Tips for getting driven clutch apart

2XM3 · Dec 22, 2014

mountainhorse said:
As said above... a good amount of pinpoint heat and a quick pop with an impact gun or impact tool like this...even the cheap brands of impact-tool work ok for infrequent use. Like Dave said... you need to invest in a high quality T27 bit, regardless of the driver.

IMO, the Hand/Hammer impact drivers work the best....a sharp rap with a hammer after a bit of heat and VIOLA!! it's off. No cussin.

.

This is the exact kit I use, it works miracles

winter brew · Dec 22, 2014

Yep, I took Diamond Daves advice a year ago and got the Gold Snapon bit. they fit snug, one good whack with a hammer and I havnt had one cause any trouble since. Before that it was stocking new bolts and drilling half of them out.....they do drill easy and once the head is off the threaded portion comes right out, meaning there is no loctite being used, it's just the friction of the tapered head to the helix taper.

joetroop30 · Aug 17, 2015

Sled is a 2012 Pro. I went to take apart the driven clutch to change the spring and I can't for the life of me get the 4 torx screws out of the back of the clutch. I've tried heating them up with a torch and even using my hand impact wrench (the kind you hit with a hammer). The things just won't come loose.

I haven't screwed up any of the heads on the torx screws-yet-but I'm starting to get frustrated with trying to get those screws out. How much threadlocker did they put on those things?? Any suggestions or helpful hints would be appreciated.

Teth-Air · Aug 17, 2015

joetroop30 said:
Sled is a 2012 Pro. I went to take apart the driven clutch to change the spring and I can't for the life of me get the 4 torx screws out of the back of the clutch. I've tried heating them up with a torch and even using my hand impact wrench (the kind you hit with a hammer). The things just won't come loose.

I haven't screwed up any of the heads on the torx screws-yet-but I'm starting to get frustrated with trying to get those screws out. How much threadlocker did they put on those things?? Any suggestions or helpful hints would be appreciated.

Sounds like you are doing it right. I had a real tight one and had to go the next size up on the torx bit as the screw heads were rough, I hammered the bit in and it worked. I'm guessing from memory they are a 27 and I used a 30 torx.

joetroop30 · Aug 17, 2015

Yeah I'm using a 27, a 25 is a little loose in the heads. I'm almost thinking I need to get out an impact gun and take it to those things.

rowe · Aug 17, 2015

When I did mine this winter I just used a small propane torch and held the torch on a screw for a few minutes straight then used a cordless impact and they came right out. If it doesn't start coming out right away then keep applying heat to melt the loctite that is on from the factory

Wheel House Motorsports · Aug 17, 2015

Don't heat the screw, heat the aluminum around it. Lots of heat, and an electric impact. They are in really good. I have snapped off a few T27's doing them. They are some of my least favorite bolts to get out.

Dirty Steve · Aug 17, 2015

I have had better luck using a hammer drive impact and a little heat than I have using an electric impact. Definitely use a T27 Torx bit. I bought a box of Torx Plus screwsand 2 bits from MCMASTER CARR and replaced my oem bolts.

The Torx Plus have a little more grip.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

joetroop30 · Aug 17, 2015

I guess I'll give it another shot with the cordless impact wrench and a little more heat from the propane torch. Thanks.

likkerpig · Aug 18, 2015

I broke like 3 torx bits and gave up. Took it to the local dealer, 20 bucks plus a few new screws, and it was done. Might be worth making a call if it's convenient.

mountainhorse · Aug 19, 2015

I've merged this thread with a previous one... LOTS of great info here... Diamond Dave has some great input as do others.

Go back and re-read from the first post... lots of good info on tools, fasteners etc.... with links.

.

.

Reg2view · Aug 19, 2015

Hammer impact, some heat, and GOOD T-27s have worked best for me. Had a few stubborn ones when they've never been removed before on new sleds. The heads can be drilled off if need be, use a reverse bit if so inclined. No need to locktite or overtighten them on reinstall, either.

joetroop30 · Aug 19, 2015

finally got them out

I heated them up with a torch and used a cordless impact wrench with a T27 bit and they finally came out, and I didn't even mess up any of the heads in the process. But I have to say-what is the point of Polaris putting those things in there that tight?? My god that was a pain!

Reg2view · Aug 19, 2015

I'm sure those are pre-assembled by Team and arrive at the line like that. Is it a Team or Polaris spec, dunno. I've never seen a loose one myself, some have issues getting them out, others not. My personal sleds - 11, none. 13 one. 14 one. I've seen friends with two or more that were buggars. Never had issues after they've been out once.

northstarrick · Aug 30, 2015

these heat tighten. do not use loc-tite they never come loose. if you don't have a torque wrench then only use a 1/4 drive ratchet to tighten them. to get stubborn ones out. use a good torx socket using a good ball pin hammer hit the socket pretty good. heat the alum. around the screw. not the screw. heating the screw might loosen the loc-tite but expands the screw. very bad. unless you let it cool or throw water on it. (this works also) mig welding a nut right on top of the torx screw, welding down in the middle of the nut to the torx screw will get any one of these out period. I work on 160 sleds a year. most have team driven. I have only drilled a hand full out. that was before the welder. now I never drill them out. and never ruined one helix.-.

mountainhorse · Dec 6, 2016

TTT...Best, Read from 1st post in the first page.

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simnil · Dec 7, 2016

I dont know about you but I am extremely careful/reluctant to put my impact gun to anything that's not connected to a nut, (that I can get to), on the back side. Guessing the manual type you hit with a hammer is a bit less "dangerous".
One of the first things the old guys at the truck work shop I started my working career at told me was to NEVER use the impact gun to loosen bolts threaded into anything but loose nuts. The impact guns are very effective at snapping bolts, and the impact speed makes the bolts more brittle. (as all materials will behave when subjected to rapid bending/stretching/twisting)

I use a suitable punch, that precisely bottoms in the torx head, and give the bolt a few good whacks with the hammer. This tends to loosen the magic bond that seems to form between the chamfered bolt hed and the countersunk hole in the helix.
I then take a torx bit and the ratchet socket wrench and slooowwwlllyyyy apply force. If it has not come loose when I get nervous I apply heat and start over with the punch/hammer wrench.
I never apply new thread locking fluid, and I have never ever had one of those bolts come loose.

CROW · Feb 4, 2017

CROW said:
Think these would hold up better?

http://www.pesidaho.com/shop/titanium-secondary-clutch-kit-polaris

It looks like this is no longer a good website, does anyone have another source?

LoudHandle · Feb 4, 2017

CROW said:
It looks like this is no longer a good website, does anyone have another source?

He is working at Zollinger Racing now, some of his products transferred over, however I'm not sure about those.

Tips for getting driven clutch apart

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