gear lube as a replacement for Synthetic ACT gearcase fluid. I wonder how Arctic Cat feels about that?

To be fair, they claim it is a replacement for all snowmobile brand gearcase lubes. So is lube much more universal than manufacturers would like us to believe? I see some guys use ATF, some use #10 hydraulic oil, some use Walmart or Amsoil synthetic gear oil and some pony up for the Arctic Cat Synthetic Gear oil. There's probably no right or wrong as long as oil lube is kept clean and changed frequently?

vdo1948 · Sep 19, 2010

Frosty, No one has responded regarding your daughter's M5 yet. I'm still riding an 05 and I think you'll see some differences between the 05 and your 09. The 05 only has a single plug and to drain and fill without removing the DD requires laying the sled in one side to drain and oin the other side to fill. PITA. I always remove it to drain and fill. Also uses much less oil. I think 3 oz versus 8 or 10 for your 09. That small amount of oil makes it even more imperative to do regular maintence!

KSH · Sep 19, 2010

Frostbite said:
It's interesting that Amsoil lists their series 2000 synthetic chaincase gear lube as a replacement for Synthetic ACT gearcase fluid. I wonder how Arctic Cat feels about that?

To be fair, they claim it is a replacement for all snowmobile brand gearcase lubes. So is lube much more universal than manufacturers would like us to believe? I see some guys use ATF, some use #10 hydraulic oil, some use Walmart or Amsoil synthetic gear oil and some pony up for the Arctic Cat Synthetic Gear oil. There's probably no right or wrong as long as oil lube is kept clean and changed frequently?

I use a full synthetic ATF fluid.
After each trip West I change the oil, so far I have not seen any thing that would make me want to split the drive.

As far as the Flush, I would pull the drive and give it a good cleaning before I used it.

White Rad · Sep 19, 2010

i'm still a fan of splitting the case for a full inspection, especially since its the off season. i've drained my oil and it looked great only to split the case and find a bearing about to spit a cage. its really just not much more work and you can really clean it out. I plan on doing all bearings and seals in hopes that a few oil changes will get me through this season. i would also check your brake housing bearings...

Frostbite · Sep 19, 2010

Thanks guys! That's great advice!

Now, if the cover just had some nutserts to accept the mount bolts, I'd split the case for sure. How do you fix it if you strip out a hole for the cover mount screws?

White Rad · Sep 19, 2010

Frostbite said:
Thanks guys! That's great advice!

Now, if the cover just had some nutserts to accept the mount bolts, I'd split the case for sure. How do you fix it if you strip out a hole for the cover mount screws?

i kept reading about this problem with stripping the case threads but after all my bad dd luck last year and having to split and re-assemble my drive countless times i never had a problem. careful when taking the screws out then get new ones they are cheap. i rarely use a torque wrench anymore but gasket mating surfaces are a good candidate! torque them to spec if your worried about overtightening. i remember a thread on here about how to drill and tap the holes is they get stripped but can't find it now...

silvester · Sep 19, 2010

What is the torque specs on the DD cover bolts

sledtahoe · Sep 20, 2010

not much

not much about 12 lbs..

White Rad · Sep 20, 2010

on the 07'-08' cases it is 11 ft-lbs and i think its even less for the 09'+ cases with the gasket

Frostbite · Sep 20, 2010

I still don't get why there is no rubber gasket (like most chain cases) on the diamond drive case cover?

When I split my case for the first time, half the paper gasket stuck to the case side and the other half stuck to the cover. Dang!

It seems like that would be a great after market product that I know I would love to have.

Coldfinger · Sep 20, 2010

I've been pondering the DD case inspection as well. I think I'll go with Amsoil on this one as I read somewhere that is who makes the DD oil in the first place.

Interesting tidbit I came across the other day - seems the Yammie Nytro chain case specs like 75wXX gear oil. Now that makes sense to me.

sledtahoe · Sep 21, 2010

no need

Frostbite said:
I still don't get why there is no rubber gasket (like most chain cases) on the diamond drive case cover?

When I split my case for the first time, half the paper gasket stuck to the case side and the other half stuck to the cover. Dang!

It seems like that would be a great after market product that I know I would love to have.

Use permenex gasket maker works better and doesnt cost much...

M.M. 700 · Sep 21, 2010

One other thing is that when you pull your DD cover while the DD is in the chassis. Sometimes (everytime for me) the DD cover will not "slap" back on to the DD case. You must losen the 16 mm bolt that is in the trackshaft, (use a long extension and go thru the trackshaft from the break caliper side) then install the DD cover to the case, the cover should "slap" onto the case (cover should make contact with the DD case), tigthen the cover bolts, then retighten the 16 mm bolt.

I Lossen the track tension some. Losen the 16 mm bolt, pull the cover. Then when done inspecting, install cover, retighten 16 mm bolt. Then snug up the track tension.

Do not pull the DD cover to the case by tightening the cover bolts...it will cause a bind with where the gears-bearings sit in the cover.

Seasonal Diamond Drive Maintenance Questions

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