2009 m8 Turbo clutching

ippielb · Nov 20, 2015

I have a 2009 M8 motor in my sled, it has a chaincase not a diamond drive, just got back from revy, sled would only rev 7200rpm, and make 4 pounds of boost. Haven't had time to rip apart the clutches, but what should i be running for weights, springs, and helix? I want something with a soft engagement to help prevent trenching.

Polarisrocks · Nov 20, 2015

Can you post a pic of the chaincase in a m chassis??

d1100t · Nov 21, 2015

2009 turbo

I think he has the 09 motor in a different chassis.
There need to be more info in the first post.

ippielb · Nov 21, 2015

Sorry yes, the m8 motor is in a 2010 SnoPro Chassis, there is a chaincase in the sled, so it runs a torsion secondary clutch.

kiliki · Nov 21, 2015

pictures please

ippielb · Nov 21, 2015

mk2g60 · Nov 22, 2015

ippielb said:

think they wanted to see under the hood.....

WyoBoy1000 · Nov 23, 2015

Most pull I've seen is with MDS weights. They load hard and pull.

But if your only hitting 4lbs can you turn it up. Is this a new issue or is this your first test.
You can just turn it up until it hits rpm

ippielb · Nov 23, 2015

WyoBoy1000 said:
Most pull I've seen is with MDS weights. They load hard and pull.

But if your only hitting 4lbs can you turn it up. Is this a new issue or is this your first test.
You can just turn it up until it hits rpm

This was my first time taking this sled to the mountains and running it in elevation. The aerochargers run off of a spring and shim, but i believe i can put on a mechanical bleeder and bleed off some pressure to increase the boost. I`ll have to check though. I have a set of fett brothers heavy hitter weights i can load up how i want if anyone could give pointers on how to load them.

WyoBoy1000 · Nov 23, 2015

@ 10k you can run up to 6-7lbs of boost on 91 octane. I bet once you get there it will work out better.

ippielb · Nov 24, 2015

WyoBoy1000 said:
@ 10k you can run up to 6-7lbs of boost on 91 octane. I bet once you get there it will work out better.

I'm running 4000-7500 feet. I'm fine with running av gas, it's a hell of a lot cheaper then race gas. So basically you recommend turning up the boost until I get my max rpm back?

One other thing I had was a really boggy lower end, when a guy would be idling and mash the throttle wide open it would just sit there wouldn't move. Just bog. But if you feathered it in you could get it to rip.

I bought this sled built like this so it's new to me. First time out. I need to change the intake to come up out of the hood because right now it's probably sucking hot air where it is.

https://vimeo.com/146802699

M7 Aerocharger Boosted · Dec 5, 2015

Aerocharger Tuning

First call Aerocharger and purchase a 7 or 8 psi spring for the controller. You can run up to 10psi at 8000+ altitude on 100% 100LL. Adjusting fuel controller on all fuel settings, look up your brand for proper settings and procedures. Mine was so rich it wouldn't rev-up either until I adjusted all fuel settings. Now it just rips. Once you have completed the above two items; adjust your Aerocharger set screw on the bottom of the boost controller to achieve the fastest spool up response from a dead stop to full throttle. The engine RPM's should come up on power smoothly without a bog or lag and start boosting even at minimal throttle. Don't let the snowmobile idle between full throttle pulls ( Arctic Cats load up with fuel and oil idleing) Shut off or varry throttle continuously when stopped for long periods.
Fuel & Altitude & Boost & clutching must match!

Hardass · Dec 7, 2015

@4/6500 im running mds in the primary 82 g i beleive with a 36/42 helix Stock head with three dagrees advance on timing no retarder.I run about 35%110 with the rest 91 pump. No intercooler 9/10 psi But i have a garrett turbo so theres a difference there.

ippielb · Dec 12, 2015

I was thinking about adding a mechanical boost controller bleeder. So i can run a low pressure spring and just have the ability to turn it up when i want. I have a feeling i need to adjust the boost controller screw so it starts boosting faster. I'm fine with sacrificing some high end power to get in boost faster. I have a feeling i'm really loading up on fuel when i'm idling. Because when i stab the throttle from idling it don't even go anywhere.

ippielb · Jan 10, 2016

Found a ripped bellow and the spring on the other bellow was off, so basically the power valves were wide open and leaking pressure and exhuast out, probably not functioning the power valves at all. STM Bellow power valves.

I also removed the restrictive cone filter, and built myself a cold air intake, now i just need to get it made out of aluminum tubing to make it lighter and less restrictions. I used white PVC plumbing pieces and the rubber connectors.

Haven't checked my weights yet as they are the adjustable ones with screw in weights.

BigAir · Jan 10, 2016

Hopefully you have the 66 aero not the 53? The 53 is limited to pretty low boost on an 800.

ippielb · Jan 10, 2016

BigAir said:
Hopefully you have the 66 aero not the 53? The 53 is limited to pretty low boost on an 800.

have a 66 on this one, the 53 series on my firecat for low boost. Already talked to aerocharger, the 53 series are limited to 7psi on the 800cc, or risk overspeeding the turbo.

Here's pictures of what i have done.

ippielb · Feb 13, 2016

Went for another rip, was getting 7,700rpm at 8.4lbs now, weights were cpc 75g adjustable set to 78g, I have a gold with white mark spring, and in my team secondary I have a 44-50-36 or 42-48-36, has those two markings, unfamiliar with team clutches, also says

11/01/11 11:51
CUSTOM
RAPID REACTION tm
TWIN TRAX tm helix

I now put in some thunder products or fett bros heavy hitter adjustable weights, weighted to 74g. To try and bring my rpm to 8,200.

This is all for 4,000-7,500 feet.

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2009 m8 Turbo clutching

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