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70# one side 110# on the other

yammi4ever

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AND hard starting, especially when warm--looks like I am tearing into the POO again,

Plugs had good color, but lots of crud under the color, never seen that before. Changed plugs and put on 50 miles or so with no improvement on starting, but this time plugs just look a bit too rich.

sled ran perfect last year, so i am pretty sure the fueling is spot on.

Not sure if rings on the mag side never never completely seated after last rebuild or wtf happened. Only has about 350 on sled since new jugs, rings, pistons..... Octane has always been kept high, and before starting this year I siphoned all old gas and put in ll100 and 92 50/50 before pulling the cord.

fluke??? Just dumb luck??? anything to check while I am tearing down, Hoping it is just rings and not the start of a burndown since it ran like this for two days (on a trip out west)

Hmmm, maybe i should put my nytro motor in this beast almost 4000 miles boosted and doesn't miss a beat
 

yammi4ever

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check your reeds , they can give low compression if broken.

Man I didn't want to hear that lol. They are a pita to get to

Could they possibly cause a 40 pound difference?

For what it is worth the reeds were put in new when the turbo was put on so they only have 400 to 500 miles

Thanks
 

powdrdaz

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Check your oil flow (oil cap). When your air box is out pull the oil line and see if the oil is running out. I rebuilt a 09 Dragon and it went down again on the 3rd ride. When I was putting the motor back in I noticed that there was no oil coming of the oil line when I was hooking it up. Loosened the led and it ran out. I ordered 4 new oil caps from Paase racing after that.
 

yammi4ever

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Check your oil flow (oil cap). When your air box is out pull the oil line and see if the oil is running out. I rebuilt a 09 Dragon and it went down again on the 3rd ride. When I was putting the motor back in I noticed that there was no oil coming of the oil line when I was hooking it up. Loosened the led and it ran out. I ordered 4 new oil caps from Paase racing after that.


Solved that issue before i even ran 1 mile on it. I bought the vented oil cap from someone on here when it was new.
 

yammi4ever

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check your reeds , they can give low compression if broken.

Been thinking about this, and I am by no means a two stroke expert, but i cannot for the life of me figure how a broken reed could lead to a compression change. Running issue yes, but a 40 pound compression difference??

Anyone else want to weigh in on this??

thanks
 
T

TurboMatt

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Been thinking about this, and I am by no means a two stroke expert, but i cannot for the life of me figure how a broken reed could lead to a compression change. Running issue yes, but a 40 pound compression difference??

Anyone else want to weigh in on this??

thanks

You are thinking correctly. It would not affect compression very much, if any
 

mtncat1

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it can. the purpose of reed valves is to allow compression to build before the intake port is closed giving the engine more compression , if a reed is bad it will run very poorly at idle and better at higher rpm . if reeds are good you will have to inspect the piston and cylinder. if i recall this was on a 12 and broken skirts are more likely on this model .
 

yammi4ever

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it can. the purpose of reed valves is to allow compression to build before the intake port is closed giving the engine more compression , if a reed is bad it will run very poorly at idle and better at higher rpm . if reeds are good you will have to inspect the piston and cylinder. if i recall this was on a 12 and broken skirts are more likely on this model .

Nope it's a '14 and when I rebuilt last time I went with Indy dans jugs which are supposed to correct this problem of broken skirts


These reeds don't have much time on them and sad to say it's easier to pull the head and jugs than get to them so I'm gonna have to be pretty convinced that they could be my problem.

Thanks for the opinion. Anyone else wanna weigh in before I go to wrenching.
 

mtncat1

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you can try and do a leakdown test but it's not that big of deal to pull the jugs . reed inspection another 10 minutes additional ,your spending more time asking for help than it would take to tear it down . but what do i know.
 

yammi4ever

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you can try and do a leakdown test but it's not that big of deal to pull the jugs . reed inspection another 10 minutes additional ,your spending more time asking for help than it would take to tear it down . but what do i know.

Obviously i am in no hurry to tear it down, 60 and no snow here and no trip planned in the near future.

Like i said, thanks for the opinion
 

snoballssnoglory

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it can. the purpose of reed valves is to allow compression to build before the intake port is closed giving the engine more compression , if a reed is bad it will run very poorly at idle and better at higher rpm . if reeds are good you will have to inspect the piston and cylinder. if i recall this was on a 12 and broken skirts are more likely on this model .



FYI And I'm self admittedly no crack mechanic but I've had broken reeds on both cat motor (2014) and axys.
Both sleds idled normally or near normal anyway. And did not run on the top end hardly at all. Wouldn't get over 6500rpms.


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