900 fuel problems

sloan188 · Jan 5, 2015

Pretty sure it was 0.13 ohms...It's been a while since I've checked one but I don't recall it being incorrect...It also makes sense from an electronics perspective because the charge coil is basically a coil of wire which would just have the resistance of the wire length (i.e., basically a short)...

I seem to recall that I had one that was outside spec (resistance was too high) once and still working but it did fail eventually.

polrmk900 · Jan 6, 2015

i checked it and the reading on the yellow wires are 1.0, 0.9 and 0.9

sloan188 · Jan 6, 2015

This aligns well with your problem if all other readings are within spec as the yellow wires are where you get your power from (or in your case don't) and as can be seen from the test the coils are powered by other connections so that explains why you have spark.

It looks alot like you have a bad winding...I assume you are checking from the yellow connector pins. Try checking at the stator armature itself (where the yellow wires are soldered onto the stator ring that the windings are wrapped around) and see if you get the same readings... You may have to dig to be able to make contact with the meter probe.

polrmk900 · Jan 6, 2015

yea same readings

sloan188 · Jan 7, 2015

Did you ever check the VR? You could always run three wires from the stator charge pins (Yellow); connect everything back up, run the sled with a battery and check for ac voltage output across the 3 phases of the stator....

polrmk900 · Jan 7, 2015

yes i check the vr all good......how do i run the sled with a battery

polrmk900 · Jan 8, 2015

will the higher readings on my stator cause the skidoo not to start up?

sloan188 · Jan 8, 2015

Wrt the battery, try post 4 in this thread...:becky:
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=388557

Wrt whether or not the stator readings are ok, I'm not entirely sure but I don't recall my readings being any different than the manual so I tend to think that they might....particularly since that are about 5 - 10 times out of spec...Maybe someone else can chime in here...

I would think that the stator should put AC voltage out even if you pull the engine over so you may want to check the 3 phases while pulling the engine over. I would expect to see an AC voltage that is greater than 14.5 V...probably as much as 80 VAC.

I would also expect that you should see DC voltage output from the VR when pulling the engine over.

polrmk900 · Jan 8, 2015

that link is to my post on this thread the battery didnt really run the skidoo its just keep the pump goin forcing fuel threw no gauges lit up

sloan188 · Jan 8, 2015

polrmk900 said:
that link is to my post on this thread the battery didnt really run the skidoo its just keep the pump goin forcing fuel threw no gauges lit up

I know; thought was to connect the battery to power the pump allowing the sled to run so that you could measure the stator/VR output....same can probably be accomplished by measuring output while pulling the sled over....

polrmk900 · Jan 9, 2015

i put a stator and a vr on her and still no difference getting annoyed now lol

sloan188 · Jan 9, 2015

Odd...You have confirmed the chassis ground, the TORS by unplugging the kill switch, the fuel pump, the fuel pump connection, changed stator, changed VR, capacitor....I think there are only wires and ECU left in the circuit....

What color are the wires coming out of the other side of the stator plug with the yellow wires in it? Orange? Are there 2 orange wires coming out of the connector with no corresponding pin on the stator side?

Try plugging the connector together and then check the resistance from a yellow wire from the back of the connector to the corresponding wire on the back of the other connector (obviously you should get more or less zero)....I'm really grasping at straws here as I had a brake light problem that due to corroded connectors (the orange ones without a corresponding pin/socket on the stator side)...

polrmk900 · Jan 9, 2015

both sides of the connector as three yellow wires

sloan188 · Jan 9, 2015

Yeah..I just checked the wiring diagram and it is the VR connector that I had my problems and that is still in your circuit so you might want to check the connections there for continuity.

It looks like the fuel pump power coming from the VR actually gets to the Fuel pump by common connection at pin 30 of the chassis relay (black box on main wiring harness somewhere around the recoil); how do the wires look over there?

polrmk900 · Jan 9, 2015

all the wires in the relay looks good

polrmk900 · Jan 9, 2015

would a lil bit of rust on the outside of the flywheel cause any problems

sloan188 · Jan 9, 2015

OK...on the ECU plug (sled side), you will see a bunch of red wires; 3 go to 1 pin and 2 go to the pin adjacent to it on the next row. Use the meter to make sure that the ones together (group of 2 and group of 3) are effectively shorted (check from the back of the connector). The orange wires with no corresponding pins on the other connector are the wires I had continuity issues with on my brakes due to connector corrosion...the connectors are just sandwiched together in the connector....If you look inside, you can see barbs on the pins that when depressed will allow you to take the pin out, clean with sandpaper and then re-install.

edit: In fact the, group of 2 and group of 3 should be effectively shorted as well due to common connection to chassis relay at pin 30....check this too.

At the relay, there should be 3 red wires; one by itself and two together...make sure e 2 together are effectively shorted.

polrmk900 · Jan 9, 2015

clean it all up still no change and i checked thou wires and they do show resistance how do u check to see if they shorted

sloan188 · Jan 9, 2015

polrmk900 said:
would a lil bit of rust on the outside of the flywheel cause any problems

No...

sloan188 · Jan 9, 2015

polrmk900 said:
clean it all up still no change and i checked thou wires and they do show resistance how do u check to see if they shorted

low resistance....close to zero.

900 fuel problems

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