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What to look for in buying a used 2011 M1000?

TheKraken

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Sorry if this is the wrong forum..I have been out of sledding for quite awhile, looking to get back into into the sport. I'm looking at '07-2011 machines and after reading about dd failures and such I was hoping someone could give me a few pointers and any problem areas I should look for on the m series sleds. Thanks in advance for taking the time to reply!

FYI- A little about myself. I'm 57 and weigh 230 and probably will mostly trail ride/Lake Wenatchee/Cle Elum with an occasional off trail deep snow/Mt Baker.
 

summ8rmk

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07-08 have reverse in the diamond drive.
09-11 have reverse in the engine.
Engine reverse is better.
Arctic Cat put a single row bearing and a spacer in place of the double row bearing that BDX designed the drive to use.
If it hasn't been done, put in the double row bearing and change the oil once per season.
10-11 have a tall seat. 07-09 need a newer seat or boss seat to make it comfy on the trail.

09-11 have the powerclaw track. 07-08 have the slippery challenger track.

All prone to sloppy steering.
Check the base of the steering post at the tunnel. Should have a brace or repair job.
They all will eventually crack the tunnel there. (I recomend M-rite support for tunnel)
Canada sled parts or BDX steering bushing upgrade for the post.

Gas tank cracks at the base of the threads where cap screws on.
Take a hot iron (wood burner/soldering iron) and melt the plastic back together.

May sound like a lot but its really not.

I loved my Mseries for 4,000 miles

 

boondocker97

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summ8rmk hit most of the high points. 2009 was a big drop in weight off the chassis so 2009-2011 would be my range if I was looking. 2011 got a little better shock valving.

On the diamond drive not all sleds will accept the double row bearing straight away. Some it fits fine and others you have to cut 0.050" off the end of the track shaft or the shoulder of the gear. If the cover goes on flush in the sled with the driveshaft in place it's fine. If the cover doesn't want to sit quite flush it's not. The 2009 M1000 was ok the 2011 M8 was not in our stable.

Check for torn motor mounts. If the sled is clutched aggressively it will eat them. Or if it has 1000 miles or more they could be torn from normal use.

On M sleds I'm looking at I always pry the rubber block out from between the motor mount and diamond drive to check for a fatigue crack in the bulkhead.

Pull the belt and check that the rollers in the spider are free and spin smooth. If it's got 2000 or more miles both clutches probably should be replaced. Spider and rollers are weak point in the primary and the movable sheave bushing in the secondary wears out and binds up under load.

Unless you like to mod and tinker a 2010-2011 M8 with the HO motor is a better sled. Almost as much power and way lighter in the front end. With a few mods the 1000 picks up 25hp and pulls really hard, but you have to watch EGTs, add motor mounts, and will be more tired at the end of the day.
 

kidwoo

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What to look for in buying a used 2011 M1000?


An M8 sticker on the side and an embossed head on the motor that reads "800"

Those were the best M1000s made.
 
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