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>>>Official Power Commander V Thread<<< Polaris 800 C.F.I.'s

Kraven

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SLP and PC-5

hey Harry I think Kraven told me that the PCV didn't change purformance much with the SLP set up do you feel it helped more then first thought?

Please keep in mind that was based on the early (50* warm weather) dyno test.

On that dyno-test, 12:1 A/F with SLP single pipe set-up, it didn't make any more power when LEANED out further, but once again, that was in 50* Temps.
 

800poodragon

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Please keep in mind that was based on the early (50* warm weather) dyno test.

On that dyno-test, 12:1 A/F with SLP single pipe set-up, it didn't make any more power when LEANED out further, but once again, that was in 50* Temps.

So do you think the PC5 is going to make much of a difference in the colder temps when running the SLP single?
 

harrysmith500

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science tells me that it will... I just like setting my sled up like I have my fuel injected suzuki duner set up.

My stock LTR-450 made 36 horsepower stock, so I did a Dasa Exhaust, Fuel ATV intake, and BoonDockers EFI controller she made 46 horse power.

Once I get my auto tune working "I Know" that my pipe will add more power than just having a PC V...... I hope :)
 
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scarter

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The 02 sensor is heated. As far as I know you, have to keep it plugged in with power going to it to keep the sensor from fouling. This is why wide band 02 sensors need to warm up before you start the engine.


bamfm7 is right leaving the O2 sensor in the pipe without power to it is the worst thing you can do to a O2 sensor.
 

Kraven

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pc 5 slp single

So do you think the PC5 is going to make much of a difference in the colder temps when running the SLP single?

DYNOTECH JIM and BMP both reported that the stock E.C.U. Causes the fuel to enrich a LOT at temps below 30* F.

Jim should have those results posted any day now.

In cold weather testing last week the PC-5 ALONE brought the stock D-8 from 144 h.p. to 154 h.p. with the stock pipe.
 

cascadesnowjunky

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How does the ecu know the ambient temp, where does it get its reading from. I have tried many different types of clutching changes and connot get rpms, maybe its so pig rich on top it dont make any power. I would sure like to figure it out, because this $h!t is getting old.
 

MOWER800

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How does the ecu know the ambient temp, where does it get its reading from. I have tried many different types of clutching changes and connot get rpms, maybe its so pig rich on top it dont make any power. I would sure like to figure it out, because this $h!t is getting old.

I had the same issues with mine and this year I changed my fuel filter and rpms are up 2 to 300 more
 

Kraven

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Ambient air temp sensor

How does the ecu know the ambient temp, where does it get its reading from. I have tried many different types of clutching changes and connot get rpms, maybe its so pig rich on top it dont make any power. I would sure like to figure it out, because this $h!t is getting old.

Cascade,

On the bold,

Temp sesnor is inside the air box.

If you don't have a fuel controller, yes you're probably PIG RICH, what do the plugs and piston wash look like??? Let that be your guide.
 
Last edited:
D
Dec 10, 2009
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its' so hard to tell if how much the PC V helped as I haven't been able to compare it to another stock D8 yet.

I can't get my Auto Tune to show what it trims off of my map. I need to check all my wiring and make sure it every wire is pluged in the right hole.

My sled runs soooooo good though. It's awesome.
Did you get your auto tune to give you a map yet? Can we see it ? Thanks
 

Rick!

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its' so hard to tell if how much the PC V helped as I haven't been able to compare it to another stock D8 yet.

I can't get my Auto Tune to show what it trims off of my map. I need to check all my wiring and make sure it every wire is pluged in the right hole.

My sled runs soooooo good though. It's awesome.


The sequence that works for me is:

1. Hook up a laptop and "Get Map" from the PC.
2. Enable autotune from the toolbar which then adds two more tables to the map file. They will be the Target AFR and Trim Table.
3. Fill in all the Target AFR values in the cells and save the map set.
4. Send this map set to the PC V with "Send Map".
5. Go run around for 20-40 minutes making sure you spend enough time at WOT.
6. Shut the engine off and reconnect the laptop.
7. Hit "Get Map" to retrieve the map set from the PC V and view the trim table; make sure that some values have changed.
8. Save this map set.
9. Now go up to the tool bar and go into Map Tools and select "Accept all Trims." The trims are now translated into the base map and the trim table is cleared. Nothing has changed in the PC V so if you mess this up, just hit "Get Map" again and start Step 7 over .
9. Hit "Send Map" to load the trimmed map back into the PC V and save the map with a new file name.
10. Uncheck the "Enable Autotune" box in the Power Commander Tools>Configure>Autotune.

It's pretty interesting comparing the trim table with the target AFR table - there are a few spots that are richened like crazy like 40% and 6500 rpms.

Ride it like you stole it.

Notes:
The Autotune Trims will change with clutching so if you change things around it would make sense to make another map.
The airbox vibrates a bunch and my temp sensor wire came out of the PC V and the CAN connector for the LCD backs out of my WB 2 (Autotune) box. I'll be remounting both onto the electrical center cover.
 
Last edited:

AndrettiDog

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its' so hard to tell if how much the PC V helped as I haven't been able to compare it to another stock D8 yet.

