• Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

Some insight to no spark on m1000

tylersnowest

Member
Lifetime Membership
Jun 8, 2011
21
7
3
44
Weyburn, Saskatchewan, Canada
I currently bought a 2007 M1000. beautiful sled. Last winter at nipiwan it quit on the trail. wait 10 min start it, it would run for 2 minute and die. finally n spark at all. i searched forums to find that many people having the same problem but no real answers on any forum. so, i downloaded full servive manuals and went to work. we checked ever wire in the thing from tail light to headlight. nothing seemed to be wrong. finally we proceeded to test the stator. unplugged all the wires found the output diagram and still no power on any of them. mistake we made, stator puts out ac current not dc current. switched the multimeter to ac tadaaa! power on the lighting coil, injector coils, fuel pump coil, and ignition 2 coil. but no power on ignition 1 coil. 3.5 out of the 12-14v it should be. so problem solved right? well, we then thought what would fry the ignition coil? so we took the gas tank off and unbolted the spark plug coils from the tunnel and low and behold the wires running from the ecu to the sparkplug coils are run under the coils and tend to rub the cases of the wires. so any of u m1000 owners out there with no spark, PM me and i will help u with this problem if u dont understand what i have done. Stator from rmstator n ebay was 175 bucks. got to solder ur old harness on though. not a big deal. And for alll you guys like me who thought the stator works as one collective power output, you and i are wrong. the stator acually has 5 seperate outputs on it. 4 can work whil 1 cant. i always thought that once one coil burns out the whole thing dies. i stand corrected. the coils on the stator are all wired seperately. there are thick winded coils for the lighting system, coil for igniton "A" coil for ignition "B', coils for powereing the injectors and coils for powering the fuel pump. so check all the outputs. i have wiring schematics if u guys need. hope this helps.
 
Last edited:

WyoBoy1000

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 27, 2007
11,213
3,928
113
Red Lodge MT to North, CO
Good info, but to those that have a problem go through all the other basic test before you disassemble the whole sled. There are over 5 likely reasons for a loss of spark.
 

tylersnowest

Member
Lifetime Membership
Jun 8, 2011
21
7
3
44
Weyburn, Saskatchewan, Canada
yea there are simpler reasons for loss of spark, i agree. this post was intended for the guys like me who have tested everything and spent hours trying to figure it out looking on the internet and coming up with no answers. and the sled does not have to come apart to test the stator, you just have to unplug 4 plugs on the recoil side near the belly pan. cheers,
 

WyoBoy1000

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 27, 2007
11,213
3,928
113
Red Lodge MT to North, CO
I know what you where going for, but there are always new comers that jump past the easy stuff and tear it all apart. Just a head up. I usually bookmark this kind of thread in case someone or myself need it later on. Thanks for the info.
 
R
Jan 30, 2013
2
0
1
53
m1000 no spark

Hi i'm having the same problem,one minute spark and dash light next minute no spark or dash light,could this be stator?
 
D

diggerdown

Well-known member
Apr 25, 2004
3,452
677
113
Deer Park Wi.
Hi i'm having the same problem,one minute spark and dash light next minute no spark or dash light,could this be stator?

Doubt that it's the stator. Sounds more like a short in the main ground wire or ecu plug. You are looking at seperate coils on the stator and usually a stator is not intermintent.
One more thing about the original post, you need to test a stator using an ohm meter and it is best to do it with the stator is warm. Out put at start up is not a good test procedure. Stators usually lose out put as they heat up, wires build more resistance the hotter they get.
 
Last edited:
B
Feb 12, 2012
2
0
1
Doubt that it's the stator. Sounds more like a short in the main ground wire or ecu plug. You are looking at seperate coils on the stator and usually a stator is not intermintent.
One more thing about the original post, you need to test a stator using an ohm meter and it is best to do it with the stator is warm. Out put at start up is not a good test procedure. Stators usually lose out put as they heat up, wires build more resistance the hotter they get.
I have a 2007 m1000 with 2300 miles on it. SLP can, D&D wye pipe, stock pipe, and VFORCE 3 reeds. Ran great until it began to pop and sputter, gets worse with more throttle. I unplugged the handlebar wiring hoping it was the TPS but that didn't change anything. Still runs, but horribly. Checked wiring under seat and in engine bay but things look ok there. Any one have this problem? Any advice? Thanks!
 

Snowmaker

New member
Lifetime Membership
Feb 27, 2009
5
0
1
I have a 2007 m1000 with 2300 miles on it. SLP can, D&D wye pipe, stock pipe, and VFORCE 3 reeds. Ran great until it began to pop and sputter, gets worse with more throttle. I unplugged the handlebar wiring hoping it was the TPS but that didn't change anything. Still runs, but horribly. Checked wiring under seat and in engine bay but things look ok there. Any one have this problem? Any advice? Thanks!

if its not stator check compression or pull plugs or Y pipe and look in side motor
 
Premium Features