supreme tool 11" driven in crossfire

has anyone else installed one of these in a crossfire?

i already trimmed the rear angle bracket to accomodate shiftout.

clutch runs close to bottom of pan and rear vertcal footwell plate. has anybody had to alter the belly pan and/or rear footwell brace using the XS809 belt....it is the shortest of those suggested by Mark to use?

have not had a chance to run yet....not enough snow.

mark suggested i run the AC green driven spring, 50 degree helix, and white? EPI spring which is 125/280 for an engagement around 3800.

i run mostly at <3000' and mark said to run cam weights about 71 g (4 g less than stock).

the documentation that mark sends with the clutch states that it will fit crossfire with some modifications (that's ok). the section on offset, though, is way off. there is simply NO WAY that the offset specified in the docs will work. mark said to run clutch with the three supplied shim washers and the three OEM shim washers.

anybody figure out correct offset? DonoBB wrote a thread about letting clutch float (w/o washers) and run machine to see where clutch will end up. Will probably try that.

somebody also said they moved motor (towards PTO side) using washers on the motor mounts. can't remember what machine but not sure how this would work with intake, exhaust, etc.

the only other thing would be setting deflection. very difficult to do if you need to decrease/increase deflection. thinking of using a shim or something between roller cover and supplied nut. that way if you need to tighten/loosen you can turn nut with pliers and the washer would be a sliding surface for the nut against the roller cover. the reason is to be able to put clutch on machine you have to do it with the belt on both clutches and then set deflection.

anybody know the size of the stock primary.

thanx.

pinit said:

I found a few things that Mark did not tell me that need to be done to my m7 before I could ride it. Which if I had help of others would have destroyed my 500.00 clutch

1 need to trim clutch cover as it will hit at full shift
2 needed to trim or as i did remove the brace you are talking about lot cleaner to just remove it drill the rivits you can get to and take a chisel to the other comes right out. thn zip tie speedo cable to foot rest area
3 I could not get the clutch allined to the spects that came with the instruction which in my opinion is a piss poor way to alline a clutch any how, so I went to the cat dealer and borrowed his clutch allinment tool for the m series. Set it to factory seetings seems to be working so far. No black marks on shives and shifts all the way out.( I'm running this on a turbo m7 so if the clutches were not lined up good my blet would not last long ) feel free to pm me if you have any other conserns will help all I can. Rodger

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agreed on the instructions part. called mark two times about it and he said he would look into it but never did get a reply.

clutch is a very nice piece of hardware though. the bracket was pretty easy to file to allow shift out...assuming what mark said is correct to use the three gold shims and three shims he provides with clutch.

what are you using for primary spring and weights?

i've read that the M has more clearance to the rear footwell brace than the crossfire. on mine the clutch itself is probably 1/4" from that brace.

pinit said:

I forgot I also went to a 07 bellyside panel for more clearence and thicker clutch guard gave me alot more room Rodger

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how do you set deflection? do you use a pair of channel locks on the nut? was thinking of putting a shim behind the bolt to act as a sliding surface.