I can't get my Auto Tune to show what it trims off of my map. I need to check all my wiring and make sure it every wire is pluged in the right hole.

My sled runs soooooo good though. It's awesome.

Same thing here. I have 50 miles on my 09 D8 with the update. I have the PCV on it from DynoTech. The sled ripped! I don't know if I got 155 HP or not, but the sled pulled 8250 RPM's and bogged a couple times when I started then worked itself out well (maybe the PCV changing fuel?). It's hard to compare, but I'm happy with the way the sled ran.
 
G
Jan 21, 2008
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The sequence that works for me is:

1. Hook up a laptop and "Get Map" from the PC.
2. Enable autotune from the toolbar which then adds two more tables to the map file. They will be the Target AFR and Trim Table.
3. Fill in all the Target AFR values in the cells and save the map set.
4. Send this map set to the PC V with "Send Map".
5. Go run around for 20-40 minutes making sure you spend enough time at WOT.
6. Shut the engine off and reconnect the laptop.
7. Hit "Get Map" to retrieve the map set from the PC V and view the trim table; make sure that some values have changed.
8. Save this map set.
9. Now go up to the tool bar and go into Map Tools and select "Accept all Trims." The trims are now translated into the base map and the trim table is cleared. Nothing has changed in the PC V so if you mess this up, just hit "Get Map" again and start Step 7 over .
9. Hit "Send Map" to load the trimmed map back into the PC V and save the map with a new file name.
10. Uncheck the "Enable Autotune" box in the Power Commander Tools>Configure>Autotune.

It's pretty interesting comparing the trim table with the target AFR table - there are a few spots that are richened like crazy like 40% and 6500 rpms.

Ride it like you stole it.

Notes:
The Autotune Trims will change with clutching so if you change things around it would make sense to make another map.
The airbox vibrates a bunch and my temp sensor wire came out of the PC V and the CAN connector for the LCD backs out of my WB 2 (Autotune) box. I'll be remounting both onto the electrical center cover.


The trimmed map is now


What did you set your A/F ratios at? Im gonna get mine on the go soon and would like to know what would be a good starting point. 12.1:1, 12.5:1 or maybe 12:1. Did u enter a map at the beginning or just use the one with all zeros and set the A/F ratio and go from there?
 

Rick!

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What did you set your A/F ratios at? Im gonna get mine on the go soon and would like to know what would be a good starting point. 12.1:1, 12.5:1 or maybe 12:1. Did u enter a map at the beginning or just use the one with all zeros and set the A/F ratio and go from there?

Here is an example Target AFR table. I generated it after watching my AFR on a WideBand 2 with an LCD for about a week.

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/YOm3ybRlv9VqFjCz4htuGA?feat=directlink

Pay attention to how it runs at idle and low speeds. It may not run as you like and the stock part of the map might be better here. So far, I've found if you put in zeros everywhere under like 3250 that the running quality is pretty decent as Polaris calibrates them pretty crisp in this range.
 

turbo RMK

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Hey I have a 800 dragon and i just installed cpi twins and with the cheap control box that it comes with i can only add fuel which is pointless because it runs a little to rich in stock mode so i was thinking of getting a pc 3 or pc 5 how well does the auto tune work when you have twins or would i be better off just getting a pc3 and just getting AFR guages and tune my self is there a big difference between the pc 3 and pc 5 I have good torque and rpm untill i hit WOT and then it seems dull and boggy but if i back off the thottle a little then it sounds crisp and rockets at about 8400 rpm between 3/4-7/8 thottle
 

CHARIOT OF DOOM

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Hey I have a 800 dragon and i just installed cpi twins and with the cheap control box that it comes with i can only add fuel which is pointless because it runs a little to rich in stock mode so i was thinking of getting a pc 3 or pc 5 how well does the auto tune work when you have twins or would i be better off just getting a pc3 and just getting AFR guages and tune my self is there a big difference between the pc 3 and pc 5 I have good torque and rpm untill i hit WOT and then it seems dull and boggy but if i back off the thottle a little then it sounds crisp and rockets at about 8400 rpm between 3/4-7/8 thottle

i have same setup cpi twins. but did not get the junk beta box. got pc 5 got a map from jim at dynotech leaned it out little and i have same problem!! good to 3/4 throttle then loses rpm. but i cant hit over 7800 rpm on a hill!! so i bought the auto tune and hope it makes a better map. how do you get 8400?? you have the beta box? i have stock clutching with 60 gram weights
 
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scarter

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i have same setup cpi twins. but did not get the junk beta box. got pc 5 got a map from jim at dynotech leaned it out little and i have same problem!! good to 3/4 throttle then loses rpm. but i cant hit over 7800 rpm on a hill!! so i bought the auto tune and hope it makes a better map. how do you get 8400?? you have the beta box? i have stock clutching with 60 gram weights


Have you tried the Autotune yet? What did the 1st map you tried look like? Even as rich as the dragon is if you are running twins I think you will have to add some fuel at WOT.

I just want to help you out if I can. I work at dynojet doing testing on the snowmobile Power Commanders. My personal sled is a 2005 M7 with SLP twins and I love the sled. The SLP twins for the M7 had a reputation of being hard to tune but I built a map last year for the PC III that works awesome.
 
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